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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just over a year and it seems like my southbend ss tz clutch has gone!
The pressure plate doesnt seem to be handling very well and my gears are very hard to go in when car in in use..

I was doing some research since I wont be getting the same southbend clutch and i found a clutch from clutch masters.. Its the FX300 which is a double kevlar clutch. Does anyone have this clutch and can give me some feedback? Also maybe if not that clutch maybe someone can suggest me a better one?

link below:

http://www.clutchmasters.com/index.php?module=site&action=GetPage&id=17&nav=leftnav_products.tpl
 

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i remember reading another thread about southbend clutch and having the gears very hard to get into. i can't help much other than basic troubleshooting. I have the ACT HD.

was this your thread?
 

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Not sure if the clutch would be the culprit of shifting gears issues. I would replace your trans fluid. The only trouble i had with my TZ clutch was the pressure plate, it was softer than the clutch after install. After I broken the clutch in, it was better than stock.
 

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I think it may be your shifter cables. Also, try re-bleeding the clutch's slave cylinder.

A clutch, when dying, won't cause the gears to be 'hard'. The signs of bad clutch is slip. If you don't have any slipping; ie: go 60mph in 6th gear and floor it, does it free rev then catch and then accelorate? If not, then its not your clutch.


Oh, and by the way, MWR recommended the ACT HD clutch, for me, since i'm N/A. It was one I was looking at anyway, so I went with it. It has a stockish feel, but maybe a little grabbier. It will handle 235lb/fts. I'm sure my celica will never see that unless I go boosted.
 

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i highly doube the clutch has gone bad. southbend is the best out there IMO, id think it might be the installer, havent you had trouble with shops?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
my mechanic tried my car and told me your clutch is def going so it will need to be changed. He said prob i have 2 probs - clutch which will fix the hard gears and maybe cables.. are they expensive to get? and if so are there any heat proof ones/high performance ones i should get?

Im thinking of getting the cables frist since will be changing them anyway maybe mechanic is wrong and i save changing my clutch

I realised that once i give it a few hard pulls gears become very hard and quit hard to put into gear, when i leave the car cool down for like 2 hrs and i try shifting gears with car off they go in smooth.. I think i will be taking out my TWM maybe thats causing or caused the problem..
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i highly doube the clutch has gone bad. southbend is the best out there IMO, id think it might be the installer, havent you had trouble with shops?
That was my impression.. i thought i got the right clutch..

well what i realized was that my gear wasnt going in when i shift from first to second so i went to him telling him i migh buy the extended push and he told me let me set your pedal so that it will engage in the middle not at the ver bottom.. could that be part of the problem that caused my gears to get hard?

Also, if its not the clutch, then how come when i shift into 1st or reverse i feel the car "slipping"? i feel that there is a 1 second slipping feeling when the clutch engages. no smell whatsoever and not even revs going higher when shifting gears..
 

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1st gear is the gear least likely to show signs of clutch failure, as there is very little tourqe on the clutch, compared to a 60+mph 6th gear pull.

My clutches that have failed would 1st show signs of slipping at highway speeds, like when you pass someone and not downshift.

Your saying in 1st gear you are getting like a free-rev, no grab?

I still think it is not your clutch.
My advice; bleed the clutch, then if still problems, go after shifter cables. If still persists, you might have to crack it open and examine the clutch disc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hmm.. is see you think that if i bleed the clutch i could fix my problem?

Thing is that like a month ago i had a competition and i did a burnout and kinda killed my clutch and i started smelling the clutch getting burnt.. I stopped immediately and went to park ( The gears wer vey hard to put in at that time). left it cool down for like an hour and drove home.. the follwing day all seemed fine and i was driving normally...

The following week i went to the drag strip again and i gave it one try and the gears got hard straight away.. funny thing is that in the road driving its ok.

"Your saying in 1st gear you are getting like a free-rev, no grab?"

yeah when i will be at a stand still and put it in first i feel like the first second as though the clutch is slipping (trying to get grip).. happens also in reverse but only those two gears..

last thing i noticed is when i shift in high rpm the gears are very hard to put in.. Im sure its not the problem but could the TWM short shifter be a small cause in my problems?
 

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i found a clutch from clutch masters.. Its the FX300 which is a double kevlar clutch. Does anyone have this clutch and can give me some feedback?
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I've used the FX300, their stage 3, and I'd say it's a bit too aggressive for the street. it's like an on/off switch, either disengaged or fully engaged. I switched to their stage 2, and I'm very happy with it. I use it with their lw flywheel too, which weighs about 8.5-9 lbs I think. not as light as the fidanza at 7.5 lbs. but there's less of chance of things going wrong if you stick to the same company for clutch/flywheel.

also, a clutch that grabs instantly might make it harder to land in lift, but you have the Power FC so you can make adjustments.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I see you saying its too agressive.. hmmm stage 2 is better?
its a 1 dad week car so either go out for a drive or for a race.
I think i will try the cables first and see how it goes.. are there any high performance ones that i can get? also will the extended push rod be of any advantage to my problem?
 

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A good friend of mine has the Spec Stage 3 clutch kit installed in his GT-S with bolt ons. Its very harsh, I actually hate to drive the damn thing, every time you try to shift at around 4k rpms the whole car jolts. Its a pain in a parking lot, and on hills where you have to slip the clutch to maintain control of the car. Not to mention that the Spec stage 3 is weak sauce compared to that clutchmasters clutch that you are talking about.

I told myself I would never own a stage 3 clutch, unless its a born drag car.

Onto the 'hard' gears problem. I think it is either your shifter cables/bushings, fluid (fullness/bleeding). Maybe extended pushrod is needed? It sounds like one way or another the clutch isn't fully disengaging, or the shifter cables are rusted/frayed causing it hard to move the shifter lever. The latter could be easily diagnosed if I could feel the shifter. Does it move completely freely, like it should, until you get to the 'wall' of a gear? Side to side aswell? If it does, then its probably not the shifter cables. But I would still replace all the shifter bushings (the ones located in the engine bay, under the battery), they're cheap, and give a lot of shifter feel.

Still no fix? bleed and check the fluid level of the clutch. Like I said, you may end up having to crack it open, but that is a last resort. I'm just giving you the check list I would make up for myself.

-Check fluid
-inspect clutch fluid lines for swelling under high temps. / replace (SS maybe?)
-bleed clutch
-inspect cables, replace if needed
-replace bushings
-inspect clutch disc
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Whats confusing me is that when the car cools down (overnight) the gears go in normally.. if there is a problem with the cables then even after an overnight rest the gears will remain hard.

I had changed the bushings when i got my TWM short shifter.

The other confusing thing is that before i got the southbend clutch, i used to have the shifting issue once in a while mainly in summer..

In April i changed the tranny fluid to 75-90 Sunoco oil since we dont have redline tranny oil here.
 

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I'm gonna go on limb here and say your gearbox is showing signs of fatigue.

If you were to replace the clutch anyway..I dunno. I'm using the southbend tz and i actually like the way the pedal feels (softer than my friends stock clutch!!) but i hate the fact that i need to hold around 3000rpm and a bit more to get a smooth take off from the lights.
 
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