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EP35 is the flasher number for LED's in the Celica.
Change the trans fluid, I like Redline D4.
Passenger side engine mount is probably shot, use a dealer part.
Fresh spark plugs, I like Denso 4702's.
Check for cracks down the sides of the ignition coils, replace if they are. Get Denso's from RockAuto.
Clean the airflow sensor element wires.
Even if it's not throwing codes the upstream sensor is probably starting to get lazy or drift, it's fairly simple to replace and not horrible expensive for a Denso one from RockAuto.
Change the coolant and thermostat, these cars have good heat and get hot fast with a fresh dealer thermostat.

None of this has to be done all at once, can do it bit by bit.
Depending what kind of use the car will see, good tires make a big difference. All around performance all season tires would be the Continental DWS06+. No all season will perform like dedicated winter or summer tires though, not sure how Oregon is for snow and slush but the DWS get me through winters in Chicago on my other car just fine with some sensible driving.
 

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There 107% is a trans dipstick there. It's over by the ECU box in front of the battery and it's reddish brown plastic with a little lock tab on the tube. If you don't have a dipstick either you actually have a stick shift or someone took/broke it off. You might want to buy an owners manual off eBay.
You'll get about 4-5qts on a drain from the pan plug. Measure what comes out then add that much back in. Valvoline MaxLife ATF is also a good fluid but a little thinner. T-IV isn't bad but I don't believe it's synthetic base, if you're driving twisty roads for a long time you'll get the trans pretty hot. The M indicator will flash to warn you about 'problem' and eventually if you keep pushing it the trans temp light will come on and I believe put the trans into limp with M disabled.

If you have the time you can get a few more quarts by starting the engine and idling it in each gear position for about 30 seconds, it'll pump more out from the valve body and torque converter. Letting it sit for a couple days will let just about all the fluid drain back and drip out.

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Bad news, those are probably counterfeit parts on eBay....or Amazon too. 100% stick with local retail or RockAuto. Also the 4702 are a better plug for same or less money.

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If they're real,no. That's a big if. Check out some YouTube videos about counterfeit Denso spark plugs so you can spot the differences.

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Check those out, fake spark plugs and oxygen sensors are really really common on Amazon and eBay.

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My preference for the Iridium TT spark plugs is due to longevity and performance. They maintain their gap and arc characteristics over a very long service life (90,000 miles or more) meaning I don't have to mess with them very often and they'll perform at their peak during that time. I had IX plugs before and they were worn to the point of degredation by 30,000 miles, the ground strap eroded. Iridium TT are a mass market version of their SIP (super ignition plug) that's been used in Japan for a long time and is OE on a lot of Japanese cars now. It has less spark shrouding and high fouling resistance.

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Mine were in a similar state at 85K miles, I had internment lift, most of the time the exhaust lift worked and intake lift always worked. Found a broken tip on the exhaust side that was in place but the rocker shaft had started to spin a little so I had to pull the exhaust cam to get it out. Tip fell into the shaft but I was able to remove the lift OCV and push it through into rags on the chain side and rotate the shaft back into place. I installed a fresh chain tensioner at the same time.
Driver side was notched but intact, didn't have long until it broke too.

My butthole was so tight hitting lift for the first time after repair that I shit linguine noodles for a week after. Timing on the 2ZZ is a little tricky to see in the car really well and you do not want to be off as in lift it's definitely an interference engine.

The missing tip is probably in the rocker shaft, you may be able to take off the OCV and push it though then rotate the shaft into alignment and just install new bolt. Without pulling a cam or the chain loose! I used a length of 3/16 brake line I think but anything would be fine, just make sure it's caught on the other end and DOES NOT FALL INTO THE TIMING CHAIN.
 

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It's been a while, I forgot the cam sits so closely to the end of the shaft and one end is plugged. Whoops! Maybe a really tiny magnet down the shaft?

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