I see some people have them running from side to side, some have them running where the adjustment would be made from front to back, but um I dunno seems to me like the above would be correct unless I am missing something here.
Thanks for responding to my post. Yes, I know they are installed wrong but this is the only way some things are lining up. The only way I could make them work the correct way, where they are mounted to be adjusted side to side is by turning the plate and the shaft of the strut which I was told not to do, but they were preassembled and this is the only way I could make them work. Now my problem is that the numbers or increments on one side are towards the front of the car while the increments on the other side will not work correctly unless it is flipped causing the increments to be torwards the rear of the car. Does that make sense? Please help me out here. Also, you see how one part of the plate comes to a point in the pic below? Is that supposed to be oriented a specific way or does it matter?
Those are not right at all. Those 4 allen camber adjusting screws should be parallel with the car not close to perpendicular. Just imagine a horizontal line going across the strut towers. The camber plates should go that way.
There are no caster/camber plates for our Celicas you have camber plates that should go one way only.
The install is wrong. I wouldn't drive the car until it's fixed.
I would imagine getting replacement parts for those coilovers to be a bitch, so be safe, have some patience, and good luck.
No offense, but I'm getting sick of reading all your damn threads. Can you combine all your questions into one? You have seriously started 10 friggin threads over the same damn thing in the last week. It might sound harsh but every where you turn its a thread on some damn coilover...
Search around and find the pictures, it shows you how the things should be oriented.
Installed wrong the camber should adjust negative and positive camber (outward in inward or left/right) you have it at a strange angle that is slanted. Rotate the top camber plate a few degrees it should fit perfect. Fix it before it causes any damage to your car.
Now that's the way to roll. Good job on fixing it. Let us know how it rides. That's some top notch suspension you've got setup. I'd be cleaning those threads like every week to rid debris from jamming the perches up. Keep it up. Love the pics btw.
No, it was just that I was told that you aren't supposed to rotate the shaft of the strut because it ruins some mechanism inside, well obviously that is the only way the blasted thing would go in without rotating the plate. With these being so expensive I listened to everything anyone ever told me and it turns out the people that told me you cannot or should not rotate the shaft were on crack because according to people like AutoX on this site the shaft rotates all of the time. So, once I new for sure it was saft I just grew some balls and rotated that plate on around and voila. I just haven't messed with this crap in so long that I am making it much harder than it has to be. However, as you can see in the pics above the camber adjustment increments on the plates are mirror images of each other. On th drivers side plate the increments are at the top or towards the rear of the car while on the passengers side it is exactly the opposite, the increments are located towards the front. However, I don't see how that makes any difference really. If you guys notice anything wrong with anything above then please let me know. I am a little concerned about how close the endlink is to the strut body and how close the endlink/swaybar is so close to the driveshaft. I have never seen one ride that close soI hope nothing evolves from that. Now onto the rears.
P.S. Does anyone see any reason why I could not use the APR bar with this temporarily?
Only problem I see is you may need to remove and install the strut bar more than often if you have to adjust the coilovers. Other than that put it on and if it you still have a concern buy the strut bar that accomodates that suspension. It looks like it won't cause any clearance issues or problems. I know that strut bar has a tiny hole so maybe set your camber permanently and adjust your dampening through that tiny hole above the APR plate if your tool can even fit in that hole...
What about clearance issues between the strut, the endlinks, the swaybar, and the driveaxle? They all seem to be really close together. Much closer than they were. Another thing I noticed is that the front sway bar seems to be a little farther over towards the passenger side than it is the driver's side. I have no idea how that would have happened since when it was installed it was centered point on, but now after several months of driving it seems like it has been pushed more to one side or something.
Is everything bolted and torqued down to spec? Does the top plate have any scratches. If the suspension moved you may have to tighten down the bolts on the camber plates that adjust they may be loose. It's hard getting everything lined up by just eyeing it you'll never be precise. If you're not really sure take it to an alignment shop have then adjust it for you.
Everything is bolted down to spec. I checked it twice with a torque wrench. I am extremely disappointed at the moment as these things are about 6 threads from the bottom of the strut, at least the bottom spring seat is anyways. I figure since the design has two spring seats sitting on top of each other they probably take up about another 6-8 threads so technically it is sitting on thread number 12 or so from the bottom and with the car on the ground fully weighted it sits higher than it did stock. However, I expected that at least a little because the springs have not settled yet but damn it shouldn't be sitting higher than stock.
You see this is why I like directions because I have no idea how low these can go and I have no clue how much it drops per turn. It doesn't look like these will lower the car even as much as the TRD coilovers did which wasn't but roughly 1.75 inches. Right now I have a measurement of 15 inches from wheels center to the bottom of the wheel well. Stock measurement is 14.75-15 in the front so what gives? Like I said I know these need to settle a little but damn it isn't going to settle that much on 600 pound per inch springs. Also, the helper spring is totally squished. Is this supposed to be like that? I have never had a coilover set-up with a helper spring so I am clueless as to how this is supposed to be.
I was kind of wondering if this height thing was going to be a problem since the whole assembly off the car was about 6 inches longer than the whole TRD assembly.
that whole thing about your swaybar being really close to the axle on one side, and not nearly as close on the other.....is a problem I have as well. My drivers side has virtually no clearance and the passenger has tons of room. i thought I might have bent my hotchkis bar.