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I just wanted to thank the original poster for taking the extra time to take all of these pics and posting it on here for us all to see!! I just removed my 1zz-fe engine which has met death due to the oil consumption issue at 97k miles.. I alternated back and forth between using the car manual and your pics. They came in quite helpful!!


Here's the finished result:

 

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I just wanted to thank the original poster for taking the extra time to take all of these pics and posting it on here for us all to see!! I just removed my 1zz-fe engine which has met death due to the oil consumption issue at 97k miles.. I alternated back and forth between using the car manual and your pics. They came in quite helpful!!

wait. what? 1zz has a oil issue at 97k? how do i prevent this issue on a 1zz with 47k miles? WHAT DO?
 

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Just about to take a crack at this. Wish me luck. First engine I've pulled. Thankfully I don't need to put one back in, just parting out :)
 

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I just started this engine swap project 3 weeks ago when the "new" 1zz engine arrived at my house. Thanks to Smaay, Boosted2.0, and this forum its going well.

I need to get some new axle nuts for replacement, anyone have some good suggestions on where to get these? Has anyone found any axle nuts that don't have detents but are still compatible with the GT axle? (In the event I have to take out the axle later I don't want to deal with those detents if I don't have to)
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
new nuts dont have them. when i replace the axle nut, i dont pound in a new dent either. i put some blue locktite on the threads and call it a day
 

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I am just on the verge of getting the engine out of the car, everything has been going great thanks to Smaay and this guide.

I think I may have pulled too hard on the driver's side axle. A light brown fluid came out of the boot and the boot is out of the housing. It this something I can easily put back together? Or do I need to get a new axle?

Also is there any good way to remove the 12mm bolt behind the line on the AC Compressor, I just about stripped the head yesterday with a 12-point wrench. I was considering removing the alternator to get better access to the AC compressor, but the alternator has a 14mm bolt that is just as hard to get to.

Any suggestions?

Thanks, MCS
 

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The brown fluid is grease from the CV boot. You should repack it with fresh grease.
My tips:
1) To get the driver's side axle out, wrap a short, small diameter chain in behind the cv housing right at the transaxle. Bolt the chain ends together so it forms a loop. Slide a 5 lb. hammer into the chain loop, then twist the loop once around the big end of the hammer and around the back of cv housing of the axle. Pull the hammer along the axle with a couple of sharp tugs and the axle will pop out.
2) The passenger side axle on Canadian cars is a bear to get out as the bearing support halves rust together. Once you take the two bolts out, you may have to use torch heat on the bearing support, then use a flat chisel and hammer to split the halves and release the bearing and axle.
3) On the 2ZZ, if you break the belt tensioner wrench boss off (or can't get a 19mm wrench on it), you can use a long bar and a floor jack to pry up against the tensioner and release the belt. No wrench needed.
4) The two lines on the power steering pump are accessible if you want to unbolt them and leave the pump on the motor. Drain the lines first.
5) Unbolting the bottom of both the front and rear engine mounts makes them easier to move around and bind less when lifting out the motor.
6) A 3" wide ratchet strap can be used to lift the assembly out if you don't have the ducky factory lift parts. Just make sure it's placed properly and the ratchet is seated and locked.
Hope this helps.
Dentman
 

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Thanks to Smaay and many others I did this successfully and I am back on the road in my celica. Just chasing some minor sensor failures now. :) Thank you all again!
 

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Great Post! you make it look easy... I am almost tempted to take a shot at this myself.
Very informative, instructive and your pictures say alot, without even asking...
I am having my mechanic do the swap this week, 01'celica gt 1zz to a 03'celica gt 1zz
because of the oil burning issue with the piston rings.
But i can save 5-6 bucks doing it myself, thats a whole mod or investment on one...
I have a lift and most common tools for smaller jobs, i dont think i saw anything i was incapable of... but i may be over my head here...? The most ive done is change my own oil and spark plugs :p i work in a heavy duty equipment shop (parts guy) but have access to tools and the knowledge of 2 or 3 other skilled mechanics.
Anyway, any input would be greatly appreciated
thx
 

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Awesome guide Smaay. There's no way I would have gotten it out nearly as smooth without this guide. Thanks to this and the install guides I got everything back up and running without a hitch.

A bit overkill I'm sure, but it's much easier to swap the transmission this way.

 

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Thanks, Smaay; I will be using this soon. Had no idea that you could actually get the transmission and engine out through the top at the same time, and of course ProDemand pretty much just tells you to unplug everything and pull it out.
 
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