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Back from the dead, just confirmed this is also my issue with the water leak on the passenger side rear roof, driver side has some splitting in the seam sealer as well. I'm less confident I'll be able to save the channel filler drip rail trim thing so I'm going to buy a new one on the passenger side and that will be my first go at it. Found one on eBay for $60 shipped, I'll order it tonight and mess with it once it comes in before I finish detailing the car.
 

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I forget if it was mentioned at this point but just in case: its tacked down in 2 small spots, Hit it with a heat gun in the front and use a small pick taped up or plastic pick, it will pry right up then do same for the back. If it gets gouged a replacement may be the way to go though, metal rod inside, if it starts to rust may look ugly. I was pretty rough with mine because I used a blow drier instead of a real gun, not the best choice. Replacement may be best though now that I think about it, all that baking in the sun and exposure over the years probably shrank it and discolored it.
 

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I didn't pull mine off too gently as I already have a replacement on order coming in soon, so those blobs of glue remove with heat? I probably could have just caulked the back part but I didn't know if it was split farther forward, turns out it's not. I really didn't need to pull the channel trim out but it's out now. I could probably massage it back into shape and re-use it but for $65 shipped I may as well just replace them, it's a fairly small price to pay. I'll hang onto the old parts in case I need them again in another 20 years.

My tube of window weld urethane is no good anymore, I'll get a new one and some small sanding blocks to do some other work with the car and touch up paint over areas. Damn birds and previous owner.
 

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so those blobs of glue remove with heat?
Yup, see attached pic1-2, two blobs are highlighted in black front/back labeled as adhesive tape. I used 3m black weather strip adhesive two blobs to hold the moulding after sealant cured. Attaching all excerpts just to help out in case others find this thread. Mine also wasn't cracked all the way down, but there was some light cracking about midway, not huge cracks like towards the rear area. My sealant was also cracking along the same seam as it moves towards the luggage compartment, attached pic of seam sealant diagram to illustrate the seam area im talkin about.

note: in case it isn't obvious to whomever may read this in the future, the attached pics outline the removal and installation of the roof moulding, it assumes the seam sealant is undamaged. It has nothing to do with repairing the cracked sealant.
 

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Thank you.

Honestly the stuff feels like black silicone where my two dabs of glue are, it's fairly warm here in the garage and they're not soft at all. 86F isn't warm enough to unstuck glue, otherwise that glue would be melted all summer long on any hot day and the trim would have blown off the roof 20 years ago.

I'll caulk the whole channel, I'm going to do a blob at either end for sure, any reason not to do one in the middle too to keep it from popping up?
 

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Agreed with you on that, thats why I initially used a hair dryer as I figured the florida sun would already have it near proper release temperature, not sure if the heat helped at all. I think maybe the repair manual might have been mistaken/outdated there about the temp and adhesive tape. The install section details it coming out of a tube, so def not tape. Mine was also just a small little blob of black and was nearly flattened out too (i think I posted pics of my bare seam showing the black earlier in this thread) It is probably just a silicone, I ended up using the 3m super black weather strip because I found toyota recommended it for moulding applications, im sure theres other options I just didnt want to enter an autistic rabbit hole trying to learn what wont off gas corrosive stuff since I dont know much about that.

You could put some in the middle, probably wouldnt hurt, unless -- maybe im over thinking this but could it potentially not have used adhesive in the middle because the engineers felt a middle dab could cause water to dam in the center and sit there, instead of flowing down the channel?
 

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Good point about water flow. I already have a tube of weather strip adhesive for it's many other uses (mild loc-tite, sticking gaskets in place, glue anything to anything, etc), but I may use the windo-weld to stick the strip down since it's non hardening. I also used windo-weld a few years ago to re-adhere the hood skin to the hood bracing to quiet the hood and stop highway speed hood wobble.
 

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Got the new trim today, looks awesome. Got the Windo-weld which will get exactly 1/16th used then sit around on a shelf to cure into a solid block for when I need it again, so this time I'll try to store it in the back corner of the freezer. Maybe that'll slow the cure to a glacial pace let me use it again in a few years when I need some.
 

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Seam sealed! I used a small flat blade screw driver like a putty knife and spread the Windo-weld sealer around the cracked area above the hatch and continued the bead of sealer forward as there were some smaller cracks the whole length and at the front above the edge of the windsheild. I gave that 24 hours to cure then I applied more Windo-weld to the original lumps of glue and one daub in the middle of the channel then inserted the new trim and it's curing. It fits so much tighter brand new than the old one and the other side fit. Both old ones are loose in the channel and you can tap on them and they would move up and down. The new one sits in and does not move at all, it's also got a nice satin finish which I was able to approximate on the other side with some 3000 grit sand paper so they at least look the same at a glance now.

I'm going to do the other side, probably next year. As far as I know it's not leaking over there.
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