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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Install Gatorback belt


What you need:
- 19mm wrench/spanner
- Gatorback part no. 4060763 (size 6PK1940) for GTS (2ZZ-GE)
- jack & jack stands
- philips head screwdriver
- wrench to remove wheel

Steps:
1. Jack front right wheel, place car on jack stand, & remove Front Right wheel

2. Unscrew the two screws holding on the plastic shield in the wheel well. Remove the plastic plugs holding on the front right under carriage plastic shield. Pull down the plastic shields to reveal the lower pulley from the wheel well.

3. Open up the bonnet & remove the plastic surround on left when facing the windscreen (ie plastic closest to the front right wheel)

4. Use the 19mm wrench to lever on the pretensioner. There is a hex shaped bolt for this (actually, its not a bolt but you'll know what i mean when you see it). Don't try to loosen the bolt or you may strip it - use the bolt as a "handle" to lever on the tensioner. Pull/lever the wrench towards the front bumper in order to loosen the belt. A friend levering on the tensioner with a wrench whilst you attend to the belt is easier.

5. Whilst the belt is loose, pull it out (take note of how it snakes around the pulleys)


6. Replace with the Gatorback. You'll need to pull/lever on the pretensioner again to get the last pulley done. Do the upper pulley closest to the front bumper last.

7. Make sure the belt aligns correctly, replace all the plastic shields, and bolt the wheel back on. Done :thumbup:

 

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You don't have to do all that, just tension it, remove the belt, and put the new one on while a helper holds the tension.
If you have an aem pulley, then you need gatorback 1955 belt(for gts).
Put the belt on, but save the ungrooved front pulley for last, you may have to use a pry bar if its tight to force over the ungroove pulley. Don't try to pry it over the alternator pulley, unless you have enough slack...Takes about 5mins if you done this before.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Are you referring to the GT (ie 1ZZGE engine)? Cos when I was searching through the forums, many ppl said the same thing but they were referring to the GT.

The GTS (2ZZGE) literally has 1inch of room for hand to weave the belt through the pulleys so its practically impossible even with another person helping you to lever the tensioner.

On the GTS, beneath the front right wheel, there is a small plastic cover that needs to be removed, revealing all six pulleys for easy access!
 

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Woops...

I guess I pulled a little too hard on the wrench...

When trying to put the belt back on, I stripped and then completely broke off the "bolt" on the tensioner bracket. Now I have no idea what to do.

Anyone have any idea, other than having it towed to the dealership and fixed there?

:eek:wned:
 

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Ok, I found a MUCH easier way to do this. I got a 5 inch C-clamp and placed it on the tension piston, that black thing that supplies the force. and clamped away.

Then i removed the Alternator's top bolt and pushed the alternator toward the engine. and had tons of slack to pull off the old belt and put the new one on.

I changed the belt by myself in about 5 minutes doing it this way.
 

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the stock belt sucks... it squeeks like crazy when its wet or humid. i had mine replaced by toyota and 10,000 miles later... squeeeeeek :wtf:
 

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is that hex shaped bolt thingy suppose to be easy to lever??

i just tried to do all steps from the instruction, but i stuck alreay at step 4!!

i cant 'push' the hex shaped bolt....
 

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kevil said:
is that hex shaped bolt thingy suppose to be easy to lever??

i just tried to do all steps from the instruction, but i stuck alreay at step 4!!

i cant 'push' the hex shaped bolt....
It is a real pain on the GT-S - it takes quite a lot of force - but you don't push it - you pull it forwards, towards the front of the car. Be very careful not to strip that nut - it cost me
 

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Hotpocketdeath said:
Ok, I found a MUCH easier way to do this. I got a 5 inch C-clamp and placed it on the tension piston, that black thing that supplies the force. and clamped away.

Then i removed the Alternator's top bolt and pushed the alternator toward the engine. and had tons of slack to pull off the old belt and put the new one on.

I changed the belt by myself in about 5 minutes doing it this way.
I would be worried that the clamp might slip off with great force, but I'm might give it a try.

I am quite surpised that you needed to mess with the alternator though - just moving the tensioner gives me the 1/2 inch I need to get over the rim of the last pulley :shrugs:
 

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just go to Autozone and rent their Serpentine belt changing Kit..it comes with 2 long handle with a socket stud at one end to the side of the handle..stick ur 19mm socket in there and have a friend pull toward the car and u remove the belt..

best to do is take down the passenger side underplastic panel..u don't have to take it all down, just the 2 screws that hold it up on the side, nothing under need to remove..then when putting the belt on, sit b/n the tire like u gonna straddle the tire and then u can slide ur hand behind the wheel and feel the pully and route the new belt that way..
 

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Gravel said:
I would be worried that the clamp might slip off with great force, but I'm might give it a try.

I am quite surpised that you needed to mess with the alternator though - just moving the tensioner gives me the 1/2 inch I need to get over the rim of the last pulley :shrugs:
Well, I didn't have to absolutely take out the alternators top bolt. but it did make the change a lot easier and it only takes 30 seconds to do. and on my car. the belt came off very easily with more then enough clearance, but the new one wasn't stretched as much and would just barely slip over the final pully even with the tensioner max compressed with the clamp.

As for the C-clamp slipping off. I was actually surprised it clamped on like it did. I checked it to make sure it wouldn't slip off and it would barely budge if it's set up right. but if you use the C-clamp method, you would want to check to make sure it was secure in the first place before putting your fingers in the area.
 

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Replacement Products for TOYOTA CELICA - 2000 1.8L L 4 Eng

Part No. Applications Usage Footnote Metric Part No. Replace By
Poly-V Belts
4060605 Poly-V, w/o AC (GT-Models) 6PK1535
4060745 Poly-V, w/AC (GT Models) 6PK1890
4060763 Poly-V (GT-S Models) 6PK1940
Tensioners
49346 Tensioner
Idler/Tens Pulley
49024 Tensioner Pulley

http://www.goodyearbeltsandhose.com
 

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I just installed mine tonight on my gts. I got it from autozone online. The cheapest place I could find. It was shipped to autozone from goodyear and from autozone to me. So it took a little less than a week to get to me. Anyways, I followed the original guide above and it was done in about 30 minutes. I did it by myself with no help, so it can be done by one person. Removing the old belt was about 15 seconds by using a 19mm box wrench and slipping the belt off the alternator pully. I was going to try installing the belt without pulling off the wheel, but after a couple minutes or so, I just jacked the car, and pulled the wheel. This made it a lot easier. Routing the new belt around the pullies was harder than anything. I started by routing the belt around the 4 main grooved pullies (like a big squarish circle), then did the ungrooved pully toward the back, then the pushed the belt over the ungrooved pully in the front (which then made the belt like an hour glass) Like many stated in other posts about gts belt changes, the ungrooved pully in the front is a good one to be last. I used one hand on the 19mm wrench to compress the tensioner and the other to slide/push the belt on the ungrooved pully. I was so worried about breaking the tensioner arm/bolt because of everyone's posts on the forum. But it was really easy to move with the box wrench and I had plenty of slack. Overall it was worth the $65 labor I would have spent at the dealer and I would normally have had to wait for it anyways, so it wasn't wasted time either.

Good luck! And thanks to all previous posters about this belt install. It was very helpful!
 

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So far the new belt hasn't made a single chirp and I have no more rattling from the tensioner/pulley. It seems like the car is more responsive and has less bogging. This replacement/upgrade is a MUST!
 

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ok well it seems like people arent having any problem on this install. I never did get it the first time i posted but im going to get it now. My roomate is a tech at VW so ill just have him change the belt for me.
 

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Hi guys,

I have to order mine from overseas, and they told me that the part number for my ZZt231 is 6PK1937.. is it the right one? as on this guide its 6PK1940..

Thanks
 
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