[LannVouivre]

This year I'm able to do a rebuild of my engine (worn rings and low compression). Just got a job recently at the local Toyota dealership as an apprentice technician and my mentor is cool with helping me do this.

My budget is somewhat limited, so I can't do anything insane, but I'd like to upgrade at least something in there.

Here are my criteria:
I'm going to run at 79.5 mm bore, so that is set in stone.
I'd rather not do something that will require that I get a tune although I have an AEM FIC, because the local one has too much work on his hands right now and has never worked with AEM, just domestic. That will have to wait a while until I can like...go out of town.
I don't plan on exceeding the stock rev limiter.
I don't care if the car vibrates and firmly believe my passengers can pretty much just die in a fire if they have any complaints.
My fuel consumption must not exceed that of my BF's 2004 impala LS, which gets 19.6-25 mpg.
Parts upgrade budget is $400-550.

The three possibilities I'm looking at are:
Crower stage 1 N/A cams
Crower stage 2 N/A cams
WISECO 12.0:1 pistons in 79.5 bore, assuming the stock rods can handle it and the stock ECU can handle it (unless MWR has a base tune for that); I suspect the stock ECU cannot do it as it changes the volume of the cylinders in a way as well.

Other info about what I have (regarding the engine):
Short air intake, thrush welded muffler (yes, for real), DC Sports header
The stupid 4-speed automatic transmission
2006 "Pontiac" Vibe base FWD (so the DBW Corolla engine and ECU)
This is my daily driver

I'd like to run boost at some point, but that's a ways off anyway. I'm hoping to get at least a little tiny bit more kick because I'm sick of people just having to speed up a tiny bit to stop me passing on small highways because that shit is dangerous.

 

[Bitter]

Well a C60 and a 2ZZ would be the best bet, but I assume that's out of budget. $400-$500 isn't going to get you much in parts. Just fix it up to stock really, you don't even have budget for higher comp pistons as those start at just over $500. You may be happy with a healthy stock 1ZZ. Even a cam and the correct valve work and shims will put you back more than your total budget, you already need to buy some gasket sets as it is.

 

[LannVouivre]

Well a C60 and a 2ZZ would be the best bet, but I assume that's out of budget. $400-$500 isn't going to get you much in parts. Just fix it up to stock really, you don't even have budget for higher comp pistons as those start at just over $500. You may be happy with a healthy stock 1ZZ. Even a cam and the correct valve work and shims will put you back more than your total budget, you already need to buy some gasket sets as it is.

The budget I mention is what I have left over after gaskets, machinework and such

 

[Bitter]

ah, still too small.

 

[LannVouivre]

I may be able to go higher, it just depends on how fast my BF vacuums up money (his job won't give him more hours). Relationships are awful like that : /

I may just go ahead and wait to do cams, in that case. I have heard that sometimes people don't have to change the shims for clearance when they switch to new cams, and I do get a massive discount on OEM Toyota parts. Like, I got my DENSO iridium plugs for something like $5 apiece.

Right now, my car doesn't even pull as hard as a Prius. I get 0-60 in a little over 13 seconds with a low fuel tank and no passengers or cargo. I'm really hoping that the rebuild will help decently because my mentor gives me "looks" when I tell him how much faster the customers' Priuses feel

Anyway, would you recommend the stage 2s or 1s, when the time comes? Would the valves/seats regrind change the clearances much and make shims a necessity?

The pistons I was figuring into my base budget (with the cost of machinework and the gaskets/bolts and such) were MWR's stock-style 79.5 mm pistons.

 

[Bitter]

Stage 2 of course, assuming you can tune it. No sense going smaller since they cost the same. I'd talk to DDPR about this, see what input they have since they do 1ZZ's in MR2's often enough.

 

[LannVouivre]

Thanks, Bitter. Really appreciate it. Wish I knew more about modification, most of my auto tech classes have been "manufacturer's specifications."

I'm hoping either the local shop will be able to work with me soon, or that I can just get away to go get tuning done.

 

[Smaay]

first off, are you planning on boosting said engine? If not, then why are you spending so much money on parts you dont need.

If this is going to be a daily driver, then all you need is the MWR 79.5mm pistons, have the cylinders bored to match the pistons. install and go!

you dont need any tuning, you dont need to use that POS AEM FIC (they dont work well with toyota ECU's)

you for sure dont need aftermarket expensive cams. and you really DONT need wiseco pistons

 

[hughesjasonk]

http://www.spyderchat.com/forums/showthread.php?60345-fully-built-1zz-motor&highlight=mwr+rods

I know for a fact that it's still available. There's about 100-200 miles on the motor. it's ready for boost.

 

[andreww]

What you should really do is swap out that auto slushbox for either a C56 or C60, then you'll pick up a fair bit of speed. Even with the auto though, it's odd that your 0-60 is so slow, especially with a SRI and exhaust. Something has to be up with your engine if it's putting out such crap performance. Tear it apart, find what's broken, and fix that.

 

[Celicasaur]

I can't see this working...

 

[Bitter]

Yea the 0-60 is so bad because she probably has boiled potato for compression. Auto 1ZZ wagon should be around 8-9 seconds tops right?

 

[LannVouivre]

Thanks for the feedback.

Yea the 0-60 is so bad because she probably has boiled potato for compression. Auto 1ZZ wagon should be around 8-9 seconds tops right?

Absolutely correct!

My numbers for compression were:
1 was 155 psi (dry); 195 (wet)
2 was 180; 200
3 was 180; 210
4 was 150; 190

Notice that 1 and 4 are 25 and 30 psi different from 2 and 3; maximum allowable is 15 psi variation via Toyota specs.

The plan is to use the MWR OEM-style pistons. If I have any valve problems, I will have to look at them anyway to change the pistons since the head has to come off. If I got the cams, I would prefer used since they are rather expensive for a very small amount of HP. The reason I asked here is because only you and the MR2 guys do much modding on these engines, and I know almost nothing technical about doing modifications. The Matrix, Corolla, and Vibe forums have almost zilch.

I can't quite afford to straight-out buy that guy's built right now. Same for the manual transmission, which I do really want but I really need to fix the compression on 1 and 4 first. I got this car when I was 17 after it had been a rental for 38k miles, and I only have 100k on it now so I really did a number on it as a teenager.

Anyway, I was wanting to learn to do a proper overhaul, although I can't do the bore on the block and refinishing the crank. I have the perfect opportunity right now to rebuild it, and those worn rings are NG (No Good).

I do want to do boost, but that's really far in the future, right now I just need to bring my compression up to stock. The reason I was looking at cams is because they're easy to install and the stage 1s don't require a tune, although a tune would get more out of them.

There's a C60 at the local yard that I can get next year, plus the shifter etc for $875, but I would need an ECU and I don't know what wiring differences there might be between the auto and manual harnesses. I know someone who did an 03-04 auto to manual swap, but that's the DBC version. Until I know exactly what I'm getting into, I'm stuck with the autotragic (which I really do hate. I mean, seriously, 4-speed? 4-speeds haven't been cool for like 30 years.)

Bolded text for TLR.

 

[Smaay]

I used an auto harness on a 1ZZ to 2ZZ conversion. you just have to tie the P/N switch together and splice in the reverse.

you can bore the 1ZZ no problem.

 

[DURASPANK]

first off, are you planning on boosting said engine? If not, then why are you spending so much money on parts you dont need.

If this is going to be a daily driver, then all you need is the MWR 79.5mm pistons, have the cylinders bored to match the pistons. install and go!

you dont need any tuning, you dont need to use that POS AEM FIC (they dont work well with toyota ECU's)

you for sure dont need aftermarket expensive cams. and you really DONT need wiseco pistons

This! He's tryin to lead you in the right direction.
Your best bang fer the buck. Is a manual transmission swap.
Then just enjoy the mileage and a fun DD.

 

[andreww]

When you do the rebuild, then, be sure to re-seat the valves, or, if they're toast, to replace them. And, since you're going to need gaskets anyways, MWR sells a gasket set that has all OEM gaskets and valve stem seals, which you should also replace. Getting back to stock compression will definitely help though.

 

[LannVouivre]

My employee takes the cost of the master gasket kit down to $180 or so. It's pretty nice.

 

[dead_star04]

Rebuild it, do a 75 shot of nitrous and be done. Power hen you want it, everything else factory.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[LannVouivre]

Well, I'm finally almost done despite ending up having to do this all in my own garage due to having my school schedule get me fired.

Everything looked really good on teardown, except for the piston oil rings being caked solid down to the pistons. I'm currently just waiting for all the crankshaft bearings to arrive. I have to say that this engine was pleasantly easy to work on and remove, except for the CV axles.

It will be good to have her up and running again. My loaner car has been a 2001 PT Cruiser with the 2.4L engine, and it is the second worst car I have ever driven. I can't believe I actually wanted one when I was like 10 years old.

EDIT: Also I might not have to sell the supercharger that's been sitting in the garage on my tool cart for the past 6 months! Woo! Might even be able to install it one of these days!

 

[Bitter]

PT Looser are horrible horrible cars, I pray you never need to work on it yourself.