Worn ignition parts? Can you give specifics?May not be a full on missed ignition event but a partial combustion due to weak spark or incorrect mixture.
Just did a Rolla at work with worn ignition parts, it would buck and stumble a little at tip in but otherwise ran smooth if you were easy on it and even if you were into throttle it would clear up around 3500 RPM. New stuff, runs great any speed any RPM and any throttle position. It was getting partial combustion on some cylinders some times.
Unfortunately though, I STILL have hesitation. Nothing has changed. It's still an intermittent thing. Sometimes I'll have nice, smooth power and other times I won't (all during the same driving session).
Give it about a tank of gas to settle down. After a reset, you will hit points in the fuel map where it needs to make adjustments. If you are still having issues after a tank, its time to start troubleshooting again.Yes, I disconnected the negative terminal during the entire replacement process.
I define "hesitation" as a lack of increase in power throughout the rpm range. When you are stepping on the throttle, through out the power band, you will feel the car pull and then all of a sudden it will stumble/hesitate for a couple seconds (as if applying brakes or taking your foot off the throttle), and then suddenly pull again. Strangely enough, the problem is almost non-existent in 5th gear.Let's back up a step. What do you define as a "hesitation"?
Is it a defined pause in the application of engine power? Can you hear/feel a miss or stumble in the motor? Is the motor running smooth or vibrating a lot? Bitter's scanner test would reveal these issues with either the ignition or with fuel delivery.
Or do you feel the hesitation in the power being applied to the wheels? Does it feel jerky when cruising or when applying the throttle in the gear range you mentioned in an earlier post? This could come from a mostly worn clutch or slipping automatic transmission, which is why I asked that question earlier. Our 1990 Celica GTS had this problem; solved with a new clutch.
Hope this helps.
I have not checked the oil screen. Can that affect performance in such a way that I've described? The Date of Manufacture on the door is 10/01.Have you checked the VVT oil screen?
What is the Date of Manufacture shown on the door?
I understand how the O2 sensor works. I was really trying to understand what you're doing to determine if the motor was going lean and/or misfiring. Was it just by checking stft/ltft?Bitter said:
Subject to oil burning issues.The Date of Manufacture on the door is 10/01.
While that is a good sign, it does not necessarily mean that it is detecting the correct AFR. Time to look at the LTFTs again.Yes, that looks good.
Can't hurt to check it. As I recall, earlier models do not toss a CEL on VVT range errors.I have not checked the oil screen.
I don't think it is running rich. I'm getting pretty good gas mileage (27-29 city/hwy combined) and no black smoke from the tail pipe. What should I look out for in LTFTs?Subject to oil burning issues.While that is a good sign, it does not necessarily mean that it is detecting the correct AFR. Time to look at the LTFTs again.
I am by no means an engine expert. But, everything I've seen said running rich. The LTFTs, troubles in warm weather, etc. But, the P0505 has been cleared. :thumbup:
Is there anything in particular to look out for in the graph when it's hesitating?Bitter said:Yes, that looks good. Now, lets see feedback when it's hesitating.
Apologies. I was thinking of a different thread. You said LTFT's were good.I don't think it is running rich. I'm getting pretty good gas mileage (27-29 city/hwy combined) and no black smoke from the tail pipe. What should I look out for in LTFTs?
MAF, timing, temps, etc.Is there anything in particular to look out for in the graph when it's hesitating?