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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Offset guide for 7th gen Celica's... Australia attempts to end "Will this fit"...

Well I made this a while ago on a Celica site in Australia. I decided I might aswell post it here on NC.org too since I went into all the effort.

"Okay since I am at home sick right now I have abit of "free time" so I have decided to make this thread to try and clarify what wheel offsets are and how they are calculated. Also most importantly how they make or break a car and hopefully if I educate even only just one member... That is one less offset fail car we have to deal with in society.

So what is offset? Good question, well its very simple wheel offset is the distance from its hub-mounting surface to the centre-line of the wheel. Simple explanation of this is to describe 3 general types of offset.
Positive offset: Where the hub-mounting surface is towards the front aka face of the rim.


Zero offset: Where the hub-mounting surface is where the wheel centre-line is.


Negative offset: Where the hub-mounting surface is towards the rear of the wheel.


You will find the offset of your wheels with a stamp (ET) somewhere on the rim on most wheels, otherwise you should see them on a sticker. If still no luck... Congratulations you are about to learn how calculate offset on your wheels! It is just a simple mathematics calculation.
Offset = Backspace - (Width/2). This will give you offset in inches, then multiply that total by 25.4 to get the normal measurement in mm.

For example:
We put the wheel face down and put a piece of wood across the back of it to achieve a flat surface. We then measure down to the hub-mounting surface. The measurement reads 5". Therefore the backspace is 5". We then measure the overall diameter of the wheel (lip to lip) and it reads 8.5"

Now here is the fun part, we put them into the formula:
5" - (8.5" divided by 2) = 0.75"... Then 0.75" x 25.4 = 19.05 round this figure = an offset of +19mm.

Congratulations you are now as smart as an online calculator.

Now you are all getting pretty sick of words right? Well here are some pictures after all a picture is worth a thousand words :).

Stock rims - 16x6.5 +39 (205/50/R16 Advan tyres). Stock body with minor lowering via Eibach Pro-kit, no significant alignment settings.


G.Max - 17x7 +42 (205/45/R17 Kumho 712 tyres). Same suspension setup with trial fitting of a body kit notice the rear wheels... This is what people nickname offset fail.


5Zigen - 17x7.5 +35 (225/45/R17 Bridgestone RE01). Here's a friends/old members car, the car had mild camber settings and was lowered with coilovers. (Closer to a decent fitment).


SSR SP1 - 17x7.5 +30 (215/45/R17 Bridgestone Potenza GIII). This picture shows how the rears are filled much nicer than the stock and also the G.Max wheels. (Still not ideal). This was still the same setup as the G.Max wheels.


SSR SP1 - 17x7.5 +30 (215/45/R17 Bridgestone Potenza GIII). This picture shows the fronts too, the same setup was used as per the previous picture.


SSR SP1 - 17x7.5 +30 (215/45/R17 Bridgestone Potenza GIII). This picture shows the changes to the stance with the same wheels. This picture was taken after coilovers and all my other suspension upgrades... Alignment here was at ~ -2.2 deg front, and -1.7 rear.


Work Meister - 17x8 +23 (Falken Ziex 215/45/R17 tyres *small footprint*). This was the same suspension modifications to the above SSR picture however alignment settings here were at ~-1.9 deg front, and -1.4 deg rear. Please note these tyres have quite a small footprint thus the tyres were stretched more resulting in a further dramatised look on the amount of offsets.





Work Meister - 17x8 +23 (plus 5mm spacer effectively 17x8 +18) (Bridgestone Potenza RE001 215/45/R17 tyres *large footprint*). These are recent pictures the new tyres are alot larger in footprint than the Falkens so most the stretch is now gone. Camber is at -2.0 deg at the front, -1.5 deg at the rear.



Latest update:
Work Meister - 17x8 +23 (plus 20mm bolt on spacers effectively 17x8 +3) (Bridgestone Potenza RE001 215/45/R17 tyres *large footprint*) Camber is at -2.5 deg at the front, -2.2 deg at the rear.


Thankyou."

P.S. One more thing to note none of my configurations needs rolling of the guards up until the fitting of the RE001 tyres. Since then I had to roll the inner lips of the rear guards (pictured) no more rubbing has been happening.
 

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Very nice thread, I vote this to be stickied :)

But a wheel having 0 offset, doesn't it mean that the backspace should be exactly half of the wheel's width? AFAIK, offset is measured from the exact center of the wheel's width, which is half of it.

But hey, CMIIW :)
 

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u have the nicest offset and definately one of the nicest celi's on the site... i'd kill for that look

keep up the good work!
 

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STICKY THIS!


i want your wheel set up:sadpace:
 

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is NSFW
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Nice write up, 17x8 and 17x9 35 PCD work meisters are my next set of wheels if i dont pick up an s14.
 

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looks good but need to go lower. still too high =/
 

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Ok, so I guess my weds SA-70 17x7.5 with +45 offsets arent going to ride so well??

That really sucks my rubber on there is worth as much as rims...RRRrrrrrrr.

Any input??? What should I do?? Sell and get new rims?? Brand new rims and rubber was waiting till spring to put them on...but now??
 

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Oh yeah I am on Tein Ha struts I believe they lower the car 1.7 front and rear??

Can anyone confirm that, the instructions are in japenese and I have posted questions about this previously with little to no help.
 

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SPREAD THE HATE
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STICKYSTICKYSTICKY!
Thank you for this, btw
explained everything perfectly
:thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
u have the nicest offset and definately one of the nicest celi's on the site... i'd kill for that look

keep up the good work!
Thanks mate, it took awhile and quite some $$$ for me to be "satisfied" with the outcome haha.

I think the 17x7.5 +35 looks pretty damn good and +30. Your setup with +23 looks too far out IMO.
Each to their own, but personally I love the "hellaflush" look.

looks good but need to go lower. still too high =/
Haha the Bilsteins won’t go much lower unfortunately, this is my suspension setup.

"Bilstein PSS coilovers, C-One polyutherane steering bushes, C-One rear polyutherane pillow mounts, C-One front strut brace, C-One performance lower brace bars, Whiteline front lower control arm brace, Whiteline front heavy duty adjustable sway bar, Whiteline rear extra heavy duty adjustable sway bar, Whiteline front caster anti-lift kit, Whiteline front camber bolt kit, Whiteline rear roll couple adjuster kit."

Ok, so I guess my weds SA-70 17x7.5 with +45 offsets arent going to ride so well??

That really sucks my rubber on there is worth as much as rims...RRRrrrrrrr.

Any input??? What should I do?? Sell and get new rims?? Brand new rims and rubber was waiting till spring to put them on...but now??
SA-70 is a nice rim. However those offsets are quite high and it will tuck in more than the SSR’s I had which is 17x7.5 +30. If you want to keep them maybe look into 25mm bolt on spacers, they will not be “hellaflush” but it will be decent :)

STICKYSTICKYSTICKY!
Thank you for this, btw
explained everything perfectly
:thumbup:
Haha no problems mate, hopefully it will help you guys to achieve tough stance easier without withering away $$$ through trial and error.

So… Who can sticky this :p

awesome thread, how many mm is the car lowered on coils in the last pic?
If I recall correctly. The front Bilstein coilovers are 2 turns from minimum, and the rears are ~6 turns from minimum. I will check next time and post it up :)

If you are talking finger space between fender and tyre it is approximately 1.5 fingers at the front and 1 at the rear.

How large of spacers can you get away with before changing stock lug bolts??
With the front’s the most I could put on was 5mm slip ons, the rear’s I can run 8mm. I am unsure if US 7th gens have different stud length or not.

However I do not recommend anything more that 5mm on all four corners if retaining the standard wheel studs, the 8mm on the rear was put on for a test. I have just ordered some 20mm Ichiba (V2) bolt on spacers. Due to the fact they are bolt on the standard wheel studs will need 3mm shaved off the fronts and 5mm off at the rears. Assuming you do not have backspace to accommodate the protruding studs on the rims.

I would recommend extended studs for any slip on setup (V1), especially for you guys living in the US since Ichiba spacers will not be expensive (I had to pay for shipping to Australia). If you go 15mm or less get extended studs with slip ons (V1). If 20mm or more I recommend bolt on (V2).

If you do go any spacer I recommend you guys to get hubcentric ones. Celicas have a 54.1 center bore. It is also recommended to get CBL rings "Center bore location rings" when fitting the rims (54.1 - XX.X), try to get plastic CBL rings as well. Metal ones have been known to fuse to the rim in the past.

yeah im def getting spacers...I have +48!!
How wide are you’re rims? In you signature the fronts don’t look too far off, but the rears are tucked in abit.

Haha hopefully I covered most the questions :).
 

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I am the E in FAIL
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my buddies have been bugging me to get rear spacers, now I see how bad ass the flush ness looks!
 

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actually for bilstein springs unless you get H&R to produce them or get custom springs made from someone you can't swap springs they aren't a normal diameter race spring, instead it is a pear shape which has diffearnt widths top and bottom... haha ask me how I know... i've been looking to respring my bilstein coilovers for years now, in short either swap coilovers to get lower or live with the drop.
 
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