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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well as mentions earlier, the power FC could have some issues.

I have:

issue 1
Under the 2000 rpm and if i lift the throttle so fuel cutt is active, and hit the throttle again a little (say city driving) the timing goes for 2 a 3 seconds to zero. after 2 a 3 seconds it following the ignition map again. This results in a hasitating engine. As Illusive mentions the Power fc maybe thinks its at idle and want to maintain the rpm at 750 rpm by retarding the timing.

issue 2
If lift the throttle the timing ign goes fo a short moment to zero. Evertimes i shift there is a pop in my exhaust due the late timing.

Issue 3.
The Power fc idles at ignition of 20 while oem idles at 15 (cold even 10)

Tricks:
For issue 1 i raised the idle FC to 1800 rpm (setting 1). The result is a fully driveble situation. No hasitations. Ignition is followed.
Off course there is a new issue. If the throttle is lifted and the rpm reached idle rpm it dips a little to 500 rpm (old issue).

For issue 2 i even raised the idle F/C to 5500 rpm (or even 7000rpm). Again it solved the problem.
I have tried to fake a fuel cutt by change the 2 low load row to zero. This seems to work, but at lower rpm it has to pick it up again. Thats difficult. First i did this at 1100 rpm, thats didn't work right, its not smooth. It works reasenable if you let it pickup at 1700 rpm again.
Lowest load row is 500 from 1400 rpm to redline its zero.
second load row i have at 1150 and from 1700 rpm to redline its zero.

This works fine, but i discover thats the injections time is not zero, lowest value is 0,5 ms while the cel say zero. So there is no real fuelcut. I think my turbo and cat don't like that.
Now i have the orgininal values in the 2 lowest load rows again. So at a lifted throttle i tuned is at a afr of 15 a 16.

Issue 3.
This is not a real issue, in my case. But idleing can be a bit smoother with a lower timing. to do this go to setting 4. Go to IGN vs TPS. place in the right row (adjust) in all the 4 cells -5.
Go to the ign map and raise the hole map with 5.
Adjust the idling area around the 20, this result in a idleing timing of 15.

If anyone has more tip and tricks..........
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Other thing:
At setting 4 the IGN vs Water T Cool does not retard the timing at cold water temp but ADVANGED the timing with the value in the right collum

Even Jesse did not noticed this!!
 

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Issue 3.
This is not a real issue, in my case. But idleing can be a bit smoother with a lower timing. to do this go to setting 4. Go to IGN vs TPS. place in the right row (adjust) in all the 4 cells -5.
Go to the ign map and raise the hole map with 5.
Adjust the idling area around the 20, this result in a idleing timing of 15.

If anyone has more tip and tricks..........
I've been having issue controlling idle timing too. It is like the ecu always want to idle at 20-25 degree. It doesn't matter what value you put in the map, the timing is always around 20 deg.

I tried your suggestion and it works, it does lower the idle timing (and idles much better btw) but then the values in your map will not match the actual ign value the ecu is sending (there will be a 5 degree difference).

I currently have the idle valve disconnected and adjusted the throttle screw to set idle around 1400rpm. Does anyone else have issue controlling idle ignition advance?? Could this be fixed by connecting the idle valve and doing the pfc idle learn process??
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I've been having issue controlling idle timing too. It is like the ecu always want to idle at 20-25 degree. It doesn't matter what value you put in the map, the timing is always around 20 deg.

I tried your suggestion and it works, it does lower the idle timing (and idles much better btw) but then the values in your map will not match the actual ign value the ecu is sending (there will be a 5 degree difference).
Thats the idea.
if you want a real ignition of 15 at 800 and 1200rpm (idle), 20 at 1700 rpm and 25 at 2200rpm. complete the map with your desiratre ignition (make it smooth).
Then raise the hole ignition map with 5 degrees. Then go to IGN vs TPS. place in the right row (adjust) in all the 4 cells -5.

Indeed the real ignition is 5 degrees lower than the ignition map say's but its run on your desirate ignition value.

Other trick is:
find out in what the idle cells are in your map. say you want a idle of 15. Make all the idle cells and surounding cells 15. Find out what your off throttle voltage is. Mine is 0,585 volt. Go to Go to IGN vs TPS. Place in the bottum left row 0,580 V. place in the bottum right row (adjust) -5.
Place in the left row above 0.580v, 0,590V.
Place in the right row (adjust) near 0,590V 0. The right row (adjust) has now three 0 and one (bottum) -5.

SO if you let go of the throttle (deccelerating) your ignitiontiming is 5 degree les than your igntion map displays, and idleing to. Its actualy only the lowest load rows and idleing cells. The timing of the other cells is equal with your real timing. This works to but i think its less smooth around the idle cells.
 

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ok so I finally managed to set an acceptable idle but I noticed that when the A/C compressor starts, the ignition drops 5 degrees and can't find exactly what is making it to drop. Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes mine to, i didnt noticed it. I don't use the a/c a lot. While driving its not retarding a lot. Only at idle is 5 degrees. I have no trick for that
 
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