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Discussion Starter #1
I am having a hard time maintaining traction at WOT around 4.5k + RPMS (in 1st & 2nd gear). For the time being an LSD is not an option. What do you guys think of solid motor mounts and an engine torque brace/damper ? any cons?
I am considering getting a different wheel setup- REMEMBER, THIS IS FOR DAILY DRIVING . I currently have 16" x 7" volks with pirelli p zero nero (205/50/16 I think). I was considering getting 17" x 9.5" in the front and 17" x 7.5"/8.5" in the back (most likely flare or roll the fenders). Does this seem like a good setup for daily driving? any help would be much appreciated.
 

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last I checked this is not suspension wheel and tire forum.

If you have traction problems the best thing is to learn to control your right foot. If its for racing then you should consider keeping your drag radials.

Some nice heavy 18s with sticky rubber on them would probably also help.
 

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The offset you will need to accomidate 9.5" wheels in the front will make the wheels stick way out past the fenders. If you don't use a negative enough offset, then you won't be able to turn your car without it rubbing really bad.

Richard
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Originally posted by Boosted2.0
Some nice heavy 18s with sticky rubber on them would probably also help.
What would you recommend?

Originally posted by RADR1732
The offset you will need to accomidate 9.5" wheels in the front will make the wheels stick way out past the fenders.
Richard
Originally posted by Nu Concept
17" x 9.5" in the front and 17" x 7.5"/8.5" in the back (most likely flare or roll the fenders).
Originally posted by RADR1732
If you don't use a negative enough offset
which offset would I need to have the widest wheel possible in the front (if not 9.5")?
 

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Oh well if you're going to flare it then you're cool. Just don't make it ugly. Find out how many inches you're going to flare it and then I'll get Dazz Motorsports to help me put together a decent offset number.

Richard
 

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I don't have personal experience with solid motor mounts, but from what I have heard they are a bad idea since you need a little give. The mechanic who said he tried it said his solid mounts broke.

Have you tried the Energy Suspension front and rear mount inserts?

do you have a turbo or are you "turbo free" as it says under your name. If you don't have a turbo then why is this in FI forum?
 

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Motor mounts is a bad idea with a turbo. Normally stress would be unloaded on the wheels by wheel hop. Now, if you would mount a motor mount that eliminates wheel hop, the stress will most likely be on the transmission.

Celica tranny doesn't like stress :ugh:
 

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Motor mounts might help, but in the end the amount of grip you have is directly related to the coeficient of friction between the tires and the road.

The two primary things you can do to keep that friction high is:

1) sticky tires.
2) weight over the front wheels.

What are your rear spring rates? Take whatever they are and DOUBLE them and you will see HUGE gains. Also, raise the rear ride height by an inch if you are lowered.

Scott
 

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width isn't going to matter as much as tire grip (of course, it does matter, but a grippier tire should be your first goal).

Try the following

Bridgestone Pole Position S0-3
Goodyear Eagle F1s
Kumho Ecsta MX
Michilen Pilot Sport PS2

or some DRs . . . .

I didn't include the T1-S because it simply doesn't perform like the other ones listed above.
 

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like boosted said, learn to controll your right foot.

I'd suggest getting at least 235's up front (wider is better)
 

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AM03GT said:
yokohama/advan A032R S tires :thumbup:
Agreed! Except I would say get H compound not S. The S is stickier but expected treadlife is very low.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Originally posted by Boosted2.0
Agreed! Except I would say get H compound not S. The S is stickier but expected treadlife is very low.
how much mileage can i expect from these tires?

Originally posted by autxr

What are your rear spring rates? Take whatever they are and DOUBLE them and you will see HUGE gains. Also, raise the rear ride height by an inch if you are lowered.

Scott
ok, i have tein ss coilovers and my settings are the factory settings (10 front, 8 back)- #16 being stiffest.
should I keep this setting? also, how different would the settings be for the coilovers whether i am going canyon carving or drag racing? should they be at the maximum stiffness for both?
 

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Nu Concept said:
how much mileage can i expect from these tires?
H compound would probably last about 10-15K on your car if your alignment is good and you rotate them properly.
 

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Nu Concept said:
10 front, 8 back
thats your damping stiffness not spring rates. Tein SS's spring rates are 7kg/mm (392lb/in) in the front and 9kg/mm (504lb/in). For mountain passes, you'd want a slightly softer setting to absorb all the roads bumps and dips. Mountain roads arent maintained as well as regular street roads, so you'd want something that'll keep you from jumping dips and bumps.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Originally posted by Gas-n-Grease
For mountain passes, you'd want a slightly softer setting to absorb all the roads bumps and dips. Mountain roads arent maintained as well as regular street roads, so you'd want something that'll keep you from jumping dips and bumps.
the mountains i go to have very well paved roads and veeerrryyy curvy bends. what now?
 

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I won't even comment on what I think about "mountain passes." If you need the ultimate in sports suspension there, please keep that asshattery it to yourself.

Think about what you are trying to do here. For launching, you are trying to keep as much weight on the front wheels as possible.

From what I know about the TEINs, I would crank the front to full stiff (that will slow the rearward weight transfer), and it's kind of a wash in the back. Stiffening the valving on the TEINs changes both compression and rebound, and both get stiffer. You want a crap load of rear compression valving, but not rebound valving for the rear, so it's kind of a wash. I'd tune the rear at the strip with some 60 ft times.

Again, I'd suggest jacking up the rear spring rate a bit (800 to 1000 lbs). That might upset the handling a bit on an autocross course though, in which case you will want to soften the rear sway bar to compensate.

Scott
 

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Definatley go wider with tires if you want better traction, and when you get the money down the road an LSD. other than that they things you do will not do much for you.
 
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