NewCelica.org Forum banner

1 - 2 of 2 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So... if you have not done these shifter cables for a manual before... its absoluetly the worst thing i have done period. I would NOT suggest this unless you are very mechanicly inclined and are passed the "basic tools" fase. But hopefully this guide help and makes it a little less miserable.

I also did find a way to make it faster and i will post pictures as i go.

I would highly suggest you get a perm marker and mark each connector in the dash differently before you remove during this process so you know which connector goes where and which connectors are not used.

FIRST air intake box or CAI, remove battery and battery tray. Should be a 12mm bolt and 2 12mm nuts, this gives you alot more room in the engine bay. Also remove the ecu its i believe 4 10mm bolts and a couple connectors.




Remove cables from transmission linkages and remove the clips holding the lines to the transmission. Easy way i found on the clips is pry from the back side with a sharp flathead screw driver and rock it back and fourth till its off.




Second jack up car and remove the 4 10mm nuts holding on the heatshield over the cat and slide it down near the exhaust hangers. This will give you plenty of room. (I would suggest PB Blaster or another kind of lubricant as the studs can break)




Remove the 2 10mm nuts holding the bracket for shifter cables. And pry off so free the lines for removal.

Next comes the fun bits...

Okay do your self a favor and remove both seats. Trust me. Ull save your back as you will be on it most of this. Each one is 4 12mm bolts.


Remove shifter knob and remove and connector to the window switch and the 12v power supply. Set this in the back seat or trunk.


Remove center dash by taking the knobs off the hvac controll and removing the 4 phillips screws holding it on, now carefully pop off the top cover and make sure you remove the conector on the clock so you dont break it. Set it in the back seat or trunk.



Next remove the radio which is 4 10mm bolts and remove the connector and 2 black cords, set radio in back seat or trunk.



Remove center console which is held on by 2 screws and 2 10mm bolts under a peice of carpet. Apply parking brake if not done alreadys this will make it easier to remove




Next make sure your back tires are blocked off and your car cannot roll backwards.

Disengage the parking brake and remove the assembly which is 2 12mm bolts and a single wire connector. This will free alot of space which you will need, just leave the cable connected and move it towrds the back seat.



Next comes the lower dash and trim peices. There are multiple screws and 10mm nuts holding on both sides of the lower dash remove them all and drop the lower section of the dash. The driver sections can stay put on the side but remove the passenger side to the back seat or trunk as it has to be out of the way.


There is a metal bar on the pessenger side that has 2 ground wires attached with a 10mm bolt. Remove that and then remove the 1 12mm nut and 1 12mm bolt holding the bar in.




Okay now remove the 4 10mm nuts and the 1 10mm bold holding on the fuse boxes mark the connectors so you know where they go with out confusion. The driver side box needs to get moved completely out of the way, you can push aside the passenger side enough to do what you need.






From here remive the 3 torxT-40 screws from the air bag control box and move it out the way to the backseat or trunk.


Now everything should be moved out the way enough to get to the plate that holds the cables. There is 2 10mm bolts and they are a nightmare to get to. The driver side you can get with a 1/4 slim ratchet and a shallow socket. The passenger side bolt is crap, on a scale of 1-10 its aids. Expecally if you dont follow my tip below. I wasted nearly 2 hours trying to do this.



The only way you can get on it is with a 10mm rachet wrench but be warned if you screw it to far out with the ratchet end you may not beable to get the rachet or bolt out because there is zero room, so unless you have a ultra thin rachet wrench i would losen it some then switch to the open end which will take forever due to the lack of room.

Now my trick im going to let you all in on if you do attempt this your self is once you get the new cables in and ran and its time for the bolts that hold on the plate, screw in the driver side in a few threads then go back under the car with the last bolt and drive it through from underneath that way it pokes up like a stud. Now position the plate where the stud sticks up and fully tighten the driver side, now take a 10mm nut the proper thread. (if you dont have one take one off the firewall that holds the air duct on 1 wont hurt anything)

Having a helper makes a world of difference here, use a pry bar and push the plate down on the passenger side near the stud. With a stick magnet on the side of the nut when you reach it in there the nut will hook the stud and stay there.



Hopefully your friend has small hands and have them reach in and spin it a few threads and you should have no issue getting a rachet wrench in there now.

Sweep the car out put everything together and boom your done. Ill say this took me nearly 14 hours due to not having a guide to look at so hopefully this cuts the time in half knowing what to do in the future.



Thanks guys hope this helps. If theres anything i missed please let me know.

Maybe worth being a sticky??

2000 gts 6speed
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
462 Posts
Nice write up. Good job.
I think Toyota attached the shifter cables to the chassis in step #3 of 7004 assembly steps.
Be glad that the cable end bushings were not seized to the shifter linkage posts on the transmission like on most Canadian Toyotas.
If that happens, pry the round rubber bushing end out of cable and leave it stuck on the shifter post. You may destroy the linkage post trying to get the stuck bushing off.
Lube the outside of the rubber bushing with moly grease and pry/insert it into the new cable end (from which you remove the new bushing and put it in your toolbox for another time). Lube the bushing side of the top washer with moly grease and clip it back on top of the cable end.
The gears will shift by rotating the bushing inside the cable end instead of rotating the bushing on the linkage post. The more lube the better (as with most things).
I hope that saves someone some time and more cursing.
Dentman
 
1 - 2 of 2 Posts
Top