For the "tractor" noise, you'll note that he replaced the OCV and it wasn't the problem. As I recall, the problem was the VVT assembly and its replacement is covered in another thread.GSBoek said:I have changed both the VVT-i sporcket and the OCV but the noise still recurs sometimes.
If that's what you paid for one OCV they sure ripped you a new one. Last time I checked the price for the OCV was $63.neotestme said:Here is something that you all should think about in this thread. If you need to replace your ocv and you have to go through Toyota, make sure you have about $122 as that is how much the part is.
Where does that info come from? Cuz I have no issues with sludge in my engine at all. I don't see Castrol having anything to do with it.neotestme said:Another thing to, if you are using Castrol and you take off your valve cover and look at things under it you will notice a little bit of sludge, even with the full syn. For some reason Castrol does this to Toyota engines.
Plenty of people using Castrol too with no noises so you'll have to be a bit more specific in drawing a relationship between Castrol and the noise if that is what you imply.neotestme said:I use Valvaline and do not have that noise what so ever. Just some things to think about.
Thnx for your input. There have indeed been reports of people driving around with the VVT-i OCV disconnected with no real issues in driveability. You are one of the first to mention hitting higher rpms though, that's some good info to confirm our beliefs that with a VVT-i fault code the ECU is probably sending things into safe mode.neotestme said:Back on track though to add to this thread. If you get a cel code of P1656, or Manufacturer's Only Code, then you might want to try to find a new OCV for VVT. Not VVTL. The code for the VVTL is P1657. I have recently found this out the hard way. You can still drive the car with the VVT messed up, you just wont be able to romp on the gas and get it to high rpm's as this will definitely ruin your engine. But your car will still be drivable though until you can get the new ocv. Good thing this thread was already made and stickied cause that is what I was about to do until I saw this thread. Blitzceli recommended me to do it to help out others. But I did my research on it though last night. If you don't have $122 to spend then you might want to try to find a wrecked GT-s or a Lotus Elise, since they have the same engine, the OCV's are interchangeable and that is coming from an ASC Toyota mechanic. The tractor noise though comes from the VVT OCV, from that little pin that you see in the pic of where it was taken out at the top of the page. The way it works is when your ECU is timing your crankshaft, it is moving that little pin back and forth on the cam allowing the engine to utilize variable valve timing. The only way to solve this is using a high grade 5w30 full syn oil such as Valvaline or paying out the a$$ for Royal Purple. Hope this all helps with the thread discussion
2way said:GSBoek, I did find this:
I also recall something in the VVT TSB about the lock pin. Could you have a bad, damaged, or worn one (or two)?
I think the lock pin warning in the TSB was something like this:When hydraulic pressure is not applied to the VVT-i controller immediately after the engine has been
started, the lock pin locks the movement of the VVT-i controller to prevent a knocking noise.
I'm seriously wondering if it isn't the VVT turning (w/o locking) before enough oil pressure builds up.Camshaft timing gear assembly occasionally shifts to the
retard side abruptly, if the air compression of the advanced
side path is released before retard side paths. It often
causes the breakage of the lock pin.
I also ran across this nice pic:
I was very gentle with it. I tried to move it back and forth to get it come out to no avail. I'll have to take a picture of it broken and now stuck in the engine. BTW. Did I mention this donor car has 209,000 miles on it?GSBoek said:You're correct, it shouldn't stick in there, once you removed the bolt it should have easily slid out. First time I hear of someone breaking the OCV in two. People have broken the connectors, but I never heard of the solenoid breaking away from the oil control housing/rod if that's what you're referring to.
We haven't fully resolved the issue yet, but everything seems to be pointing towards the pre-update VVT-i controller and lockpin. From info gathered it's the '00 and '01 GT-S that have this issue. Brandnew of course they don't make any noises. We'll have updates soon though.kaminaricelica7 said:So, to fix the noise...what is involved? and is it worth the trouble?
I just wonder if a brand new Celica would make that noise, ive never heard a brand new one...
Get THIS! Now I ordered a brand new OCV. I went to remove the OCV in my 2002 Echo and guess what. The OCV broke into two pieces AGAIN! Now the OCV from the O-Ring back into the manifold is STUCK! What gives. This is the second one of these to break in 2 weeks. Is there something holding these in the engine? Do the need to be rotates a certain degree to come out? Now I have no idea how I am going to get that remaining piece of of me engine(s). Any ideas or help would be appreciated! Also, my 2002 Echo only has 87,000 miles on it.chickenwarrior said:I was very gentle with it. I tried to move it back and forth to get it come out to no avail. I'll have to take a picture of it broken and now stuck in the engine. BTW. Did I mention this donor car has 209,000 miles on it?
Thanks for your quick reply BTW - Very nice thread. It took a while googling to find this thread which is exactly what I was looking for with PICTURES of the OCV being taken out!