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Discussion Starter #1
So I'd like to say that as one of my first official "threads" on newcelica, that this kind of a community seems to make the world go round, and countless people would be lost without the open hearted people running and maintaining this website. For that, much appreciation.

Next- I'd like to say that on a scale of 1-10 of how "car savvy" I am, I'd probably be closer to a 2. I know how to put gasoline in my car... and... well. That pretty much sums it up.

My valentine's day gift to myself, was trading in my '01 celica gt for a '00 celica gts (6spd, w/ 59K original miles! :) )

So I made the trip all the way back to Vegas from where I bough the car.. without a hitch. Thinking that the world was finally giving me a break, I can safely say that I had a good nights rest last night.

Alas, today- when I tried to get the vehicle smogged, (*mind you, ECL was off beforehand) I saw that during the "RPM Test" the ECL flicked on... and thus I failed the emissions test. The machine spit out a piece of paper that had "P0171 system too lean" code... so I googled it and blah blah blah.

Being the ignorant noob I am, I was hoping I could do it myself as there was a step by step picture guide online. I disconnected the MAFS from the intake only to notice that the sensor was in pristine condition, no dirt, no grime, was anywhere... So I put the sensor back on, started the car up- and the ECL was still on.

I disconnected the battery, then reconnected it as a test measure...and the CEL hasn't been on since.

As far as drivability- I don't notice any "lag" in acceleration, or similar symptoms, and I was able to land lift in the first three gears while feeling relatively comfortable.

Is the unconventional method of simply disconnecting the battery to clear the ECL going to hold up when I try for another smog check?

Sorry this post is so long, I appreciate anyone that bothered to sit and waste their life answering my question.

Cheers! John
 

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You definitely don't seem to give yourself enough credit on your car savvy rating. Although you may just be a fast learner in understanding the cleaning the MAF sensor and such. Congrats on the new car. If it is staying off when your revving it doesn't seem like it would reappear. Although just clearing the ECL probably didn't fix whatever the problem was so its more like a band aid. I cleaned out my MAFS and it was easy to tell it was dirty when I had to do such.

Someone a bit more experienced might be able to give you a better answer. I have only had my Celica for 1 year and had very few issues.
 

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Daddy Daycare
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Did you check the actual MAF wires or just the body and temperature probe (matchstick-like amber color protrusion)?

P0171 could be MAF, in some cases it could be the 1st Oxygen sensor. Could also be a tiny vacuum leak somewhere.
 

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You definitely don't seem to give yourself enough credit on your car savvy rating. Although you may just be a fast learner in understanding the cleaning the MAF sensor and such. Congrats on the new car. If it is staying off when your revving it doesn't seem like it would reappear. Although just clearing the ECL probably didn't fix whatever the problem was so its more like a band aid. I cleaned out my MAFS and it was easy to tell it was dirty when I had to do such.

Someone a bit more experienced might be able to give you a better answer. I have only had my Celica for 1 year and had very few issues.
Thanks- :D But trust me- I'm pretty clueless overall.
 

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Did you check the actual MAF wires or just the body and temperature probe (matchstick-like amber color protrusion)?

P0171 could be MAF, in some cases it could be the 1st Oxygen sensor. Could also be a tiny vacuum leak somewhere.
The only thing I did is disconnect the maf from the intake itself, took the maf off, looked at it, felt around the intake for dust... and just reconnected everything. Should I actually spray it?

The CEL came back on today- meaning it might not be the MAFS right? Or maybe the unit is faulty? What else causes that P0171 code?
 

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Daddy Daycare
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The things I mentioned are about it. You need to take tha MAF off the intake, spray it with CRC MAF sensor cleaner (don't buy anything else). You have to spray both the area surrounding the temperature probe as well as inside the tube where the actual sensor wires run. If those two thin wires are dity the MAF will not read air correctly and won't send enough fuel, which causes you to run lean.
 

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in some cases it could be the 1st Oxygen sensor.
This


Probably a "Going-bad" O2 Sensor. Which is why it may have been fine for a few hundred miles then flick on. Resetting the ECU will keep it off for a few hundred miles again before it flicks on in all probability if the sensor is on its way out. I had my 1st O2 sensor on its way out for about a year. Go 2-3 months of throwing a code, 2-3 months of not. etc until finally it just died and the CEL came on within 5 miles of running the car even after resetting battery. Replaced it and my issue was fixed. If it wasnt the MAF the next best place to go would be O2 Sensors (after checking for tiny vacuum leaks etc as above stated since that will be cheaper than new O2 Sensors) Also the point about checking the maf "Wires" and not the temp probe is a good idea. I thought i was cleaning my MAF by cleaning up the temperature probe the first time time i did it :laugh:
 
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