[7thgennick]

UPDATE: NO CODES vacuum leak was found and dealt with.
Hey guys I recently did a shift cable replacement on my 2000 toyota celica gt (5spd manual) She is stock except wheels and suspension. In the process I tore out the dash and removed the heater core. I unplugged as little as I could in the process (daylight sensor, spedo, radio, airbag control probably not necessary, blower motor and 02 sensors). Since I disconnected the heater core I went ahead and burped the coolant system got rid of any bubbles and tried to run through the normal cycle for adding/refilling coolant (run car with coolant added ac off, wait for fans to kick on and off, shut off car, top off coolant, start car with heat on Rev on and off until heat blows hot) and no matter how long I waited my fans never kicked on. My thermostat was obviously opening and circulating coolant due to me having to top off the coolant but fans wouldn't kick on. Whole time car never overheated though even with ac on. But no fans. Things to be noted. I ended up cutting the daylight sensor wires because it got stuck in the dash, the outside temp has been at or under freezing during this whole process, the fans are plugged in, the relays in the engine bay fuse box don't have any burnt up connections, the fan plugs don't have any burnt up connections, the car has since traveled over 100 miles with no overheat interstate/highway/town/idle, the cars temperature sensor is new but cheap, temp readings where fairly normal from what i could tell getting up to 140 ish degrees fahrenheit at idle, recently got codes p0300 multiple random misfires (this code has been a problem before but i solved it with help from the forums) and p0171 bank 1 system too lean. I checked around for vacuum leaks and found I forgot to plug the small thin vacuum hose under the airbox in. I plugged it up and disconnected the negative for 15sec to reset the ecm. I need to drive it to confirm that was the issue (roads are frozen so not going to happen today) but am not sure that's related to the fans at all. So what are you guy's thoughts ? Any information or trouble shooting advice is greatly appreciated, and thank you for reading to the end I know it's a long one.

 

[Celicuh13]

You said you checked the relays but have you checked the fuse box in both the hood and passenger side?

 

[Bitter]

Fans don't come on until around 200-210 degrees, if you're only running at 140 then your thermostat is sticking open and the engine is just never getting hot enough to put the fans on for cooling.

 

[mxaustin]

Holy balls. Thats a big text wall, please break it into sections for easier reading..


2000 GTS Turbo

 

[7thgennick]

You said you checked the relays but have you checked the fuse box in both the hood and passenger side?

I have not, also I only visually checked the relays as I'm not electricly inclined and haven't thought myself how to use a multimeter yet.

 

[7thgennick]

Fans don't come on until around 200-210 degrees, if you're only running at 140 then your thermostat is sticking open and the engine is just never getting hot enough to put the fans on for cooling.

That temp reading came from me just idling the car I'll try and get a temp reading after a good drive soon though. That sounds like it could be the problem with this wether and who knows maybe my thermostat is stuck its new though so that shouldn'tbe the case. As long as we don't overheat I'm happy. I'll still try to fix it though.

 

[7thgennick]

Holy balls. Thats a big text wall, please break it into sections for easier reading..


2000 GTS Turbo

Fan no kick on
Relays underhood look fine visual inspection
Car no overheat
Recently tore dash out.
Cut daylight sensor
Didn't disconnect anything related to radiator fans.
Wonder why fan no come on.
Sorry for all the words man lol lot of variables.

 

[Bitter]

That temp reading came from me just idling the car I'll try and get a temp reading after a good drive soon though. That sounds like it could be the problem with this wether and who knows maybe my thermostat is stuck its new though so that shouldn'tbe the case. As long as we don't overheat I'm happy. I'll still try to fix it though.

Hopefully that's it. You should be able to feel of the stat is open by how hot or cold the lower hose is. If it's as hot as the upper hose then it's open, it shouldn't be open until 180ish I think. You might need to hold the car at like 2000 rpm for a few minutes to get the temp to start going up when it's cold out if it won't get over 140 and the stat is closed.

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[7thgennick]

Hopefully that's it. You should be able to feel of the stat is open by how hot or cold the lower hose is. If it's as hot as the upper hose then it's open, it shouldn't be open until 180ish I think. You might need to hold the car at like 2000 rpm for a few minutes to get the temp to start going up when it's cold out if it won't get over 140 and the stat is closed.

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I'll definitely do that test and see, I'm gonna mess around with it and run more diagnostics this weekend. Also the number values you have given are super helpful as well since I didn't know when everything triggered, thank you

 

[Bitter]

Been a minute, figured it's fixed or it's fucked. How'd it turn out?

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[7thgennick]

Been a minute, figured it's fixed or it's fucked. How'd it turn out?

Sent from my SM-G892U using Tapatalk

Oh man I totally forgot to reply, my bad. I'm thinking it's a stuck open thermostat like you said. It hasn't overheated and runs great so I'm not complaining. Recently just got a P0451 code though. Gonna start with my gas cap and go from there.

 

[Bitter]

Oh man I totally forgot to reply, my bad. I'm thinking it's a stuck open thermostat like you said. It hasn't overheated and runs great so I'm not complaining. Recently just got a P0451 code though. Gonna start with my gas cap and go from there.

Both upper and lower hoses getting warm at the same time and engine temp staying low? That's for sure a stuck open or partially stuck open stat. Dealer part isn't much more than quality aftermarket or may even cost the same and is much better quality, grab a stat and gasket and swap it out. These engines warm up pretty quick when it's all working correctly.

 

[7thgennick]

Both upper and lower hoses getting warm at the same time and engine temp staying low? That's for sure a stuck open or partially stuck open stat. Dealer part isn't much more than quality aftermarket or may even cost the same and is much better quality, grab a stat and gasket and swap it out. These engines warm up pretty quick when it's all working correctly.

Will do man thank you for the help.

 

[Bitter]

Just in case you haven't done one before, a 1/4 swivel adapter and a deep 10mm socket will get the nut off the thermostat housing with the alternator installed. Just be careful around the back of the alternator and don't short the power cable out!

 

[7thgennick]

Just in case you haven't done one before, a 1/4 swivel adapter and a deep 10mm socket will get the nut off the thermostat housing with the alternator installed. Just be careful around the back of the alternator and don't short the power cable out!

I have done it before but never that way, thank you for rhe tip.