NewCelica.org Forum banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So, previously I've replaced both my rear calipers in the past, but never my front, and installed a refurbished master cylinder. I had promised myself to put in a brand new one since I know the refurbished ones seals do not last long.I replaced my refurbished master cylinder with a new one and took off the front calipers to check the seals but I let the brake fluid drain out ...

TLDR

-The master cylinder pressure is good, and I checked this by placing 2 m10x1 bolts in the ports while the car was running and applying pressure to the brake.

-I have no air bubbles coming out of the Bleeder Screws at all and I have no brake, but a good master cylinder. I even have used a Mytivac pump.

-No anti-lock brakes

-no leaks that I have seen

So, my question is how come I have no brakes ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, for the reply.

I'd say 32 oz in a conservative estimate. The fluid is clear in the front, and not really dirty in the rear.

My concern is the front brake caliper rubber seals, but I think it's unrealistic because there is clearly no leaking or am I losing fluid from the reservoir.

-I need to know the hose connected to the fluid reservoir is a variable, and if the master cylinder ports each connect front/rear, or if it's front/front rear/rear.

Thanks, aside from brakes car runs really well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Update

No improvement after bleeding the MC and all 4 wheels a few more times. Not losing brake fluid, and the brake pedal still goes all the way to the floor.

-No ABS components.

-Used Mityvac to test Booster, and I'm thinking it's still good, because it holds pressure. Not that a bad booster causes no brakes.

-MC still good

-Clear brake fluid from the bleeders at the wheels

My only other option is to clamp the brake lines at the wheel to isolate any caliper leaks, using C-clamps and vice-grips, despite the matter.

I might take it to a shop, and see if they can look at it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
To tell you the truth I used m10x1 bolts ......but the pressure from the MC was strong enough to push out the brake fluid through the threads. That being said, I used clear tubing with MC bleed port adapters so I could see the bubbles coming out when I bench bleed ....it seems good and I would imagine if there were problems I would only see bubbles / fluid coming out of 1 port tube.

I'm looking now to try and find correct brass fittings but I don't think the MC is the problem.

But brass fittings need to be used to lock in the fluid. I'm having a hard time finding those fittings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Well, apparently I needed new front calipers. I worked on it again after a freezing snowy rainy stint here in Northern Va.

I clamped the hose line on the 2 front and there is pressure again, but again no pressure when I unclamp it.

The 2 front calipers don't leak ..so this is weird. I'll pick up 2 new ones this weekend.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Fixed

Ok, so, for those that come after me with no brakes ...

You either have a seized caliper slider pin (which is what I had), a Bad Master Cylinder , or air in the lines; and this notwithstanding no ABS components. I had myself had no leaks, but by not replacing crush washers (1 belongs in front to the caliper on the banjo bolt, 1 belongs in back) in the rear calipers can give them, but the front ones have a gasket.

So, if your pedal is going to the floor, after changing brake pads or calipers, make sure you have nothing seizing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
284 Posts
Hardened brake grease on a slider pin got my inside caliper stuck on the back side of a disk, wearing pad fast.

What is the correct sequence of bleeding the 4 calipers?
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top