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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My first purchase ever that was not from a private party (dealer) and it was the only one I've seen this year that was under 200K miles private party or not. After their fees and reimbursing me for the independent mechanic's inspection (which turned up fine honestly) it came out to $7,800

MAIN REASON I AM POSTING IS I WANT TO KNOW HOW TO DEFEAT THE DUMMY LIGHT ON THE DASH WHEN I CHOOSE TO INSTALL LEDS. Haven't been able to find much info on that so far, and I absolutely want to convert them.

I made it work with my Supra, but my 94' Camry had zero people who know how to fix the dash light. So I don't want to put in fancy new LED head/tail lights if it's going to be a dash light issue I cannot fix.

I know the GTS has a lot more issues than the GT, but I'm hoping I can make this work. I've heard replacing the engine oil pan is a must, but I don't know the details of it.
Other than that (and the piston rings, what are you gonna do?) I don't know of many issues with the car. I just want to do everything I can to make her as reliable as possible.

Sadly She does get condensation on the inside. She has a sunroof, so I suppose that could be the culprit, but I don't know how common that issue is.
Been wanting one of these since I bought my 88' Supra last year and I'm amazed I finally have it. Now it's time to make sure she is right in everyway and be fantastic for years to come

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The only issue with LED conversion that I recall is you have to swap out the flasher to an LED compliant one or install resistors(kinda defeats the purpose of installing LEDs) to have a normal flash time on turns/hazards. There is no "bulb out" type warning like your old Camry in this gen Celica.
Thanks good to know thanks. I almost forgot about the flasher, I'll be sure to get one. The led headlights/taillights I found seem to be simple enough so I hope this will just work fine.

Everything I've seen has shown the 2ZZ to be the more reliable engine, although it's more specialized and takes some know-how to maintain. You don't need to replace the pan at all, and the rings are only a problem on the very early 1ZZ engines. Otherwise, the most common issues seem to be generic ones that can hit any engine, and occasionally Lift not working.
That's good to know. Maybe the oil pan issue was a bit more blown out of proportion than I thought.
I'm already planning on painting the valve cover and changing the cover gasket, so I'll inspect and change out the two lift bolts as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
My '01 GTS is also at 140k as well :D Congrats on the purchase! Also agreeing with @actionseeker on the oil pan. Been daily'ing my Celi for close to 2 years now and have had no problems with the oil. Just did the usual 3k oil and filter change and she runs amazing. Oil starvation was mainly a problem on the GT models. However, since our model is the pre '03 version, the lift bolts are notorious for breaking, so switch those out with the '03+ lift bolts like you were planning. Here's the part number in case you need it : TOY 90105-06293
Hey, we got the same car pretty much! Yeah I'm not really worried about the oil pan anymore.
I find the shipping price pretty hilarious lol.
Rectangle Parallel Font Circle Screenshot


I cleaned out the moonroof track/surrounding area today, really wasn't too bad. Trying to figure out what is letting the moisture into the car. All the seals seem to be in really good shape.
Could leaving the vents on fresh air instead of recirculating have anything to do with it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
EP35 is the flasher number for LED's in the Celica.
Change the trans fluid, I like Redline D4.
Passenger side engine mount is probably shot, use a dealer part.
Fresh spark plugs, I like Denso 4702's.
Check for cracks down the sides of the ignition coils, replace if they are. Get Denso's from RockAuto.
Clean the airflow sensor element wires.
Even if it's not throwing codes the upstream sensor is probably starting to get lazy or drift, it's fairly simple to replace and not horrible expensive for a Denso one from RockAuto.
Change the coolant and thermostat, these cars have good heat and get hot fast with a fresh dealer thermostat.

None of this has to be done all at once, can do it bit by bit.
Depending what kind of use the car will see, good tires make a big difference. All around performance all season tires would be the Continental DWS06+. No all season will perform like dedicated winter or summer tires though, not sure how Oregon is for snow and slush but the DWS get me through winters in Chicago on my other car just fine with some sensible driving.
Thanks a ton (again) Bitter. I know Denso is the way to go with these older Toyota cars.
No trans dipstick here, but I wouldn't mind changing out the trans fluid myself. From what I know it takes a few flushes to even really replace most of the fluid.
already have these plugs on the way, I don't think they are the model you mentioned, but it's the best I could find
I know the airflow sensors can get caked with carbon. I'll consider that next year, I know it's not a hard job to swap out.
Not exactly sure what you mean by clean the airflow sensor wires, but I will inspect them.
I'm sure the thermostat will need replacing of course, also not sure if that's a job I can do myself with such a tight engine bay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I bought OEM Denso spark plugs off Amazon for my Camry before. Exactly the same as the original ones unless there is an elaborate conspiracy.
Let's assume those Ebay Denso Iridium plugs are real, is there anything wrong with them?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks. I'll take a look when I get them. Going from all these cues, they do look like the real deal from the ebay pic though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
No glossy tip, printing seems good, the tip isn't copper colored. As far as I can tell it's the real deal.
Automotive tire Automotive lighting Household hardware Auto part Engineering
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Yep, looks legit. You got lucky!

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Should be for $40 lol. I really do appreciate you guys educating me on fakes though. I had no idea it was a thing.

Next month I plan to install these, inspect the coil packs (this is a new thing to me, all my cars before just had boots/wires and ONE big igition coil. Having to change out the one on my Camry this year I now understand why it's a thing. Then again that costed me $25 to fix and will probably last forever compared to coilpack costs...)

My new black(!) drilled and slotted rotors and new pads (even though the ones on it are pretty fat) came in today. I will change all those out, but not before I paint all the brake calipers. I'm thinking red, but maybe that would be dumb since it matches the car color, maybe grey?

New tires and wheels are coming soon so those will go on to as will the after market LED head/tail lights. She is going to be almost exactly where I want here before the year is over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
Took the valve cover off today aaaaaand one of the lift bolts is broken in half, the other is missing a tiny bit of the tip.

I'm NOT a happy camper. I don't see the broken off bolts down there so they must have been turned inside the rocker.

I have a ton of work to do on the car still and I feel completely defeated by this but...is it safe to drive the car around if I just put the old broken bolts back in (or hell maybe even the new ones?) Obviously I want to take care of this ASAP, but money is a bit tight right now so honestly if this isn't a major issue, I would feel a hell of a lot better letting it pass for now.

As a reminder, this is an auto. I don't think the thing goes past 5K RPM the way I drive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
The missing tip is probably in the rocker shaft, you may be able to take off the OCV and push it though then rotate the shaft into alignment and just install new bolt. Without pulling a cam or the chain loose! I used a length of 3/16 brake line I think but anything would be fine, just make sure it's caught on the other end and DOES NOT FALL INTO THE TIMING CHAIN.
How exactly would that work? I see where the OCV is on the right of the engine, and I know that's the last step AFTER you take out the cams, but are you saying you could tap the rocker out WITHOUT taking off the cams? Forgive my ignorance anyhow, I'm not that smart with cars still.

As a side note just for the mean time, would I cause any harm just installing the new bolts as is for now?
 
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