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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
alright guys im stumped, ive been working on this issue for a while, searching threads and trying anything i find.

i have a 2000 celica gt auto (stock). the problem is my car will run fine for a while and then i get random bog downs, to the point that i have to pull over and shut the car off. it boggs down when i hit the gas, no acceleration, barely can get it to 20 mph to get it down the street. when i park it at my house and later try to figure out what it is i start it up and it runs fine again... wtf its like chasing a ghost. previously i was getting a p0171, but after i replaced the upstream o2 sensor it went away and has yet to return. the problem still happens at random times.

i tryed cleaning the spark plugs, cleaning the injectors, disconnected and reconnected all the vacuum hoses to verify no leaks, new o2 sensor, cleaned the maf, cleaned the air filter.and still get the problems every now and then.

frustrating as hell lol.

thanks guys for any advice or help.
 

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from your post it seems like i had the same identical problem. i have a 00 GT automatic. try replacing the MAF sensor. i had my original MAF went bad at 90-100K miles. my check engine light wasn't on but i had a bad maf. i was driving and suddenly loss power/throttle. i could not rev and the idle went low. i unplugged the MAF and it went into "limp" mode where i could just drive it and couldn't accelerate over 3K rpm.

try this, when your car is on and you have the bogging/acceleration problem, unplug the MAF with the engine still on and it should go to a 800-1K idle. your CEL will turn on. you should be able to rev it and drive. if you try to accelerate it past 3K rpm it will be like you're hitting the rev limiter. just try to avoid hills.

when you try to start your car with the MAF unplugged, give it some light throttle to keep it from cutting out.

MAFs range $20-$50 used. you could use the same one from a 03-08 corolla, 02-09 camry, 04-10 TC, 00-05 MR2. they are different part numbers but should get you up and running. i've got a spare in my toolbox after this experience.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks guys for your replies, i tryed disconnecting the maf while its on, the car cuts out. i restart it without the maf plugged in and it idles like it did before hand. the idle is like its going to bog out and stall out. im not convinced its my maf, its clean as can be and i can read it with my opentuner, everything seems to check out with the maf. any other ideas of what it could be?

thanks again guys
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
yeah, in fact it does the opposite, i press the throttle and it bogs more. so today i ended up replacing the maf, i havnt had the issue of bogging while driving yet, however i havnt had that problem for a few days anyways so no way to know if that went away. as for the idle it still idles a bit rough, it drops down slowly past 600 rpms and starts chugging, like its going to stall, sounds like its starved.
 

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as for the idle it still idles a bit rough, it drops down slowly past 600 rpms and starts chugging, like its going to stall, sounds like its starved.
If your throttle is DWB, turn key on, install pedal depressor on yr gas pedal, remove intake hose and clean your throttle body with carb/inake cleaner really good with a rag, make sure you get all the carbon build up around the throttle plate and the plate itself.
Diconnect your battery, wait for a few minutes, reconnect, start, rev a few times, then let it idle, see if it smoothes out.
Same deal for the cable driven throttle, you just have to hold it open.

Have you diconencted your battery at some point during pokingaround trying to fig. out what was wrong? ECU loses its learned values after the battery is disconnected and it always causes engines to idle bad if the TB is dirty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
well i took it to the mechanic, he couldnt find anything wrong besides the fact that its running really rich for some reason, and that its undrivable haha. he told me to take it to the dealer because he thinks its corrupt programming on the ecu. the dealer is going to be the last ditch effort since they will rape me for money. so far ive changes out the MAF, Sparkplugs, o2 sensor, disconnected and reconnected the vacuum lines, cleaned the injectors, and cleared the ECU multiple times. i guess the only other thing i can do it clean the TB and reset the ecu again. its gotten to the point that i can no longer even drive it on occasion. it does it constantly now.

thanks guys for the ideas and help, i hope this can get fixxed
 

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You had it infront of a Mechanic, Running Rich at Idle, and he Can't Figure it out.. Change Mechanics..

This is not rockett Science.. Simple Feed Back Loop Stuff..

IF < IF > the ECU is in Closed Loop.. then it will Idle at 14.7.. Or kill itself trying..

So.. if you have an Engine that is unable to Idle at 14.7 AFR.. watch the Short Fuel Trim.. If it's Growing and Shrinking by BIG Numbers.. then you Might have an Injector Problem.. or A fuel Delevery Problem..

Fuel Injector Cleaner won't do Squat to a Dirty Injector.. Need to have them removed and Cleaned..

Need to install a Fuel Pressure Gauge you can see..

I'm thinking the Place you need to go, is find an OBD2 Code reader Scanner that does Live Data, and watch your Fuel Trims.. I'll Bet they ar Marching all over the Place..

Corupt data.. Like that one.. People that don't know **** about how things really work, blame the Computers..

Cap
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
bringing my thread back to life! lol

so im still having the same problem as before if anything it has gotten worse, i havnt driven it much the last couple months because of it, and have been working on the supra.

new info, the problem seems to go away when i plug my innovate OT-2 into the obd 2. this being said, the problem doesnt seem to be mechanical or physical. the instant the OT-2 connects and the vehicle ecu light comes on, it goes from chugging and almost stalling, to a near perfect idle...

i took it into toyota, and they said they couldnt even connect to the ecu diagnostics. and the first thing they would check is for bare or loose wires, though they dont really have a clue as to the real problem. so i cant afford to pay 120 per hour just for them to play around and tinker with it.

-other possibly non related problems-
AC doesnt work, its charged, compressor is good, when the AC button is pressed it works great for about 3 seconds then the light starts blinking and it trips off. this has been happening since the main problem has been happening.

im chasing a ghost guys, lol thanks for all who have posted before and i could use any other ideas no matter how off the wall they may be, anything could help at this point!!!
 

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In my opinion, and please feel free to correct me if im wrong, it could be a few different factors but the two that stick out to me and are the most probable is the maf sensor is bad or the actual ecu itself is bad, neither are that big a deal to replace, you can pick up a second hand ecu for your model on ebay for next to nothing, just make sure the part numbers match ha!!!
 

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alright im going to have to bump this. i am having the exact same problem. it is starting to piss me off. i cant stand how little power it has. mine will rev over 3000 but it takes forever and there is no power. the car is running rich. also burning lots of oil. oil consumption doubled the day this started happening. did you fix it? i need help please. mine is a 2000 gt 5 speed.
 

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Turns out the timing chain had jumped a tooth. It snapped a couple days ago. So I'm going to replace that, get new rings, and drill more holes in the pistons to stop the oil consumption.
 

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Sorry to be resurrecting this ancient post...
I recently bought a 2000 GTS, private sale, previous owner said it needed the timing chain and covers replaced.
Welp, 10 days later I park the car and won't touch it because it overheats within 2 minutes and I just *knew* it was the head.
A month and 2g later, timing and head brand new (mechanic even shined up my engine bay for me!) BUT now we have the same issue as in this thread. Mechanic is stumped but sure it's electrical so bringing in his specialist dude.
I legit can't drive my car up a hill, the engine just *won't*
The bog feels like fuel injection issues, but this wasn't a issue before the head gasket went out. She bogged down, wouldn't accelerate, overheated, and I promptly pulled over and had her towed.
Exact same issues with this thread though, so really hoping maybe someone figured out the root issue...or any ideas on what it could be. Mechanic is thinking a sensor not regulating power.
I'm worried it's something worse. Previous owner didn't take care of this car. Like, didn't even understand replacing fuses and relays, soooo...kinda a clusterf*ck of little issues here...
 

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Did you check compression on all cylinders?

If compressions are low or uneven between cylinders, it could be worn piston rings or valve seal leaks Engine woudl run rough and weak, sometimes cannot start.

Do a dry compression test then a wet one with oil in cylinders to find out if compression loss is due to worn piston rings or valve seals leak.

Compression can be improved drastically by flushing oil with Motor Medic Engine flush ($5 Walmart). It will dissolve and clean out hardened oil varnish on rings and valves, restoring compression. It can make engine run strong and smooth.

Engine oil should be cleaned and flushed with this treament every 5,6 oil changes. My enegine was running very rough, lots of vibration due to uneven compression after 50,000 miles of adding but not changing oil. Engine flush dumped out about half quart of thick black mud. Engine ran smooth and strong like new after.
 
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