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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok I installed my new strut today since one of the other ones I got was bad. I must say that these things ride really nice, almost as good as stock. The downside is, even though I haven't gotten an alignment yet, I can tell that these things will not handle near as well as the Hotchkis spring/ strut set-up I was previously running on this particular car. There is a lot of body roll associated with these things, I mean a lot, more than I would like. However, they do ride really nice, much better than the old springs that were on this car. On a side note, due to the handling characteristics of these coilovers I would have to say that I don't think the spring rates for these that are floating around on the board is correct. I mean they are supposed to be some what stiffer than the Hotchkis springs, except for the rear (40lbs. difference) and I can tell you right now that that is not the case. Maybe the alignment will make all the difference in the world, it did when I first installed the Hotchkis springs but I don't even think that is going to make much of a difference with these. There is just no response to them at all. It feels like I am driving a stock Celica with them big ass tires and stock suspension again. On top of that the body roll coming from the rear is just crazy. It sucks big time. I might have to sell these and get a set of Tanabe's or something. I want my car to be really responsive not act like a damn yacht so......! We will see how they do after the alignment.

Oh one more thing, I am kind of curious as to whether or not putting on a different set of sways and end links would effect my alignment settings. I don't think that it will and really do not know how it could but I want to be 100% sure before I go get an alignment for $70, then replace the endlinks and sways only to have to get it aligned again. TIA!

Justin
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
DYI01 said:
Sell them and get a set of TEIN's like the SS's or SSP's it's worth it IMO, I love my TEIN SS's.
Yeah I wish I had done that to begin with. The only reason I didn't was because I was trying to save a little bit of $$$$$ and these were on sell for $695 shipped to my door. Obviously, I could not resist and now regret ever buying these. I think I am going to sell them. I dunno I will see what the alignment does for they made all the difference in the world on the other two set-ups I had so we will see. I will keep everyone update. Hopefull I can get an alignment this Friday.

Justin
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Blue Bomber said:
Get some Hotchkis sways to get rid of the body roll.
I already have Hotchkis Comp. sway bars. It seems to me that these coilovers are just plain too soft. However, they should be stiffer than most spring/strut set-ups, but I think that is not the case. I have every other suspension stiffening thing you can imagine LOL and my car handles like a boat now. However, I find it hard to believe that this much bad handliung characteristics could all be attributed to the coilovers. I just do not see how they could be this bad. Anyways I am thinking the alignment may have a huge play in it. I hope so because I really do not want to go through the hassle of selling these, taking them off, shipping them, ordering another set of coilovers and then putting them on. Anyways I will keep you guys updated. Wish me luck.

Justin
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
shrumdude said:
Sustec Pro SS. :wiggle:

Nice and stiff, no bodyroll or understeer at ALL with the competition swaybars.
Yeah that is what I should have gotten, but like I said I was trying to save some coin and this is where it got me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
MicaCeli said:
Spring rate is the same.
7kg front 9kg in the back.
Both are 16 way adjustable.
SS-P's have no helper spring.
SS-P's have a shorter length body and have pillow ball mounts.
SS-P's are teflon coated to prevent rust.
SS-P's are EDFC compatible.

There is a guy thats selling his HA's localy.....butI don't know if I want to get them or just get a set of SS-P's :(
:werd: I always thought the SSP's were a step up from teh HA's!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Oh yeah one more thing I forgot to mention is that the car does not look lowered. I mean it does but it doesn't. For example, the front looks just right when it is on the 42nd thread from the bottom but the back still has a 3 finger gap or more even on the 18th thread vs. TRD's recommended 14 which is in itself supposed to be a 1.75 inch drop. However, I am afraid to lower the back anymore simply because TRD says that they cannot guarantee the struts will handle anymore than the recommended 1.75 plus they cannot guarantee that the set screws will stay in place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
MicaCeli said:
Congrats :)

This was my 1st full season and TRD spring's/Struts were not cutting it. I think I might get good localy. Don't think I have the skill/motivation for nationals. When my clutch went I could not bring myself to put the stock one back in :( so that bumped me to DSP......if you only do the LSD you can hit up STX.
Well if TRD springs/struts aren't cutting it then it is time for their coilovers :chuckles:!
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Pinchy said:
what do u guys think its stiffer ???

TRD Coilovers ??? or TRD Springs and AGX Shocks setting 4 ???

from the sound of Dope, the Coilovers are really soft and a lot of ppl complain about how its too stiff for daily driver ??

WHICH IS WHICH ????? :ugh:
Well to be honest the terms harsh and soft are relative terms that all come down to the driver's perferences. To me these are too soft to others they may be harsh but I am used to a car that handles like it is on rails and rides like a go-kart. I like a harsh firm ride, but not too harsh. Its kind of hard to explain but IMO these are in no way too harsh a ride for daily driving LOL. I have driven on the same roads with these coilovers as I have with the Hotchkis stuff and these don't even hold a candle to the harshness I experienced with the Hotchkis stuff even going over the same bad bumps. That should tell you something right there. I am also talking about just the springs/strut set-up, not the full Hotchkis TVS system. Too be honest my other celi with the TVS system rides better than the Hotchkis spring/stock strut set-up but that is probably because the struts are matched to the springs. To me the ride is real soft, but handles pretty decent, will probably handle a hell of a lot better when I get my alignment, which I was supposed to do today but was too lazy to get up this morning. All in all I think these are great coilvers if you want decent everyday handling with a really nice ride that won't beat your brains out. However, if you want these for consistent track use then these are def. NOT for you, but will work for moderate track use. However, they are by no means the best set-up for a track. You can spend $3000 or more on a track set-up. By the way even though I say these coilovers are soft they are def. stiffer than springs/AGX's would be. They are still coilovers and coilovers are all generally going to be stiffer than any spring/strut combo. I hope that helps some. If not then shoot me a PM and I will glad to answer any more questions you may have. In addition to what I have said there is a member here by the name of Conehugger that uses these coilvers for track use and he swears up and down by them so.....you do the math.

Justin
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
conehugger said:
I forgot one thing. I am not sure how you guys are hitting the bump stops at max ride hide. The springs don't compress that much. I mentioned about the coil bind on the revalved coil over setup. It sounds like someone took a BFH and hit the bottom of the shock. I also measured from the lip of the wheel well this morning to the center of the rim. Mine is at 13.25" in front. The rears measured 12.25" but I had all my junk in the back from the last autocross. So I would imagine that this would come back up towards the 13.5" inches that they have marked in their book. I am not sure that there is 500 lbs in the rear so it might not come up all the way. I'll find out this weekend before changing springs.

I never hit the bump stops or got coilbind with the stock valving, but that is not to say that you guys are not.
Well I am not getting full coilbind but at the TRD recommendation the coils on the spring were pretty damn close to touching. I am assuming that if I was to go out onto the road at the TRD recommendation and then say hit a moderate bump then I can almost say with 100% certainty that the spring would hit full coilbind. It might not but considering the room it has to travel it would not surprise me.

As far as hitting the bumpstops, what bumpstops? When I installed mine we obviously got rid of the old strut/bumpstop set-up. All I remember installing on these that even remotely might act as a bumpstop is the black rubber thing that you twist onto the top of the spring, that is if you want to call that a true bumpstop. I guess it is but it works a little differently than the old ones. Then again after thinking about it this bumpstop makes sense for this set-up. I just never gave it much thought and I was never hitting the bumpstops. It is just the fist day I put these on I set it to TRD recommendations and when I set the car back on the ground looked at the springs to see them almost at full coilbind and said this is not going to work. The first pothole I hit will make the springs coils touch each other and thereby making any kind of strut dampening nonexistent since the spring would be taking all the impact. I am guessing it would have been like riding around on solid aluminum blocks LOL. I can't say that the springs would have coilbinded for sure but like I said they were pretty damn close while the car was just on the ground so I didn't want to chance it.

I cannot wait to see what solutions you come up with Conehugger as I think these coilovers have great potential it is just as you have already mentioned TRD chose these specs for a reason, public ease of use and comfort. By the way you said you can get stiffer springs from Eiback for these things. Do I need to tell them anythign specific when calling them to order these? Like do they need to know what set-up it is going on and whatnot? DO I need to provide them with measurements and stuff? Obviously I will have to tell them the spring rates I want but other than that what do I need to do? Do I call Eibach directly or is there someone else you know of that can help me with this? Thanks for all of your help.

Justin
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
conehugger said:
You need three measurements. ID, Length and spring rate.
They are both 2.5 inches ID, 9 inches in length for the front, 7 inches in the rear. Spring rates are up to you. The TRD setup is 200 in the front and 350 in the rear.
Awesome! Thanks for the information. Oh and I am to just call Eibach directly huh?

Justin
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
erok said:
The bump stops are black rubber donuts that fit over the shock shafts. In theory the BFH feeling I get over bumps and potholes is the shock compressing so much that the bump stops are taking the impact. But perhaps it is coil bind. I can not imagine autocrossing with these in the stock form.

When I first installed them at TRD's specs, my car also seemed way too low and more of a drop than TRD says it should be. Maybe something is wrong. The damping is so soft I wonder if they're defective.

While it's mostly been fun modding the Celica, lately it's been more of a PITA. This car can be made to perform well, but it ain't easy (or cheap). Including the purchase price, I'm driving a $35k Celica. BTW my experience with the AGX shocks was not good either.

I'm thinking of throwing cash at this car one last time to buy a set of stock dampers and have someone else install them. The next money I spend will be on a classified ad.

Then off to the Lotus dealer.
Hmmm....that is interesting. You see I remember the stock bumpstops and they were those hard pieces of rubber in a cone shape that went over the strut. However, on the TRD set-up wht bumpstop is entirely different. The bumpstop, the only thing I can think of that came with these is the little black rubber busing looking thing that you were asked to thread into the spring, then the spring and the rubber thing are slid onto the top of the strut, then you have the solid mount that goes on on top of that, etc. In reality I don't see how you are actually hitting the bumpstops either, just as Conehugger said. I could see you getting full coilbind but you would have to be hitting some serious potholes at quite a nice speed for this to happen and that is if you were on the TRD settings. Are you sure you installed them correctly? You didn't twist the shafts are anything on the struts did you? I hope not!!!!! I finally got mine just right and am completely happy with them.

First off I would make sure that they are put on correctly. Follow the directions to the T! Next, if you know they are 100% correctly installed then, adjust them to my settings. If you are on the TRD settings as of right now then take the collar or spring perch down to the 37th thread from the very bottom, in the back put them on the 16th or 18th thread from the bottom, whichever you prefer and tell me how that does. You should now be at the exact equivalent of a Hotchkis spring drop. Now take it for a test drive and get back with me.

Are you hearing any noises with these things while driving? If so, then please come back and post up what the noises sound like. It is quite possible that you got a bad set. It happens when anything is mass produced, cars, springs, struts, microwaves, TV's, etc. One of my struts was blown when it came out of the box but it also made all kinds of racket. It took me awhile to realize that that is what it was but sure enough that was it. Then again they could all be bad and not make any noise at all, they just want work. Perhaps the seals in them are broken and all the gas leaked out or something. I wouldn't give up on it yet. Oh and by the way I have abou the same amount of money in my Celica as you do yours so don't feel so bad.

Justin
 
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