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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone. I will be in hin in liek week and 1/2 and have a slight issue. CS.com is paying for my power but i need the inverter to power it. I looked and asked everywhere and noone knew. Then i went to an audio shop and the 1st wanted 600-1000 for a power supply installed in the car which is the optimal idea. Not optimal for me ;) The guy then mentioned using a battery charger on either 2 or 10 amp. Also a guy online mentioned this as well. He also mentioned the issue that the new battery chargers are electronic so u have to trick them to think a battery is there. You have to hook it all up to the car and have the battery hooked. Then turn it and the car on. Then remove the battery and it should keep it running.

Well i wanna see what those who have had to be in shows that required power from wall socket and couldnt have battery attached did? And will what they are talking about work and safely. I jsut went and bought a black&decker smartcharger(only kind i could find) and it has all electronic sensor crap and such and has 2,6,10 amp setting.

My next question. the guy at the shop said start at 2 and if its not enough then go to 10. is 10 safe. can i use 6 or no? And should 2 be enough for:
-Car on ACC
-parking lights turned on
-interrior lights on
-underlighting led kit on
-sterio on but no volume
-carputer running (laptop running on 19v cig lighter inverter)
-screen
-interrior cold cathodes (8 in all)

that should be about it :) Also would it matter if i'm on ACC or ON? On lets the gas lcd light up which is extra blingage ;)
 

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The amperage is related to the trickle charge on the battery chargers, if you set it at 2-3 amps you take 6-8hrs to charge the battery but it holds a charge better. If you're in a hurry you set it on 10 and pump the juice into it. Its just like charging a cell phone. Plug it in overnight and you get the days out of it, keep plugging it in your car and the life shortens. You can goto Harbor Freight (if you have those down there) and get the starter/charger for $19. As far as what amperage, those acc's arn't going to run down the thing at all, but 6 would be the safe one. Unless you turned everything on one by one and made sure not to overload it on startup. Then with the battery removed you just have a little black box under your car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
have u tried this? so the whole, start it up on ACC with charger and battery on. then turn on side things like computer and lighting 1 by 1. and then unplug bettery?
 

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You can just take the battery out all together I believe. The charger is always putting out juice once it makes a + - contact so as long as you have stuff on then your good to go
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
it seems to have a senor when there is on battery connected. but i'll try this all out this weekend and see. so i shoudl conect this all up w/o the battery connected. have it on 2amp then tur the car to acc. and then 1 by 1 turn everyhting on. now how will i know when i need to upp the amp?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
also if this auto charger thingy that i have wants to do 10amp initally will that mess up the car at all?
 

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Umm.. probably looking at more like the 10A setting anyway... that 19V convertor is going to suck a couple of Amps to begin with...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
wiil the 10 amp hurt anyhting? and how will i know if liek 2 or 6 are not working. will everyhting shut off or something?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
thanks buddy but i dont have that kind of cash at the moment :(
 

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Electromagnetic Wave :-h
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hombredelassrta said:
wiil the 10 amp hurt anyhting? and how will i know if liek 2 or 6 are not working. will everyhting shut off or something?
1) Probably not. 2) things are gonna dim @ the least. 3) Depends on how far above the rated current you go.

The charger of which you speak is probably current limited/regulated... meaning that @ 2A... that's the max it will allow... so when your load exceeds 2A.... the charger will continue to only allow 2A's .... so the voltage gets reduced. A power supply... keeps the voltage steady/regulated up to it's rated current before dropping voltage...

A standard 10A charger connected to the battery... leaving the battery in .... should hold you up just fine. Especially if you are using an Optima or other deep cycle batt. If you remove the battery... you're libel to get some weirdness from things, as those chargers are usually not that well AC filtered.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
^^ the battery has to be disconnected at the show so i guess i may get some wierdness. Thankfully the laptop has a battery if it fluctuates. only issue really is the screen which i am guessing i'l probably get some lineage.
 

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A straight 12V power supply @ 10-11A will run you $50-60 wholesale, $85-100 retail.
A 20A... just under $100 wholesale, $150-160 retail.

If you have an audio cap... that will help the filtering.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
i really dont need this all the time which is why i went with the charger($45 and probably will return it after ;) ) as opposed to the power supply. I have a 2 farad cap for the amp (which the amp wont be on). also noone in town seems to carry it and i have about a week left so thinking powersupply isnt gonna work. so all in all. running it at 10 amp will do nothing to harm the car, say like the ecu or anyhting right?
 

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Probably not. You can always pull the EFI fuse for the ECU... you won't be starting it, anyhow... just remember that it will reset your fuel mapping... & have to go thru the re-learning process.
 

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We use a mains power supply(Powerbox) that replaces the battery for show vehicles. This is NOT a charger. Put your car in the position u want remove the battery and fit in the Power box. It is the same size as a battery and looks like a battery, connect + and - cables to it( no mods needed) connect to mains outlet. Runs on 110v to 240v in, output 13,6v Max 100 amp. Disconnect 12v supply to the starter motor or remove the starter relay,so as motor can't start, remove circuit opening relay(fuel pump relay) so as fuel pump can't work, remove fuses for signal horn, wipers, windscreen washer and away u go. Turn the ign on everything works no probs.
We use these on all our shows here in Sweden both Toyota and Lexus vehicles. No probs running a Lexus SC430 electical roof, radio, electic windows, electrical seats, etc at the same time. On that thing when everthing is running its pulling about 65 > 70 amps. U can leave it running 24/7 no probs.

I think I have all the tech data at work. I'll see if I can find it and send it to u.
 

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Too many fuses and crap to deal with, just hook the charger up and dont hit the horn or crank the key lol
 

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dude! i'll be at that show. i'm not entering it this time, but i will be there... i'll make sure to check out your car!
 
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