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Zettai Unmei Mokushiroku
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28,865 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'll just touch on the main points:


Positives:
  • Mind blowing video (when hacked). The sharpest I've ever seen on a camera under $10K. Blows away all HDSLRs, with the D800 and 5D MkIII being the closest competition (only superior in high ISO). You can literally take a frame and use it as a photo without anyone knowing. With hacks, you can shoot at 2K. Better have some cards ready. ;)
  • Can accept almost any lens ever made by using adapters. Just bought an 8-48mm F/1.0 (yes, F/1.0!) CCTV lens for under $100! People are shooting at base ISO with this lens under street lights.
  • Well laid out controls and customization, though not as many features as a Nikon/Canon DSLR.
  • Touchscreen is actually functional instead of a gimmick. One touch AF point selection, and even one touch shutter (great for keeping the camera steady in low light).
  • Great electronic viewfinder. No problems manually focusing at all, and shows the same info as the main LCD.
  • Supposedly instant contrast detection AF, as fast as phase detection, though I don't have any native M4/3 lenses to test.
  • Super light. Great for use on a steadicam, especially with the swing out LCD to shoot at any angle.

Negatives:

  • Slightly lower than average DSLR image quality from the smaller sensor. Really doesn't show up that badly until around ISO 3200. By 12,800, it looks like oatmeal. Things are different in video, though, due to interpolation.
  • Cheap build quality. Almost gagged when I first picked it up, compared to Nikon's consumer and midrange cameras I've used, but got used to it. Sounds incredibly hollow and plasticky. At least the LCD swivel hinge seems beefy.
  • No UHS-1 card support, so need to find high speed SDXC cards (getting hard to find nowadays) for hacks.
  • Weaksause battery, and no aftermarket ones that show the battery meter. There's a Chinese battery grip, though, that can hold 2 batteries, and people have hacked RC car batteries to work, too.
  • Only outputs 1080i/60 through HDMI, and can only record at that res when a monitor is plugged in. Complete failboat if it didn't have a swivel LCD.
  • Viewfinder and LCD black out while shooting, so this camera is pretty much useless for sports.


I'd gladly take this camera to a daytime event to shoot both video and photos. Go to an event inside a parking deck, building, or at night, and out comes the D7000. Really, the two top negatives are the LCD blackout while shooting and 1080i HDMI out. I can deal with the rest, and the positives for video outweigh them heavily. This is pretty much the ideal companion for my D7000. They cover each other's weaknesses perfectly.
 

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Zettai Unmei Mokushiroku
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28,865 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
New feature found! :D Overexposure warning for video! I knew it had it for photos once you take the pic and review it (like my D7000), but there's also a setting for it in video. No more guessing about highlights! Yes, it does have a live histogram and exposure meter to work with, but that's for the overall image. Here, I can see exactly what's blown out as it's being seen, since it'll be flashing black and white, and compensate in real time. If only the photo quality was DSLR level...
 

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Zettai Unmei Mokushiroku
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28,865 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Another new feature?! Well kinda, though it's not as much of a new feature as it is a result of an already known feature. And an insane one at that! The camera already has a 2.0x crop vs full frame (Nikon APS-C is 1.5x, Canon 1.6x). The EX Teleconverter (ETC) lossless digital zoom of the GH2 magnifies that by another 2.6x. In video, it's a 1:1 map of 1920x1080 pixels in the center of the sensor at 1080p.

I should've figured this out, but at 720p, it crops even more! :AF: So that's roughly another 1.5x crop on top of everything else! :faint: All in all, at maximum reach, it's 7.5x lossless magnification! So a standard 50mm F/1.8 lens, which starts at 100mm by the standard 2.0x crop, expands to 375mm of reach! At F/1.8!! And a 200mm blows up to 1500mm!
:king:
















Did I mention that I have a 650-1300mm lens lying around? :wiggle: Time to take a vid of each moon crater as it passes by! :gap:
 

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Zettai Unmei Mokushiroku
Joined
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28,865 Posts
Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)

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Zettai Unmei Mokushiroku
Joined
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28,865 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Been hacked for a long time. Called Magic Lantern. More features than you get with the GH2 hack, but the quality increase isn't up to the level of the GH2.
 

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Zettai Unmei Mokushiroku
Joined
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28,865 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
No prob. It's the second reason so many ppl use Canons for video. The first is because they got there first. ;) "Canon = DSLR video" is ingrained in most people's heads at this point, even though Nikon is neck and neck in performance out of the box.

BTW, did a random vid inside the car at a long light on the way from lunch today (F/22 + ISO 160 + 1/50 = still blown out...), and the built-in stereo mics picked up the radio. They're actually good! :AF: Like, really good. No tinny, compressed "we put this mic in as an afterthought" sound that you get from just about any other camera out there. You can hear bass and everything. Not sure how it sounded stock, and I know some hacks improve the bitrate of audio, too, but that won't mask a crappy mic.

Gotta compare them to my Tascam DR-05 recorder. Not a high end mic (or even midrange :p: ), but I like the way it sounds better than the others in the same price range, and it can record all day on a single charge and a good size microSD card.
 

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Zettai Unmei Mokushiroku
Joined
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28,865 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
It's the shutter speed. If I brought it down more, it would be smooth. Didn't have my Vari-ND on, so that was the best I could do at the time. On the bright side, faster shutter speed = sharper image. :)
 

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Zettai Unmei Mokushiroku
Joined
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28,865 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
For 1080p24, technically 1/24 is the correct shutter speed, but digital almost never has that setting, so 1/50 is the next ideal setting. For 720p60, 1/60 is ideal, and 1/125 will work as well. That will give you the most natural motion. Go for a slower shutter speed, and things will get blurry. Go for a faster shutter speed, and things will get choppy.

You can use slower or faster speeds for artistic effect, so there really isn't a wrong shutter speed, just wrong places to use them. Also, for slow motion, high shutter speeds work best, giving the most clarity. If you use Twixtor, very high shutter speeds are best. Twixtor takes 2 frames and creates new frames in between them through interpolation for ultra high speed slow motion (can't wait to try that out! :D ). The clearer the 2 frames are, the better the interpolated frames will look.
 
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