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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone. First off, if I am posting in the wrong section, MOD please pardon my mistake and put this where it needs to be.

Last year the engine failed in my 03 GT so I decided it was a good idea to upgrade and install a 2zz w/ 6spd trans. About a year later, the swap is finally almost complete. :/ Some people may recall a few of my previous posts about troubleshooting, and thanks to all the help back then I wanted to reach out for advice again.

Basically I am having trouble achieving Lift. What I am experiencing is when I hit over 6000 RPM the engine bogs down and instead of engaging lift, begins to under perform and lose power. I suspect it has something to do with the oil pressure sensor not properly sending the information to the engine to engage, however I have replaced the physical sensor and still no change, but I am honestly not entirely confident I replaced the right sensor at this point.

I have also tested using two different ECUs with no change to rule out a bad computer. To add to that, almost all of the issues I had with the swap were tied to the electrical wiring. I have had to run new wires, splice into wiring, its been a mess. Because of this I highly suspect it all comes back to the wiring. I thought I would reach out to someone who has insight or experience (with either Lift, engine swaps or electrical) and can possibly point me in the right direction on what would be best to test next and start ruling out possible causes. It would really be a shame to go all this way and not try to get Lift working.

While I tried searching the threads for helpful information, I did come across a thread from farhanali89 about a Lift troubleshooting guide, but could not find the link anywhere. If anybody knows where this guide went I would be more than happy to start there. Otherwise, any other advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Smaay, I read it when I first researched the swap last year, and your guide is what lead me to troubleshoot starting with the oil pressure sensor. I can tell you this much:
Using ALLDATA's manual to troubleshoot, I tested voltage from the two blue lift wires from the ECU and that passed, however there was a test to check voltage for the oil pressure switch by applying the gas, and I was supposed to see varying voltages indicating sensor was working, but instead it stayed at 0, which I suspect is the issue. My ALLDATA account is expired, but if it would help to look up that test again I can renew and look it up.
I can tell you that I am not getting 1690 and 1692 codes, or any codes at all. But I am sure that doesn't really help

Also, if you are referring to the TPS plug pin out in your guide, its been a while but I believe we did do that as part of the list of stuff done post swap out, but I will have to double check that. I will be out of town starting tomorrow, so the earliest I can check would probably be Monday night.
When you said the engine bogged in your guide, did you mean the it bogged all the time, or only when you tried to hit lift? Because if I shift below 5k, the car does pick up and go fairly quickly.

Core2kid, I thought that could be a problem too, and also read that guide about replacing the lift bolts. I was hoping that wasn't the issue because 1, I don't have the confidence to take the engine apart like that and expect to put it back together, and 2, don't have the flexibility to decommission my car as it is my primary transportation. Plus, if I f**ed it up, I would be out of a vehicle which would really suck.
Maybe when I finish school next year and I replace this car as my primary I can do that without as much worry if I screw it up. I was hoping that someone who had to replace their lift bolts would say whether or not this type of behavior happened to them to rule out hardware failure.
Unfortunately a friend recommended their mechanic friend for the swap so I hired him and am now picking up where he left off and figuring stuff out as I go. I am an IT guy, and not very experienced mechanically so this has really been a learning experience.
Thanks to you both for chiming in with your thoughts though.
 

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I'd suggest to take off your valve cover gasket and check the bolts at least. If they're stripped and come off cleanly, buy new bolts from Toyota and swap them in. If they are broken and snapped inside the shaft, at least you know what the problem is and you can tackle the job when you have time. Popping off the valve cover gasket should honestly take you 10 minutes tops.

Also do you have any check engine lights? They can disable Lift.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the tip Core2Kid.

You make it sound so easy :). I may have time to check that then after work tomorrow if it is quick and painless as it sounds. I'll try to post pics if I get 'em out right.

As for as CEL, no lights on the dash, and my OBD2 reader is not reporting any issues.
 

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Torque them out SLOWLY. If they're about to snap that'll prevent them from snapping. If they're already snapped then hopefully they come out easily.
 

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i have a stock gts that I recently bought and I think my lift bolts are broken (the previous owner had no maintenance done at all) if I try to take them out and the bolt is broken inside, would I still be able to drive it to go buy the part from Toyota with the broken piece still in? in other words, does it effect the driving ability at all ?
 

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i have a stock gts that I recently bought and I think my lift bolts are broken (the previous owner had no maintenance done at all) if I try to take them out and the bolt is broken inside, would I still be able to drive it to go buy the part from Toyota with the broken piece still in? in other words, does it effect the driving ability at all ?
You're better off getting the bolts first. Even if they're not broken, it's best to replace them.
 

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Buy the bolts and then take the valve cover off and check them out. Hopefully if the bolt is broke it hasn't rotated yet. I was in that situation and a local mechanic tapped it and drilled it out. Regardless if they aren't broke you should replace them for the stronger newer bolts.
 

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I have covered this so many times. yes its ok to drive with a broken bolt. I wouldnt take it to toyota though, they will charge you close to 1000 bucks to fix it.
 
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