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Discussion Starter #1
I know there are plenty of threads talking about this. I couldn't find the answer I need.

My lift never gave that kick that I've heard it gives, so I checked my lift bolts and my intake was broken. I bought a new set of bolts and had my buddy (who is a mechanic) help me out with it. We tried to use a reverse bit to get it out, but the bit was old and broke. So we tried to use a taper to get it out. One thing led to another and eventually we accidentally drilled it out.

We got as much of the shavings out as we could and started it up. Had a couple issues that we sorted out. I decided to clean out the vvtl filter. There were metal shavings in it, and some did get past the filter (I know how bad this is). I cleaned it out the best I could and ran an oil change. Engine was running smooth and everything was fine. I tried to hit lift and once I got a little past 6,000 rpm, CEL came on and the rev limiter stopped me at 7,000 rpm. The code it pulled up was p1693. I took the vvtl solenoid out, hooked it up to 12v and it was clicking and visually moving. The temperature was at operating temp when I tried, 176° to be exact.

I checked the wires going to the solenoid and they're fine. Also, before this lift was working. I'm curious if maybe the oil pressure sensor in the ocv assembly got a metal shaving in it and caused it to not work, or maybe the solenoid is moving but somehow still not working? Does anyone have any ideas what the issue could be?

I'm in college and with the current circumstances, I barley have any hours at my job. So I don't have the money to buy a new ocv assembly right now.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I was thinking maybe the oil pressure switch broke when pieces of metal went into it. I see at my local auto parts store they have some in stock for pretty cheap. Should I try to replace that? If so, how would I do that?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I think the rockershaft is bad. Does anyone have any tutorials on how to replace it?
 

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Perhaps an engine guru will offer better advice, but I have questions before suggestions.
You said that lift was working before the repair, but also said that it didn't kick in? I'm confused. With a broken bolt, the lift couldn't have worked.
Did you replace the lift bolt successfully? You said you drilled it out. Did you also drill out the threads holding the bolt? Where did the end of the broken bolt wind up?
I also assume that the rocker didn't move out of place and jam in the head with the broken bolt if you could easily drill it out. If you had to move the rocker forward or back in the head, how did you do it?
Your last post says the rocker is bad. What brings you to that conclusion? If you whacked the sealed end of the rocker (at the timing gear) with a drift to move it back towards the right, you may have broken the cap that keeps the oil pressure in the rocker when the valve opens. If so, getting the broken bolt end out of the rocker must also have been a difficult process. If it moved in and out with just a finger push (like it should), the rocker shouldn't be damaged.
Suggestions...
Based solely on the information at hand, I would remove the lift OCV and the oil pressure sender in the head and ensure there's no more shavings inside the rocker assembly (use a gun barrel cleaning tool or something similar) or on the little OCV filter screen (blow it clean with solvent and compressed air).
Shop vac the inside of the rocker... flush some clean oil down the rocker and see if it comes out the timing cover end.
Test the oil pressure sender internal circuit for continuity with a multimeter.
Test the OCV to ensure it clicks on and off with power and ground applied.
You can also add a test lamp circuit into the wiring for the OCV to check if it its being turned on when it is supposed to be activated.
I would also add a ground wire from the battery negative to an OCV mounting bolt to ensure the valve activation isn't suffering from a wiring corrosion issue (like all the old Canadian Toyotas do).
Hope this helps. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Perhaps an engine guru will offer better advice, but I have questions before suggestions.
You said that lift was working before the repair, but also said that it didn't kick in? I'm confused. With a broken bolt, the lift couldn't have worked.
Did you replace the lift bolt successfully? You said you drilled it out. Did you also drill out the threads holding the bolt? Where did the end of the broken bolt wind up?
I also assume that the rocker didn't move out of place and jam in the head with the broken bolt if you could easily drill it out. If you had to move the rocker forward or back in the head, how did you do it?
Your last post says the rocker is bad. What brings you to that conclusion? If you whacked the sealed end of the rocker (at the timing gear) with a drift to move it back towards the right, you may have broken the cap that keeps the oil pressure in the rocker when the valve opens. If so, getting the broken bolt end out of the rocker must also have been a difficult process. If it moved in and out with just a finger push (like it should), the rocker shouldn't be damaged.
Suggestions...
Based solely on the information at hand, I would remove the lift OCV and the oil pressure sender in the head and ensure there's no more shavings inside the rocker assembly (use a gun barrel cleaning tool or something similar) or on the little OCV filter screen (blow it clean with solvent and compressed air).
Shop vac the inside of the rocker... flush some clean oil down the rocker and see if it comes out the timing cover end.
Test the oil pressure sender internal circuit for continuity with a multimeter.
Test the OCV to ensure it clicks on and off with power and ground applied.
You can also add a test lamp circuit into the wiring for the OCV to check if it its being turned on when it is supposed to be activated.
I would also add a ground wire from the battery negative to an OCV mounting bolt to ensure the valve activation isn't suffering from a wiring corrosion issue (like all the old Canadian Toyotas do).
Hope this helps. Good luck.
When I opened it up, the exhaust bolt was fine, but the intake was bad. So lift was working but only for the exhaust cams. After drilling out the intake bolt and replacing it, I get a check engine light. I'm starting to think that the person who was helping drill out the old bolt either drilled a new hole instead of the actual bolt, or drilled too far. Being that lift (exhaust only) worked before this, it brings me to believe that there is nothing wrong with any of the connections
 

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Ok. You confirmed that the exhaust side bolt was undamaged, but not that the lift actuator was working. The intake side lift could not work mechanically due to the broken bolt, but it may also not have been actuating, as well as not engaging the lift rockers. You have to test all the components and all the connections. Assume nothing is good and confirm what it is.
I'd be inclined to check the new intake lift bolt that was installed and verify both the horizontal orientation and vertical depth of the intake rocker relative to the exhaust rocker. Both rocker shafts should be oriented so the actuator holes point to the rocker lifter oil ports. If they don't line up, the lift won't work (that's what happens when the positioning bolt breaks.)

Here's a Celica video you can watch. Engine stuff is at 16 mins or so.

Back to work...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok. You confirmed that the exhaust side bolt was undamaged, but not that the lift actuator was working. The intake side lift could not work mechanically due to the broken bolt, but it may also not have been actuating, as well as not engaging the lift rockers. You have to test all the components and all the connections. Assume nothing is good and confirm what it is.
I'd be inclined to check the new intake lift bolt that was installed and verify both the horizontal orientation and vertical depth of the intake rocker relative to the exhaust rocker. Both rocker shafts should be oriented so the actuator holes point to the rocker lifter oil ports. If they don't line up, the lift won't work (that's what happens when the positioning bolt breaks.)

Here's a Celica video you can watch. Engine stuff is at 16 mins or so.

Back to work...
When I get out of work I'll watch that
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok. You confirmed that the exhaust side bolt was undamaged, but not that the lift actuator was working. The intake side lift could not work mechanically due to the broken bolt, but it may also not have been actuating, as well as not engaging the lift rockers. You have to test all the components and all the connections. Assume nothing is good and confirm what it is.
I'd be inclined to check the new intake lift bolt that was installed and verify both the horizontal orientation and vertical depth of the intake rocker relative to the exhaust rocker. Both rocker shafts should be oriented so the actuator holes point to the rocker lifter oil ports. If they don't line up, the lift won't work (that's what happens when the positioning bolt breaks.)

Here's a Celica video you can watch. Engine stuff is at 16 mins or so.

Back to work...

I don't know if my actuator is broken. Is that replaceable if it is? Also even if that is broken, it's not what is causing the check engine light. I was not previously getting any check engine lights. If we did drill a new hole into the rockershaft. Is it possible to make sure the rockershaft is in the right orentation without taking it out? Because if I did drill a new hole, it would be impossible to tell by only looking at the hole where the lift bolt goes.
 

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The actuator is the OCV. Yes you can check the rocker orientation from its end in the timing cover. Watch the video and see if you still have questions. Have fun. Going offline.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The actuator is the OCV. Yes you can check the rocker orientation from its end in the timing cover. Watch the video and see if you still have questions. Have fun. Going offline.
Tomorrow in going to open the valve cover and see if it's in the right orentation. Do I need to remove the cam shaft to see the notch in the rockershaft?
 

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2001 Toyota Celica 1.8 VVTi
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P1693 = Oil control valve for VVTl close malfunction, and is set when:
Coolant temp is 60 degrees or above, Engine speed is 6000rpm or above and the Oil pressure switch is OFF for mote than 1 second.
Areas of trouble could be:
Open or short in Oil control valve circuit
Oil control valve
Oil pressure switch
Engine ECU or harness
Diagnosis requires a hand held tester with Toyota software that is able to run active tests on the above
This is from the Repair Manual!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
P1693 = Oil control valve for VVTl close malfunction, and is set when:
Coolant temp is 60 degrees or above, Engine speed is 6000rpm or above and the Oil pressure switch is OFF for mote than 1 second.
Areas of trouble could be:
Open or short in Oil control valve circuit
Oil control valve
Oil pressure switch
Engine ECU or harness
Diagnosis requires a hand held tester with Toyota software that is able to run active tests on the above
This is from the Repair Manual!
I've tested everything, I'm fairly confident it's the rockershaft
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So what did you find out?
Nothing yet, it's been cold and snowing in Ohio and I don't have a garage. I also have been pretty busy with school. I was hoping on Wednesday to look a little deeper. I think I'm going to buy a new solenoid and pressure switch just to 100% rule them out. They told me at my local auto shop that if they don't fix the problem I can return them. To replace the pressure switch, do I just unscrew mine and screw the new one back in?
 

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Yes the pressure switch just screws into the OCV housing. I am surprised that your auto parts place will let you return an electrical part. More power to you and them. Keep us posted! Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah, well I know them pretty well at this store and the guy said to just clean it off and return it
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yes the pressure switch just screws into the OCV housing. I am surprised that your auto parts place will let you return an electrical part. More power to you and them. Keep us posted! Good luck.
I went to order a rockershaft from mwr and I saw that they also had a pressure switch for pretty cheap, so I decided to grab that too. The oil pressure switch and rockershaft are the only things left that could be bad. I'm pretty sure it's the rockershaft, but I decided it's worth the $20 to make sure it's not the oil pressure switch
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yes the pressure switch just screws into the OCV housing. I am surprised that your auto parts place will let you return an electrical part. More power to you and them. Keep us posted! Good luck.
Intake rockershaft and vvtl oil pressure switch came in today. I don't have much time because my semester at college is wrapping up. I'll probably put both parts in next week
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yes the pressure switch just screws into the OCV housing. I am surprised that your auto parts place will let you return an electrical part. More power to you and them. Keep us posted! Good luck.
Are there any pages that show how to actually remove the rockershaft? I'm doing it this weekend but I'm not sure how to properly take it out. I've seen some people say there are directions on here but I can't find them
 

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In the bookmarked threads of this repair & maintenance section click on the thread by Smaay "how to fix broken lift bolts". You'll find what you need.
 
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