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Electromagnetic Wave :-h
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took 2 of them to put the belt back on the alternator. Just sayin'....
I can do that by myself quite easily. Breaker bar makes all the difference. I can probably change the belt in <0.5hr including setup & time finding tools. ;)
 

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Daddy Daycare
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Discussion Starter · #222 ·
I never had any problems doing the belt all by myself, without a breaker bar. :D
 

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Daddy Daycare
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Discussion Starter · #223 · (Edited)
As promised, here is the update on how the newest camgear I installed in 2008 fared during 4 years of use (and some abuse).

As reported somewhere in this thread I opened the camgear after one year of use (2009) and reported some slight wear at the lockpin pit edge and said back then that I expect it to continue wearing. I installed new cams 2 weeks ago and went ahead and bought a brand new VVT-i camgear to go with the new cams.

Here are the pics with my new findings on the updated camgear 13050-22012:



As you can see this camgear still looks fresh and clean, unlike the old one I dissected on page 2 (I put the blame on the previous owners for that :chuckles: ) that came with the car (13050-22011). For completeness a picture of the old one.





Here's the cover plate, hardly any wear on this one, unlike the old one below it.






Pic of the housing and vanes.



Clean inside, no significant wear marks either on the surface where the vanes move to advance or retard. Notice that the apex oil seals are a different color (yellow) than the old camgear which has some dark burgundy seals. Presumably the reason for the update of the camgear, to ensure better sealing, wear characteristics and longer life. Old one below for comparison:


Also notice that two of the fixed housing vanes (those on the outer ring) have slightly different shapes to them on the newer camgear.



Now comes the interesting part, the sprocket plate with the lockpin pit. New one:



Old one:



As you can see, the new one shows the same kind of wear as the old one. When I opened the new one in 2009, the wear was roughly a 1/4 of what it is now. Considering the old camgear was in the car for roughly the same amount of time as the new one, it is safe to assume that this will continue to be a problem even with the newest camgear. The updated part isn't nearly as noisy on cold start up and at idle as the old one was though, so there's definitely progress there.

These can likely be fixed by re-welding in new material and milling the pit back to original specs, so I'm going to hold on to the three gears I have and let a shop try with the one in worst condition first.



Vanes in the full advanced position, ready to reassemble.




Camgear reassembled in unlocked position. Notice the two dots are not aligned. That is how you know if the camgear is unlocked. Compare to the pic at the beginning of this post where the camgear is in the locked position.





Additional notes: I ran this camgear exclusively on conventional oil, Castrol GTX 10W40 for the full 4 years. The brand new one I have been running for two weeks now I have been doing so with Castrol Magnatec 10W30. We'll see in 4 years, so help me God, how it fares. :chuckles:
 

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Electromagnetic Wave :-h
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Nice work. You ought to send the pics to Toyota Research. ;)
 

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Turbo 2zz
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I thought I'd make my contribution to the thread here. It appears as though there was a third revision to the vvti cam gear design. Part number 13050-0D010 (made in Hungary)







I've had to replace mine altogether after my experience, which is documented in the thread below:
http://www.newcelica.org/forums/showthread.php?t=323863
just checked an online toyota site and they're saying that PN is updated

Old Part Number 13050-0D010
New Part Number 1305022012
 

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Daddy Daycare
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Discussion Starter · #227 ·
Yes, the 22012 was the final update.
 

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Hi,
After changing my oil last week I got a P1349 code. It disappeared on it's own, but has since returned and disappeared twice. The car seems fine, other than an occasional dip to around 200rpm while idling. It's never stalled, and always bounces back. It does sound a little rougher than I think it should at around 65-75mph though.

I pulled the OCV to check the strainer but when I got it out it didn't have one, it wasn't inside the housing that it sits within either - is this a problem? Is this the problem causing the P1349 code??

It's a 1.8 GT. 1zz Engine.
 

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Daddy Daycare
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Discussion Starter · #229 ·
Just making sure we're on the same page: The strainer on the 1ZZ engine is located below the OCV, behind the bolt plug at the corner of the head. If you pulled the bolt plug and didn't find anything in there, then it could be causing the P1349.

The noise at 65-75 is probably unrelated.
 

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Yeah - my bad. I realised the strainer was in a different location after I posted that.
I have since pulled it and cleaned it. No noticable difference other than RPM is possibly 50-100 higher...though this could just be placebo in my mind.
 

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Daddy Daycare
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Discussion Starter · #232 ·
Could possibly restrict oil flow to the rockers. We've had at least one other person reporting this in the thread. I don't remember if it was on page 2 or 3.
 

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Daddy Daycare
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Discussion Starter · #234 ·
I hope they didn't also hone the cylinders.
 

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I dont know , my reason for doing these things are because my car was being boggy some..and theres been some white smoke comming out the exhaust.

The last time I tried to hit lift. (way back last year) I remember it going to hit lift , and then the car cut off and It wouldnt crank back and I was on the side of the road, unplugging the battery and taking out the spark plugs and such..and finally got the car to crank again.
 

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it seems me and the other guy had the same issue..we both have remanufactured engines and both with backwards strainers. so I cleaned it and turned it around today. What exactly should I be looking at next to make sure there is no damage?

The other good thing is that my car has hardly been driven that much since the engine was changed over. Im not saying it wasnt driven but just not a whole lot. def not everyday.
 

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Sojack_GTS
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Alright I got a bit of a situation and was hoping for a little advice.
To start off, I have a 02 Celica GTS and I was driving home one night only to watch my CEL come on after about 5 minutes of driving . I went into work the next day and used our OBDII scanner to see that it was a OCV malfunction. (I don't remember the exact code and if it was open or closed malfunction; this was several months ago and I haven't driven the car for that amount of time due to money issues and the next explanation of my real problem.) That same day I checked my CEL at work, I was driving down the highway around 80mph and without going over 6800 rpm, but still enough to hit the lift and my car simply shuts off while still driving on the highway. I cranked it back up seconds later with no problem while the car was still rolling then it seemed as if I had lost almost all of the power in the engine and it cut off again and would NOT crank. So I pulled over, checked all my fluids which were fine, all of the gauges were fine, and I had just changed my oil a week before. ( I always use Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w-30 with a Wix oil filter. ) After several minutes of sitting on the side of the highway i tried to crank the car again and it started with a decently loud knock from the dead center of the top of the engine. At first I was thinking I may have slung a rod because of the knock and have been expecting to need a new engine or a rebuild, but I didn't know much about the OCV at the time and now I'm wondering it the whole problem may be the oil pump? I want to say the CEL was a Closed OCV Malfunction and if that is the case could it have only been knocking due to a lack of oil in the top half of the motor? Any advice would be greatly appreciated I miss driving my Celica :( and I only now have the financial stability to get any work that may need to be done.
 

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Daddy Daycare
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Discussion Starter · #238 ·
That does not sound good. Did the oil light come on at any point during the ordeal?
 

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Electromagnetic Wave :-h
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