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Discussion Starter #1
So I was planning to paint my stock fuel rail and put it back on. Well, as I was sanding it in prep for painting, I decided it might come out nicely if I tried to polish it. And, sure enough, it came out pretty nice:






Pretty good bling for not too much ching, if you ask me ;)



(no TPR will not be offering this as a service) :chuckles:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Originally posted by DelltaDMX
what did you use to polish it? looks great!
I started with 150 grit sandpaper, then moved onto 200 grit. Followed that up with a motorozed polishing wheel (that really made it fast and easy) and finished it up with some mothers aluminum polish.

Originally posted by larryd
Will TPR be offering this as a service?
Originally posted by S|Lv3rBu||et
(no TPR will not be offering this as a service) :chuckles:
C'mon larry... reading is your friend ;)

Originally posted by mukalicious
looks good, but why'd you ditch the SF rail?
Well, I got the staf-fab rail for two reasons:
1) I had planned on installing a nitrous setup and thought the rail would be nice for getting the fuel and...
2) I was going to install a fuel psi gauge.

But I have since decided to stay away from the bottle and I don't really need the rail for the fuel psi gauge if I still get that.

You can keep an eye out for my SF rail in the 'for sale' section soon tho ;)

Thanks for the complements guys!!
 

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S|Lv3rBu||et said:
I started with 150 grit sandpaper, then moved onto 200 grit. Followed that up with a motorozed polishing wheel (that really made it fast and easy) and finished it up with some mothers aluminum polish.
Now show us some closeups showing all the scratches leftover in the metal.

Frankly guys, if you want something like this, get a cheap bench grinder ($40), a stitched cloth wheel ($5) and a stick of emery compound ($3) which is used for polishing steel. Just go to town on the thing. You can polish up bolts with the same thing.
 

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Originally posted by evil eye
Larry, that was a joke right? :wtf:

Haha, he already said they are not offering it in the first post and I commented on it right after. :D
What do you think? ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Originally posted by Jesse IL
Now show us some closeups showing all the scratches leftover in the metal.
Well, I'm sorry you can't see "all the scratches leftover in the metal" from the closeups I provided. This was my first time attempting to polish anything. I never said it was the best way, he asked how I did it and I told him. The bench grinder, stitched cloth wheel and emery compound you mentioned is what I used after the sand paper, and to my untrained eye it got rid of "all the scratches" pretty well. But what do I know? You wanna know what really left some permanent marks on it? The dremel :ugh:
 

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Dremel tools are pieces of crap. You think they're really useful, but they aren't. They're especially worthless at polishing metal. I've basically tried every way imaginable of polishing metal and basically think I have it pretty much figured out. Wasn't trying to rag on you, but I hate people seeing internet pictures that hide all the imperfections in polished metals and then getting the idea that's its easy to do. Then they go off and do it themselves and are disappointed.
 

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As far as polishing metal goes JesseIL is correct, a Dremel is worthless for that kind of job. It really depends on what kind of metal you want to polish and how much access you need to it to be able to polish it. However, for all of my polishing needs I always use a die grinder and some good flapper wheels. For this type of thing you would need a good set of flapper wheels 320-1000 grit, some WD-40, and some good old NeverDull, oh and a lot of time. Polishing metal is not exactly easy and is a very time consuming process, if done correctly. For something like the Fuel rail I would take it and clean it really well, next I would take my die grinder and go over it real well with a 320 grit flapper wheel and work my way up step by step all the way to a 1000 grit wheel, spraying down the piece wit h WD 40 between each sanding step. When all of that was said and done I would take the piece an put some NeverDull all over it and buff it out on a BenchGrinder. You can keep doing the last step until you get the results you desire. If you really want a mirror like shine then you can go through the sanding steps all the way up to a 2000 grit flapper wheel and I guarantee you that when done properly this method will leave you a mirror-like finish that will rival the finest polished products available.
 
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