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Good thread, keep us posted. By the way, How small is the strainer for the timing OCV? Is it a pain to get out of the hole behind the bolt?
 

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Daddy Daycare
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Discussion Starter #22
Lengthwise it's about 1 1/4 inch, maybe 3/8 accros and believe me it is a pain to get even the bolt itself out if you don't remove the alternator. Been there, done that and the original filter fell out into the nether regions of the engine and I never found it back, must have gotten stuck behind the A/C compressor or something.
 

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Electromagnetic Wave :-h
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GSBoek said:
believe me it is a pain to get even the bolt itself out if you don't remove the alternator.
:werd:
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Update on this:
Switch from Castrol GTX to Castrol Syntec Blend has no effect on the noise, it's pretty much the same. So far my findings are that the noise is most likely related to how much the ECU adjusts the VVT-i cam sprocket. The reason for that conclusion is because the noise happens on a regular basis but totally random.
It's highly pronounced when engine is at full operating temperature. I have managed to make the noise dissapear right away by giving the engine a quick rev to 2k from idle. After sitting a few minutes at idle it comes back, then after a while it goes away all by itself and the engine is unusually quiet then, with hardly any valve chatter at all, only some injector noise.
 

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Here is something that you all should think about in this thread. If you need to replace your ocv and you have to go through Toyota, make sure you have about $122 as that is how much the part is. Another thing to, if you are using Castrol and you take off your valve cover and look at things under it you will notice a little bit of sludge, even with the full syn. For some reason Castrol does this to Toyota engines. I use Valvaline and do not have that noise what so ever. Just some things to think about. Back on track though to add to this thread. If you get a cel code of P1656, or Manufacturer's Only Code, then you might want to try to find a new OCV for VVT. Not VVTL. The code for the VVTL is P1657. I have recently found this out the hard way. You can still drive the car with the VVT messed up, you just wont be able to romp on the gas and get it to high rpm's as this will definitely ruin your engine. But your car will still be drivable though until you can get the new ocv. Good thing this thread was already made and stickied cause that is what I was about to do until I saw this thread. Blitzceli recommended me to do it to help out others. But I did my research on it though last night. If you don't have $122 to spend then you might want to try to find a wrecked GT-s or a Lotus Elise, since they have the same engine, the OCV's are interchangeable and that is coming from an ASC Toyota mechanic. The tractor noise though comes from the VVT OCV, from that little pin that you see in the pic of where it was taken out at the top of the page. The way it works is when your ECU is timing your crankshaft, it is moving that little pin back and forth on the cam allowing the engine to utilize variable valve timing. The only way to solve this is using a high grade 5w30 full syn oil such as Valvaline or paying out the a$$ for Royal Purple. Hope this all helps with the thread discussion
 

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Electromagnetic Wave :-h
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Castrol, even synthetic, is basically dino & will, like any dino oil, leave a small film on the valvecover. That isn't a problem... and it isn't really sludge. I pulled my VVT screen, it was whistle clean, and I use Syntec w/o a problem. Doubt it? Just check my gallery for the oil analysis results.
GSBoek said:
I have changed both the VVT-i sporcket and the OCV but the noise still recurs sometimes.
For the "tractor" noise, you'll note that he replaced the OCV and it wasn't the problem. As I recall, the problem was the VVT assembly and its replacement is covered in another thread.

The engine was built to run on dino... just change your oil. Also, the OCV's, while interchangeable, were changed on the '02+ 2ZZ.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
neotestme said:
Here is something that you all should think about in this thread. If you need to replace your ocv and you have to go through Toyota, make sure you have about $122 as that is how much the part is.
If that's what you paid for one OCV they sure ripped you a new one. Last time I checked the price for the OCV was $63.
neotestme said:
Another thing to, if you are using Castrol and you take off your valve cover and look at things under it you will notice a little bit of sludge, even with the full syn. For some reason Castrol does this to Toyota engines.
Where does that info come from? Cuz I have no issues with sludge in my engine at all. I don't see Castrol having anything to do with it.
neotestme said:
I use Valvaline and do not have that noise what so ever. Just some things to think about.
Plenty of people using Castrol too with no noises so you'll have to be a bit more specific in drawing a relationship between Castrol and the noise if that is what you imply.
neotestme said:
Back on track though to add to this thread. If you get a cel code of P1656, or Manufacturer's Only Code, then you might want to try to find a new OCV for VVT. Not VVTL. The code for the VVTL is P1657. I have recently found this out the hard way. You can still drive the car with the VVT messed up, you just wont be able to romp on the gas and get it to high rpm's as this will definitely ruin your engine. But your car will still be drivable though until you can get the new ocv. Good thing this thread was already made and stickied cause that is what I was about to do until I saw this thread. Blitzceli recommended me to do it to help out others. But I did my research on it though last night. If you don't have $122 to spend then you might want to try to find a wrecked GT-s or a Lotus Elise, since they have the same engine, the OCV's are interchangeable and that is coming from an ASC Toyota mechanic. The tractor noise though comes from the VVT OCV, from that little pin that you see in the pic of where it was taken out at the top of the page. The way it works is when your ECU is timing your crankshaft, it is moving that little pin back and forth on the cam allowing the engine to utilize variable valve timing. The only way to solve this is using a high grade 5w30 full syn oil such as Valvaline or paying out the a$$ for Royal Purple. Hope this all helps with the thread discussion
Thnx for your input. There have indeed been reports of people driving around with the VVT-i OCV disconnected with no real issues in driveability. You are one of the first to mention hitting higher rpms though, that's some good info to confirm our beliefs that with a VVT-i fault code the ECU is probably sending things into safe mode.
 

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Well, every dealer that I called down here in Alabama said that it was $122 for the ocv vvt. Oh well, they knew I was a soldier and we almost always get ripped off. LOL...no biggy. But the reason I said that about the Castrol oil is because a friend of mine has a Celica gt-s and ran nothing but castrol and changed his oil every 3,000 miles. He always wound up having sludge and the tractor noise. He then switched over to Royal Purple (after taking everything apart and cleaning) and the noise and sludge went away. I wasn't implying that the castrol oil was the cause. I apologize if it came off that way, some times I say one thing, but mean something totally different. When I said that the noise is from the OCV pin, I got that info from several different techs at toyota. They said that some times ocv's make that noise and some times they don't. And yes the ECU does put your engine in kind of a safe mode. If you have driven on a bad OCV, then you would have noticed that if you tried to hit lift, your car will really hesitate like something fierce from around 4,500 all the way to 8,000 and get really loud like you were running an open header or something. But I just got through driving for a total of like 6 hours on my bad OCV without any problems, cept it didn't have any pick up what so ever. But what do you expect when your VVT is not working....LOL....but I am glad that you guys thought some of my input was helpful....
 

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Discussion Starter #30
More info thnx to 2way
2way said:
GSBoek, I did find this:
I also recall something in the VVT TSB about the lock pin. Could you have a bad, damaged, or worn one (or two)?
When hydraulic pressure is not applied to the VVT-i controller immediately after the engine has been
started, the lock pin locks the movement of the VVT-i controller to prevent a knocking noise.
I think the lock pin warning in the TSB was something like this:
Camshaft timing gear assembly occasionally shifts to the
retard side abruptly, if the air compression of the advanced
side path is released before retard side paths. It often
causes the breakage of the lock pin.
I'm seriously wondering if it isn't the VVT turning (w/o locking) before enough oil pressure builds up.

I also ran across this nice pic:
 

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Replacing the OCV

I have a 2002 Echo with the VVT-i and it looks identical to what is shown in this thread. I apparently broke the electrical connector on the OCV whilst using a screwdriver to put tension on the alternator to tighten the belt. I immediately got a Check Engine light. After a check it does indicate a faulty OCV. I went to pull my OCV off my 2000 Toyota Echo Parts car, and they did not look 100% identical. I removed the bolt shown in the photos and attempted to pull out the OCV. I could turn it and it was loose, but it would not rotate 360 degrees due to the bracket hitting the manifold. Finally I tried putting a little pressure on the OCV with a tiny flat head to try to break the seal and the OCV broke into two pieces. One piece still firmly stuck now inside the engine. NICE! My question is. IS there some trick to pulling out the OCV? It looks to me like it should just pop out once you remove the bolt from the bracket. I only see an O-Ring holding it in. OR am I mistaken? I didn't want to try to remove the OCV from my 2002 Echo since it still appears to run and drive fine and I didn't want the same thing to happen. Now I have 2 defective OCV's! Any ideas how to get the bottom part of the OCV out of the hole now that it is broke? I don't want to push it into the engine!
Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #32
You're correct, it shouldn't stick in there, once you removed the bolt it should have easily slid out. First time I hear of someone breaking the OCV in two. People have broken the connectors, but I never heard of the solenoid breaking away from the oil control housing/rod if that's what you're referring to.
 

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GSBoek said:
You're correct, it shouldn't stick in there, once you removed the bolt it should have easily slid out. First time I hear of someone breaking the OCV in two. People have broken the connectors, but I never heard of the solenoid breaking away from the oil control housing/rod if that's what you're referring to.
I was very gentle with it. I tried to move it back and forth to get it come out to no avail. I'll have to take a picture of it broken and now stuck in the engine. BTW. Did I mention this donor car has 209,000 miles on it? ;)

Thanks for your quick reply BTW - Very nice thread. It took a while googling to find this thread which is exactly what I was looking for with PICTURES of the OCV being taken out!
 

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2001 celica gt. i got a question, well i've been having this problem for a while. when my motor is cold it makes a slight ticking noise, and when it warms up to normal temperature it goes away, but when i go to drive it and keep it at a steady speed while keeping the rpms around 2500 or higher, i get a tapping noise like a valve is tapping (i had the valves adjusted about 6 months ago) and while accelerating. would the ocv have anything to do with that?
 

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Discussion Starter #35
The 2ZZ does have a noisy valvetrain, but as far as my experience with the 1ZZ, 3ZZ and 4ZZ engines (which have a different architecture than the 2ZZ) they are not known for being noisy. Chances are the OCV doesn't have much if anything to do with the tapping you experience. At certain rpms the mechanical noises just become more pronounced because of resonant frequencies.
The best advice I can give is to try to recreate the noise while listening underhood and rev it to the rpm it usually happens. Then unplug the OCV and do the same and see if the noise goes away or changes. If it doesn't you know it's not the OCV. If it does chances are your OCV is fine but yout VVT-i controller is causing it. Which even then could mean it's just a noise under normal operating conditions of the controller.

By the way you describe things however it sound to me like an ordinary valve tap.
 

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So, to fix the noise...what is involved? and is it worth the trouble?

I just wonder if a brand new Celica would make that noise, ive never heard a brand new one...
 

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Of course!
 

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Discussion Starter #39
kaminaricelica7 said:
So, to fix the noise...what is involved? and is it worth the trouble?

I just wonder if a brand new Celica would make that noise, ive never heard a brand new one...
We haven't fully resolved the issue yet, but everything seems to be pointing towards the pre-update VVT-i controller and lockpin. From info gathered it's the '00 and '01 GT-S that have this issue. Brandnew of course they don't make any noises. We'll have updates soon though.
 

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chickenwarrior said:
I was very gentle with it. I tried to move it back and forth to get it come out to no avail. I'll have to take a picture of it broken and now stuck in the engine. BTW. Did I mention this donor car has 209,000 miles on it? ;)

Thanks for your quick reply BTW - Very nice thread. It took a while googling to find this thread which is exactly what I was looking for with PICTURES of the OCV being taken out!
Get THIS! Now I ordered a brand new OCV. I went to remove the OCV in my 2002 Echo and guess what. The OCV broke into two pieces AGAIN! Now the OCV from the O-Ring back into the manifold is STUCK! What gives. This is the second one of these to break in 2 weeks. Is there something holding these in the engine? Do the need to be rotates a certain degree to come out? Now I have no idea how I am going to get that remaining piece of of me engine(s). Any ideas or help would be appreciated! Also, my 2002 Echo only has 87,000 miles on it.
 
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