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Discussion Starter #1
Short question guys.
My Engine is gone, so i have to replace it with a new one and start by zero.
I think its a good time to upgrade the new engine, too. ;)
But it should be reliable for DD.
These things i want to order.
WR Complete Built Engine - Toyota 2ZZ-GE (New OEM Short Block)
- Camshafts Performance cams installed and shimmed (purchased separately)
- Connecting Rods Crower Billet Rods needed or waste of money ?
- Compression Ratio 11.5:1
- Oil Pan Moroso Oil Pan
- Oil Pump Gears Circuitworx Gears
- Port Work Head Ported
- Valve Springs MWR Performance Valve Springs and Ti Retainers
- Piper Cams - 2ZZ - BP285 (Stage 2) or Stage 3 ?
- K&N Performance Gold Oil Filter - Toyota 1ZZ, 2ZZ, 2JZ
- Fidanza Flywheel-Toyota Celica GTS, Corolla/Matrix 2ZZ, Elise
- Hondata Intake Manifold Heat Shield Gasket - Toyota 2ZZ-GE
- NGK BKR6EIX-11 Iridium Spark Plug (4)
- MWR ARP Bolt Set - Toyota 1zz/2zz Flywheel
- Fidanza Clutch-Toyota 1ZZ 2ZZ Celica-MR2-S-Corolla-Elise - 2.1
- Energy Susp Bushing Kit - Celica/Corolla Engine Mount Inserts
- UR Pulleyset (Crank,Alternator,Waterpump)
Please keep in mind i will only use the stock ecu.
It would be nice to give your comments, maybe i forgot something, or something i want to use is useless or to weak.
Thanks Guys. :wiggle:
 

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if you are going to stick with the stock ecu then go to a junk yard and buy a used 2zzge engine.
All that money you spend on getting expensive performance parts like cams, port work and other stuff will go to waste without a tune. just my 02 cents, and you don't need rods, stock 2zzge rods are strong enough to handle 400-500 whp
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Not needed it's a totally worthless piece of crap....and I have seen them get deformed and leak.


Stock ones are amazinglly strong.


Yes but stay away of the UR Crank pulley.
Okay no Hondata and no RODs and stock flyweel bolts.
But one question i read so many people are using Stage 2 Pipers with their Stock ecu.
And some Stage 3.
Wouldn`t be there any benefits from them ?
Because Stage 2 are not cheaper than Stage 3
Why not a port work ?
I dont want to go to a junkyard.
I want a new engine with 0 miles on it. :)
Why away from the UR Crank pulley?
Mine worked fine on my former engine.
 

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without an ECU (Power FC) you cant get out the power of the stage 2 or stage 3 cams. with stock ecu you should only use the stage 2 cams. the most power output you become above 8100 rpm (stage 2 and stage 3).

why dont use the pulley. the problem is that this pulley can destroy your oilpump but in germany i dont know anyone where it happens.
 

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Okay no Hondata and no RODs and stock flyweel bolts.
But one question i read so many people are using Stage 2 Pipers with their Stock ecu.
And some Stage 3.
Wouldn`t be there any benefits from them ?
Because Stage 2 are not cheaper than Stage 3
Why not a port work ?
I dont want to go to a junkyard.
I want a new engine with 0 miles on it. :)
Why away from the UR Crank pulley?
Mine worked fine on my former engine.
Ive had no issues with my hondata gasket been on the car for a few years now.
Only a very smally increase only relay noticeable in stop/go driving where heat soak is an issue.
 

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your putting stitches on a scratch my friend...

you don't need alot of that stuff if your not going to be going all out. just get a new OE longblock and call it a day if you want 0 miles on it.

things like the MWR oil pan, cams, crank pully's...

your getting valve springs and retainers but not valves? What kind of engine are you trying to build??! If you want something for DD that still has some giddy up, get a completely stock engine (maybe get the oil pump gears) and toss on Boosted2.0's intake manifold, and call it a day.
 

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yes, most of the mods you are getting are going to be wasted if you are going to use the stock ecu. if you buy a power fc then you can tune the car, and all those mods will come to life
 

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Stock short block is the way to go for your application. I'd upgrade the oil pump for safety. If you're considering revving higher in the future then upgrade the springs and maybe retainers.

The Hondata gaskets have held up well in NA applications in my experience.
 

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Stock short block is the way to go for your application. I'd upgrade the oil pump for safety. If you're considering revving higher in the future then upgrade the springs and maybe retainers.
:werd:

I'd go for stock block with circuitworks oil pump gear.
The get stage 3 cams, valves, springs, retainers...heck get mwr to port the head as well seeing as they'll be doing your work ;)
 

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arent the valve springs good protection against over rev damage along with the oil pump gears. i would think if the springs will keep the valves from floating the stock valves should be fine on a minor over rev >10000
 

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without an ECU (Power FC) you cant get out the power of the stage 2 or stage 3 cams. with stock ecu you should only use the stage 2 cams. the most power output you become above 8100 rpm (stage 2 and stage 3).

why dont use the pulley. the problem is that this pulley can destroy your oilpump but in germany i dont know anyone where it happens.
If you Piper Stage 2/3 camshafts, you will notice good mid-range power with a stock ECU, but i definitely reccommend upgrading the ECU if you do all of those modifications.

the real reason not to change the crank pulley (unless on a race engine for the track) is that it is balanced specifically to allow so much 'wobble' from the crank. if too much 'wobble' is added all the time, then many things can go awry (such as the oil pump).

just do some research on resonance of engines and a good place to check is :

http://www.sandsmuseum.com/

look up the lotus page.
 

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simply put overkill. take the advise and stick with a stock shortblock and call it a day. If your last engine blew from overrev, learn from it and take more time shifting, dont try and build an engine that can take an overrev.
 

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You definitely need a Power FC ecu if you want to pull out the most power possible from your mods. Why don't you take you saved money from the things you don't need (gaskets, APR stud, UR crank pulley, etc.) to purchase a brand new Power FC that will allow you to maximise you hp/$$ ration ?? :)
 

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arent the valve springs good protection against over rev damage along with the oil pump gears. i would think if the springs will keep the valves from floating the stock valves should be fine on a minor over rev >10000
valves usually get bent before anything else messes up and stock ecu wont let him rev high enough to have valve float ........... valve springs are not needed for his motor
 

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if you are going to stick with the stock ecu then go to a junk yard and buy a used 2zzge engine.
All that money you spend on getting expensive performance parts like cams, port work and other stuff will go to waste without a tune. just my 02 cents, and you don't need rods, stock 2zzge rods are strong enough to handle 400-500 whp
2zz rods can handle 250-275whp
but if your not doing fi and its a dd then just stick with a 2zz from junk yard and do a few bolt ons
 

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So what's the hp that the stock rods can handle? I'm planning to just change the pistons for reliability on 12psi of boost, it's ok to leave the stock rods and just change the studs?
 
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