NewCelica.org Forum banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 20 of 263 Posts

·
Daddy Daycare
Joined
·
20,295 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
OCV Strainer Cleaning Guide (vvt-i & vvtl-i)

I have a day of today (Flagday here) so I decided to make this thread about the Oil Control Valves=OCV.
Most of you know already but for those who don't:
The 1ZZ-FE engine in the GT has variable valve timing only, or VVT-i.
The 2ZZ-GE engine in the GT-S has variable valve timing AND lift, or VVTL-i.
Consequently GT has one OCV, GT-S has two OCVs.

First the Timing OCV:
This is its location on the head of a 2ZZ, more or less the same location on a 1ZZ.

This is how it looks like.


To help keep particles out, the OCV has a metal mesh strainer to filter the oil going to it. This is its location:Behind that bolt in this pic.

If you remove that bolt the strainer is located in that hole, but this one doesn't have it as I used it in my engine and the old one fell and got lost.


As part of regular maintenance I would recommend checking/cleaning the strainer every 30k or so. This guide was written using a spare that I had lying around, so for those who need to do this on the car, here are a few tips/pointers to make the work easier:

It is a pain to get to the VVT-i filter as it's located between the alternator and the head. If you don't have slimline wrenches or low profile ratchets and small fingers it will be difficult (though not impossible) if you don't remove the alternator, so plan this service when you have to change your drivebelt so that you can at least loosen and move the alternator out of the way to make things easier.

To get the OCV itself out, the oil breather tube going to the valvecover has to be moved out of the way. Unbolt it from the valvecover and remove the bolt that attaches it and the oil level dipstick tube to the intake manifold. Once you've done these you can move the breather tube enough to remove the OCV.
 

·
Daddy Daycare
Joined
·
20,295 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Now the Lift OCV

The Lift OCV and housing is located on the battery side of the Celica head. To get to it you'll have to remove the battery, move the ECU aside, remove the VVTL-i plastic engine cover, temporarily disconnect the hoses that run from the intake manifold to the valvecover and remove the bolts holding the fuel line and wire harness so you can move the a bit to gain easier access.

This is the GT-S head with Lift OCV location:

Here's a close-up.

The OCV housing. The two bolts in this pic are where the groundwires go.

This is what you see when you remove the housing:

For those who wonder, the dirty electrical connector below the housing is the Coolant Temperature Sensor.


Just like the timing OCV, the Lift OCV also has a strainer. And in case someone is wondering, the timing and lift strainers are not interchangeable. I CAN confirm that for '00 and '01 cars the OCVs are the same for both VVT-i and VVTL-i. Later model years will have to check to make sure.
Here's the Lift strainer:





As part of regular maintenance clean these components every 30K or so, both OCV housing and strainer. There have been countless cases of people with lift not working because the strainer was clogged enough to hinder flow of oil to the rocker shafts.

Enjoy!
 

·
Electromagnetic Wave :-h
Joined
·
15,294 Posts
Sticky for GSBoek!
If ya change your oil frequently... you'll probably never have to clean them;)
 

·
Daddy Daycare
Joined
·
20,295 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Of course this thread would not be complete without adding the infamous VVT-i related noise. Excuse the poor quality vid I put on. Watch how the tractor noise goes away when I pull the VVT-i OCV plug.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0PEBIkOaYXw

On page 2 of this thread is a detailed description of what causes the noise.
 

·
Daddy Daycare
Joined
·
20,295 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
The reason why could be a number of things:
-At idle and low rpm, the ECU will adjust the VVT-i cam sprocket for maximum retardation of the valve timing to improve scavenging. The possible source of the noise is the sprocket internals and cam having some play because of wear during the years. It could also be related to oil supply issues at idle and lowrpm. This noise only occurs when the engine is around normal operating temperature when the oil is thicker and the components have expanded, never occurs on the 1st temperature bar, even on the second bar it is very faint, then at normal temperature it's what you hear in the vid.
-Another thing could be slack in the timing chain, and as the VVT-i is adjusting it causes the chain to make some noise.
-And then again you could be having both the above occuring at the same time. The noise is random, sometimes it isn't there at all, and the only thing I get is some faint valve ticking, then at other times it is quite loud, like in the vid. No CELs, no issues otherwise, just the noise sometimes. After I cleaned the strainer for the VVT-i there was a marked improvement for a while. I have changed both the VVT-i sporcket and the OCV but the noise still recurs sometimes. My next oil change I will be switching from Castrol GTX 10w30 dino oil to Castrol Syntec Blend 10w30 and see if that has any effect on the noise. I'll keep ya'll posted about this. I remember that the noise wasn't there when I was on full synthetic Mobil1.
There was a TSB on the VVT-i sprocket once if I'm not mistaken but it wasn't directly related to this noise, it was more related to a CEL.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
145 Posts
BSboek, any new updates? My 2000 Celica GT-S makes the same sound. Mine does the same thing. The ticking sound happens only at regular temp or after a long drive. I'm worried that my engine is gone break down...
 

·
Daddy Daycare
Joined
·
20,295 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
The next update will be when I do the oil change and switch to Syntec Blend, which is due in about two weeks at the rate my mileage is going. If it serves you as any consolation, I have had that sound since september last year.
 

·
Electromagnetic Wave :-h
Joined
·
15,294 Posts
Gonna go full Syntec after the blend or stay with the blend? I found the full did a better job cleaning things out.....

See how it goes.... Maybe work up to the full..... do 3 or 4 changes with full & then back to the blend? I know the full is expensive... & probably more so for you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,235 Posts
kind of a newb question..but can u clean the filters without having to drain the oil? (since its not circulating at the top of the engine, rather, its sitting in the oil pan...?)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,235 Posts
also, by rights, shouldnt you replace the gasket on OCV housing everytime you take it off?
 

·
Daddy Daycare
Joined
·
20,295 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
2way said:
Gonna go full Syntec after the blend or stay with the blend? I found the full did a better job cleaning things out.....

See how it goes.... Maybe work up to the full..... do 3 or 4 changes with full & then back to the blend? I know the full is expensive... & probably more so for you.
I don't mind the expenses, not a problem for me, I'll probably work up to the full, do 2-3 oil changes with the blend and see how it goes and then switch to the full.

kaminaricelica7 said:
kind of a newb question..but can u clean the filters without having to drain the oil? (since its not circulating at the top of the engine, rather, its sitting in the oil pan...?)
Yep, you don't have to drain the oil to clean them, but I'd recommend doing the job when you plan an oil change anyways.
kaminaricelica7 said:
also, by rights, shouldnt you replace the gasket on OCV housing everytime you take it off?
By rights yes, you should replace the gasket, but I have reused mine twice so far without any issues.
 
1 - 20 of 263 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top