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New user!
I just bought some new taillights from andys auto which can be seen here:
http://www.andysautosport.com/toyot...hts/tail_lights/spyder_auto/spyd00109127.html

Ill probably make this way longer than it needs to be so a apologize.
This is what my plans are.. i have no idea about any of this stuff so,
advice and tips are GREATLY appreciated.

Now the install..
The new lights came with the same three holes for my ( reverse, signal, and running/brake lights) PLUS two additional wires..for the LEDS..one ground and one power.

Current OEM:
White 921 bulbs.. no worries! fit good transfer good.
White 7440 ( signal lights)
White 7443 ( running/brake)

In the new lights the 7440/7443 share the same "housing" if that makes any sense. ( lights are essentially side by side)

My plan was to rewire the LED lights to be the running lights..
This would mean that my signal lights and running lights would both be white.. ( white bulbs) ....

The plan was to buy four Red 7440's LEDS to replace both bulbs ( signal and brake).

So one question i have is.. If i have a Red LED bulb as my brake lights..and another one as my Signal lights..right beside eachother.. Will i still have a distinct Signal when i brake and signal at the same time? ..
Or should i buy a white LED for signalling to make it more distinct?

Also i was told to put resistors on the signal lights ( 50w 6 ohm) which i was going to do.. should i also get a resistor for the LED brake light?
 

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LED bulbs run hotter than incan. The heat propagates through the wires, eventually crack, damage or melt the wire insulation, causing shorts or opens. Any light bulbs that stay on long, like tail, license plate, cannot use LED bulbs as they will burn the wires. I replaced all LEDs back to incan.

The wires to my tail lights and license lights were all heated up and damaged, causing a short. It kept blowing the 10 A fuse, so I put in a 30A fuse to keep the tail light on long enough to trouble shoot. It was a huge mistake. The high 30A current burned the fuse box and the Body Control Module, the computer that controls all light functions in the car, $1,100 at dealer.

I bought an used BCM on eBay $70, brought the car to an auto electrical shop. He installed the BCM, took out all interior panels, found the tail light wires had burned and broken up, all insulation melted and burned up, just bare wire. He traced the tail light wire from the trunk to the BCM under the dash, replaced that wire. The license plate wire was overheated and cracked, exposing wire along 6" near the LED bulb. he taped it up. Labor costs $235, everything works perfect now. The repair guy said LED bulbs cause a lot of problems. He sees it all the time
 
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