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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
No glossy tip, printing seems good, the tip isn't copper colored. As far as I can tell it's the real deal.
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Yep, looks legit. You got lucky!

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Yep, looks legit. You got lucky!

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Should be for $40 lol. I really do appreciate you guys educating me on fakes though. I had no idea it was a thing.

Next month I plan to install these, inspect the coil packs (this is a new thing to me, all my cars before just had boots/wires and ONE big igition coil. Having to change out the one on my Camry this year I now understand why it's a thing. Then again that costed me $25 to fix and will probably last forever compared to coilpack costs...)

My new black(!) drilled and slotted rotors and new pads (even though the ones on it are pretty fat) came in today. I will change all those out, but not before I paint all the brake calipers. I'm thinking red, but maybe that would be dumb since it matches the car color, maybe grey?

New tires and wheels are coming soon so those will go on to as will the after market LED head/tail lights. She is going to be almost exactly where I want here before the year is over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
Took the valve cover off today aaaaaand one of the lift bolts is broken in half, the other is missing a tiny bit of the tip.

I'm NOT a happy camper. I don't see the broken off bolts down there so they must have been turned inside the rocker.

I have a ton of work to do on the car still and I feel completely defeated by this but...is it safe to drive the car around if I just put the old broken bolts back in (or hell maybe even the new ones?) Obviously I want to take care of this ASAP, but money is a bit tight right now so honestly if this isn't a major issue, I would feel a hell of a lot better letting it pass for now.

As a reminder, this is an auto. I don't think the thing goes past 5K RPM the way I drive.
 

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Mine were in a similar state at 85K miles, I had internment lift, most of the time the exhaust lift worked and intake lift always worked. Found a broken tip on the exhaust side that was in place but the rocker shaft had started to spin a little so I had to pull the exhaust cam to get it out. Tip fell into the shaft but I was able to remove the lift OCV and push it through into rags on the chain side and rotate the shaft back into place. I installed a fresh chain tensioner at the same time.
Driver side was notched but intact, didn't have long until it broke too.

My butthole was so tight hitting lift for the first time after repair that I shit linguine noodles for a week after. Timing on the 2ZZ is a little tricky to see in the car really well and you do not want to be off as in lift it's definitely an interference engine.

The missing tip is probably in the rocker shaft, you may be able to take off the OCV and push it though then rotate the shaft into alignment and just install new bolt. Without pulling a cam or the chain loose! I used a length of 3/16 brake line I think but anything would be fine, just make sure it's caught on the other end and DOES NOT FALL INTO THE TIMING CHAIN.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
The missing tip is probably in the rocker shaft, you may be able to take off the OCV and push it though then rotate the shaft into alignment and just install new bolt. Without pulling a cam or the chain loose! I used a length of 3/16 brake line I think but anything would be fine, just make sure it's caught on the other end and DOES NOT FALL INTO THE TIMING CHAIN.
How exactly would that work? I see where the OCV is on the right of the engine, and I know that's the last step AFTER you take out the cams, but are you saying you could tap the rocker out WITHOUT taking off the cams? Forgive my ignorance anyhow, I'm not that smart with cars still.

As a side note just for the mean time, would I cause any harm just installing the new bolts as is for now?
 

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It's been a while, I forgot the cam sits so closely to the end of the shaft and one end is plugged. Whoops! Maybe a really tiny magnet down the shaft?

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