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2zz nitrous set-up awnsers
Ok I'm tired of receiving PMs about nitrous set-up. I'll make a write up with digital image and main diagram. I'll update when I'll be done with pics and diagram.
Fisrt read and understand :
2zz engine pistons will break at 100hp+ shot
2zz engine is safe with 50hp all stock
1zz engine is safe with 40hp all stock
Engage nitrous in the top powerband on the shift gates only (window switch). This is to have the least nitrous volume per stroke, you don't want to hit 50hp shot at 3000rpm, this means each stroke you are eating the same amount as 100hp shot at 6000rpm, this will create enourmous amount of cylinder pressure, then heat, then knocking. Always remember nitrous does not produce a progressive hp dyno curve it's linear, unlike turbo. Amateur 'tuners' thinks if a turbo can pressurize 5 psi from 3k to 8k, then nitrous is the same, 50 shot 3k to 8k, math error, big one. When you put 5 psi you are adding 30% power to the curve at the rpm point, actually you are adding roughly 20hp. Nitrous is a instant hp gain not a multiplicator, it's +50hp everywhere in the rpm window. So you don't need nitrous at 3k, you need it high, nitrous is only for drag racing application, ask yourself 'when do I shift in drag racing?' awnser : at the highest optimize gates (6200 to 7800 to 8200) So we will engage nitrous in this band but put it a bit lower becuz we don't want to go in the redline it's useless, you only gain .1 or .2 with the 1-2 shift, buit with nitrous there is too many chance to hit the rev cutoff (lean). Stick with those windows , they are proven to be extremely secure :
00-01 2zzge ecu rpm window is 5800 to 7800
02+ 2zzge ecu rpm window is 5800 to 7600
For the installation you will require these parts :
I stick with NX becuz I never add problems with those and my uncle runs a nitrous shop only providing NX parts!
NX wet kit for EFI with one nozzle and a 10lbs bottle.
NX digital TPS switch, not a mecanical one like provided in the kit. (use Dynotune TPS swith for 1/2 price! same part no-name)
Jets : 35/20 for 50 shot (provided in the kit)
Dynotune Heater element (1/2 price, same part!)
MSD digital window switch.
2 switches (on-off)
8 ft of snake wire, 8 wires in, 12 to 16 gauge wire
many electric connectors and lots of shrinks cables
The only things you want to have different then stock is oil and fuel, get 94 octane fuel and make sure you run full synthetic oil 5w50 or 5w40 or 10w50 or 10w40, never under 40 and always good quality (motul or mobil)
If you want to hit 60hp or even 75hp with a 2zz, fallow this, I ran this set-up for meaby 200 1/4 mile runs without any troubles :
1. You need to maximize exhaust exit to get the max nitrous power, think like if you add a turbo, so bigger exit = better. I use WR header modifed 2.5 in collector and Kazuma exhaust 2.5 out. Of course catless and no muffler. Yes it's the loudest set-up, but I ran only 1500 miles in 3 years... for those you are on a daily drive set-up choose something else.
2. We will now remove 100lbs from your car to lower the engine load on the low gears. Remove AC compressor (change strap) , AC condensator, pipes, remove spare tire and tools, remove passenger seat (40lbs alone!) remove rear spoiler, rear wiper, engine plastics, plastics under too. Great, that's a easy .2 gain with no $ invested!
2. a) Want to save a extra 100lbs?, easy, swap those heavy mags for 15'' lighweight type (under 10lbs each) and put Toyo T1R 205/55R15 or 215/50R15. I suggest using 205/50R15 for shorter gearing. Toyos T1R are the lightest street tires available, only 18-19lbs for 205/50R15. so that's a combo of 28lbs (45lbs stock). 17lbs*4= 68lbs saved! Other gains are fidenza flywheel, driver seat (get some cheap fiberglass ones used in track racing, very stiff, very uncomfortable, but very light (10lbs), also use a lawnmower battery (300amps), that's only 15lbs compared to 40lbs stock! They last all year long, I done it, they are able to start the car at -5C. So that's good for a total of another easy 100lbs! good job, you just shaved 0.4 on your 1/4 mile.
Less weight = less engine load = you can use nitrous longer without heat problems.
3. You need 94 octane fuel for less knocking chance. Empty that gas tank, just unbolt the plastic filler and jack the car on the passenger side, now fill it with 94 octane. don't make a 91-94 mix with a heavy shot, only 94 pure.
4. Install a low temp thermostat, go to napa order a 160F or a 170F thermostat, easy to install, just a 10mm wrench under the alternator, go slowly and you will get it without having to remove the alternator!
5. Install +1 colder plugs, NGK copper, never platinium, some say iridium is ok, but I never tried.
Here's the electric diagram :
DIAGRAM
Here's my celica set-up :
PIC inside
PIC engine
I'll update tomorow with the pics and electric diagram
good luck, have fun and race the track not the roads.
Ok I'm tired of receiving PMs about nitrous set-up. I'll make a write up with digital image and main diagram. I'll update when I'll be done with pics and diagram.
Fisrt read and understand :
2zz engine pistons will break at 100hp+ shot
2zz engine is safe with 50hp all stock
1zz engine is safe with 40hp all stock
Engage nitrous in the top powerband on the shift gates only (window switch). This is to have the least nitrous volume per stroke, you don't want to hit 50hp shot at 3000rpm, this means each stroke you are eating the same amount as 100hp shot at 6000rpm, this will create enourmous amount of cylinder pressure, then heat, then knocking. Always remember nitrous does not produce a progressive hp dyno curve it's linear, unlike turbo. Amateur 'tuners' thinks if a turbo can pressurize 5 psi from 3k to 8k, then nitrous is the same, 50 shot 3k to 8k, math error, big one. When you put 5 psi you are adding 30% power to the curve at the rpm point, actually you are adding roughly 20hp. Nitrous is a instant hp gain not a multiplicator, it's +50hp everywhere in the rpm window. So you don't need nitrous at 3k, you need it high, nitrous is only for drag racing application, ask yourself 'when do I shift in drag racing?' awnser : at the highest optimize gates (6200 to 7800 to 8200) So we will engage nitrous in this band but put it a bit lower becuz we don't want to go in the redline it's useless, you only gain .1 or .2 with the 1-2 shift, buit with nitrous there is too many chance to hit the rev cutoff (lean). Stick with those windows , they are proven to be extremely secure :
00-01 2zzge ecu rpm window is 5800 to 7800
02+ 2zzge ecu rpm window is 5800 to 7600
For the installation you will require these parts :
I stick with NX becuz I never add problems with those and my uncle runs a nitrous shop only providing NX parts!
NX wet kit for EFI with one nozzle and a 10lbs bottle.
NX digital TPS switch, not a mecanical one like provided in the kit. (use Dynotune TPS swith for 1/2 price! same part no-name)
Jets : 35/20 for 50 shot (provided in the kit)
Dynotune Heater element (1/2 price, same part!)
MSD digital window switch.
2 switches (on-off)
8 ft of snake wire, 8 wires in, 12 to 16 gauge wire
many electric connectors and lots of shrinks cables
The only things you want to have different then stock is oil and fuel, get 94 octane fuel and make sure you run full synthetic oil 5w50 or 5w40 or 10w50 or 10w40, never under 40 and always good quality (motul or mobil)
If you want to hit 60hp or even 75hp with a 2zz, fallow this, I ran this set-up for meaby 200 1/4 mile runs without any troubles :
1. You need to maximize exhaust exit to get the max nitrous power, think like if you add a turbo, so bigger exit = better. I use WR header modifed 2.5 in collector and Kazuma exhaust 2.5 out. Of course catless and no muffler. Yes it's the loudest set-up, but I ran only 1500 miles in 3 years... for those you are on a daily drive set-up choose something else.
2. We will now remove 100lbs from your car to lower the engine load on the low gears. Remove AC compressor (change strap) , AC condensator, pipes, remove spare tire and tools, remove passenger seat (40lbs alone!) remove rear spoiler, rear wiper, engine plastics, plastics under too. Great, that's a easy .2 gain with no $ invested!
2. a) Want to save a extra 100lbs?, easy, swap those heavy mags for 15'' lighweight type (under 10lbs each) and put Toyo T1R 205/55R15 or 215/50R15. I suggest using 205/50R15 for shorter gearing. Toyos T1R are the lightest street tires available, only 18-19lbs for 205/50R15. so that's a combo of 28lbs (45lbs stock). 17lbs*4= 68lbs saved! Other gains are fidenza flywheel, driver seat (get some cheap fiberglass ones used in track racing, very stiff, very uncomfortable, but very light (10lbs), also use a lawnmower battery (300amps), that's only 15lbs compared to 40lbs stock! They last all year long, I done it, they are able to start the car at -5C. So that's good for a total of another easy 100lbs! good job, you just shaved 0.4 on your 1/4 mile.
Less weight = less engine load = you can use nitrous longer without heat problems.
3. You need 94 octane fuel for less knocking chance. Empty that gas tank, just unbolt the plastic filler and jack the car on the passenger side, now fill it with 94 octane. don't make a 91-94 mix with a heavy shot, only 94 pure.
4. Install a low temp thermostat, go to napa order a 160F or a 170F thermostat, easy to install, just a 10mm wrench under the alternator, go slowly and you will get it without having to remove the alternator!
5. Install +1 colder plugs, NGK copper, never platinium, some say iridium is ok, but I never tried.
Here's the electric diagram :
DIAGRAM
Here's my celica set-up :
PIC inside
PIC engine
I'll update tomorow with the pics and electric diagram
good luck, have fun and race the track not the roads.
I fully agree with him btw 
