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Discussion Starter #1
My car has a return system. Its a swapped 2zz as some of you may remember.
Everything is fine and dandy, but to make a return system i for the time being used an unknown fpr with a return system built in to make it work.
I have now got an adjustable fpr and want the fuel pressure to be a steady 50 psi.
My new fpr has 3 ports,
1 vacume line
1 for fuel in
The other for fuel out to the engine.

How am i supposed to install this? If i delete my unknown fpr and install this my car would be a returnless system then.
If i keep the old one and install this on top of that then that would be two fpr's. What's the point of that?
My old fpr is also three port, one for fuel in from the pump
The other is the feed to the engine
The other is a return line to the fuel tank.
I am just lost. Any help would be very appreciated. Have i gotten a wrong fpr?
 

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Unless you hav the other side of the rail tapped its not a return style.

One side of the rail should feed fuel to the injectors the otherside should be tapped then plumbed with a FPR which after the FPR should go to the return which needs tapped into the top of the fuel sending unit.

The other port on the FPR is used for a gauge so you can read your pressure.

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Discussion Starter #5
It is a return system i can assure you of that. I will post pictures here of my setup in detail soon.
But right now try to imagine this

The fuel pump is in the fuel tank. A pipe from it comes to the engine bay.
The engine bay has an unknown fpr with a fuel filter built in.
The pump sends the fuel to the filter/fpr
And it then feeds the fuel rail.
On the fpr/fuelfilter there is another return line which goes right back to the fuel tank and sends excess fuel back to the fuel tank. And it works. You can see the fuel coming back to the tank. This shady return system has worked from 2017 to 2020. It was meant to be temporary.
I hope this gives you a rough idea of the whole return system.
 

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Correct return style set up. If isnt like this i would rework your set up.


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Discussion Starter #8
Wow. My setup is infact incorrectly setup. Thanks man. Thanks alot.
So i should make a hole and tap the other end of the fuel rail, and put my new fpr there.
And then return that to the tank?
Is that correct? I mean the concept of it. I know practically it would require more work but is the concept correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thank you so much for your help man. One more question. My already installed fpr has a fuel filter built in. If i am to delete it i wouldn't have a fuel filter at all. Just the one in the fuel tank pump.
Now is that sufficient? Do i need to have two filters? Do i absolutely must have to get another fuel filter before the fuel goes into the engine? Or do i just remove that old fpr/filter and plumb it directly to the rail?
This might be a dumb question but i had to be sure
 

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1 filter is fine. They come with 1 from toyota. Th reason the picture shows it after the tank is most aftermarket systems ditch all the OE stuff minus the sending and run a in line filter bc its easy to maintain.that or they use a fuel cell which deltes everything oem.

Change the filter and youll be fine. It doesnt sound like your boosted or anything so in reality a fpr really isnt even needed.

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Discussion Starter #12
Okay thanks for the input.
And yes, i am not boosted (yet).
The thing is, i first need to get the car to factory levels.
I needed a project to work on, long story short i got a corolla 1997, 1.3l carbureted.
I went ahead and swapped in a Japanese aeroturor z engine (2ZZ) into it. Did all the fabrication and everything. It fit there quite well.
Then came the hardest part of all. The wiring.
It was a nightmare. Some of the people here already know that.
All information available was for USDM celicas. The pin outs and everything. And for some reason Toyota changed almost all of the pinouts for the jdm version of the ecu.
In the end the car started. But everything was off.
Slowly but surely figured everything out.
The DTC connector and the O2 remained.
And finally wired the DTC and the O2 in after failing a thousand times.
Finally the car was check engine light free and everything was completed.

But the 1997 was a carbureted car. It had no fpr or fuel pumps or anything. It ran on pump pressure. But i figured that Toyota installed the fpr for a reason.
So i was on the quest to find the in tank fpr system from the celica but there were complications. So now settled for the one in the engine bay.
If i set it around 50psi maybe everything is complete then.
Now can you see what I'm trying to achieve? It's been a long project i think almost 3 years and still going. After this I'm looking into super charging it AFTER everything is all in sync and going well.
I am looking into a Greddy supercharger but i don't think any F/I will ever work with a stock ECU. And i have nowhere to get a powerFC tuned correctly. So that could take a while to get everything going.
It's been a bumpy road but getting to drive a light car powered by the 2zz has its rewards.
 

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Forget the fc standalone.... the aem is a much better solution. The fc is way outdated tec.

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Discussion Starter #16
Btw I completed the install, just like you said to. Everything is fine, no leaks.
Tried to adjust it with the engine not running and fuel pump on it goes to 30 psi or something MAXED OUT.
then when you turn the car on and at idle it's around 44 psi
When you give it some gas the needle goes down maybe to around 30 when you pump the gas. To my knowledge this shouldn't be happening but i could be wrong.
Also the car has literally transformed with this for even tho the pressure isn't what I'd like it to be. It feels much much more stronger
 

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Short answer is ull need a better pump if you want it at a specified pressure. In reality it wont matter because you wont use enough fuel for it to do anything.

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Discussion Starter #18
Ohh i thought pressure dropping about 20-25 psi would not be good when under WOT Loads. Btw, thanks alot. Like, alot. You helped me a ton. Thanks.
 

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If its a 2zz you need a minimum of what ever the factory pump req. Supply is. Other than that its pointless without other mods. From the sounds if it is a stock engine with no real performance mods.

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Discussion Starter #20
yes, it is a stock engine. It has an intake and an exhaust/Header mod but I doubt they do anything at all without any tuning for it.
 
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