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If you have a Torx set, you can try jamming one in there with a hammer. Worked for me.

Make sure you spray the threads thoroughly with PB Blaster and let it sit for 10-15 minutes.
 

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im in the middle of changing all my end links, the fronts are done and the left rear is done too. what i did was use a handsaw to cut the olld links off as close as possible to the bolt so when i finished cutting it would simply slide right out, its worked for 6/8 bolts already. takes about 20 mins each bolt with a few breaks.
Probably unconventional, but it works!
 

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Discussion Starter #26
those front endlinks from a local auto parts store is like 47 bucks each you must be rolling in dough haha
 

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Old thread I know but just did them on ours the other day after getting tired of hearing that clunk sound on bumps at slow speeds. No way to remove the allen nut (seized) so I cut off the first link end, then realized it was way easier/faster to tear the boot and get a vice grip on the stud. Took 5-10 minutes apiece for the remaining 3 ends this way. Took a couple tries to make sure it was biting really good but wasn't too bad. Hopefully this helps anyone in the future.

Used Moog problem solver end links and if I ever need to remove them again the backside takes a 18mm wrench to hold while you bolt/unbolt the nut. Much better. And no more clunk too :) .
 

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If you heat the ball socket with a torch you can melt the plastic socket and use a pry bar or long screw driver and just push the link right off the ball. That works pretty well to get the link off and give a big thing to grab with a pair of vice grips. Then heat the nut a little and go to town cranking it off!
 

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If you heat the ball socket with a torch you can melt the plastic socket and use a pry bar or long screw driver and just push the link right off the ball. That works pretty well to get the link off and give a big thing to grab with a pair of vice grips. Then heat the nut a little and go to town cranking it off!
This.^^ Or if things are really frozen like mine were, cut them off with a whizzer. (air powered cut off wheel)
 

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Just wow lol....that Allen nut isn't seized lmao....use an Allen wrenches and a box end wrench. Use Allen wrenches to keep ball joint from spinning and loosen ith wrench lol....thanks for the good laugh lol...
God bless the guy using a hacksaw lol
 

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Okay. Buddy.......first of all I'm not abkid I'm 47 years old.....second....I've been racing this car for more than ten years and have rebuilt the suspensionore than once using hand tools.....and my celli was plenty rusted when I did it...some stuff had to be cut off... Had to buy a lot of new bolts......so yeah I know about rust....I also know you appear to be threatened by anyone else who maybe has a different view than you....that's cool dude...because I still have a great example of this car and I damn sure don't have these issues alot of you seem to have.......you can take what I say with a grain of salt...you can disagree...whatever.... but you can keep your negativity to yourself lol...
Have a nice day lol
 

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Anyone can guess why rusted stuff is so hard to remove?.........it's because when a steel bolt gets rusted or any part really.....because the actually makes the bolt thicker than it was...effectively "rust welding' it into place....my terminology..not a real term
 

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You seem to think you can just stuff an allen in the head of the stud and spin the nut right off by hand. That does not work on OEM stuff that's been on for a decade in road salt in the midwest. The inset hex will have rusted up to a circle with no sides so any allen wrench you hammer into it will just spin. I've done more end links on more cars than you know and very rarely do they come apart in the intended way. Most times the torch comes out and a few minutes with oxy/acet ends up with a hot nut zipped off with the air impact and vice grips grabbed onto the shank under the boot tightened down with another pair of vice grips.

Salt gets to these cars so bad up here, the rear suspension adjusting bolts totally seize into the bushing sleeves and there's no way to get more than maybe 1/2 degree of adjustment but you're binding the bushing up tight to get even that. It's not just a Celica or Toyota problem either, it affects all kinds of cars in salt.
 

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Yes exactly...stuff an Allen in there lol...use a smaller one if the holes no longer big enough....I also had to cut off the toe bolts and replace
 

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You're not getting it, there's not enough metal left in the inset hex for anything to bite into. Rust has turned the hex into a round hole, even when you hammer an allen in there it'll still slip and spin and if you try to heat it with the allen pounded in there then you ruin the heat treat on your tool and it rounds because it's been softened. I've tried with allen, I've even tried to hammer in Torx. Tool trucks don't like to warranty sockets with hammer marks on them.
 

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Then see second post about vice grips
See, but when you try all of that and you end up still unable to make anything move, it's the hacksaw. I've had to do it myself. Bitter faces these issues every day.

Georgia rust is a cakewalk compared to up here.
 
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