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Hello, I would like to find out if its hard to replace the o-ring on Chain tensioner. Dealer quoted me $188 but I was wondering if I can just go ahead and do it myself.
Thank you.
 

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Daddy Daycare
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Considering that the o-ring itself is so cheap ($5 or less) I'd recommend you do it yourself if you're mechanically inclined.
The work involves a couple of things:
-The belt tensioner has to be backed out in order for the chain tensioner to clear the bracket and be removed.
-Chain tensioner has to be reset and reinstalled after you change the o-ring, make sure the engine has been placed at TDC and crank 0 for cylinder 1 before removing everything and make sure it doesn't turn.
-If you don't manage to unlock the pin of the chain tensioner once it's installed by turning the crank slightly counterclockwise you will have to remove the valvecover and do it from up top with a screwdriver.
 

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It's not that hard if you have the tools to get the job done. I know on my GTS I had to remove the mount for the belt tensioner before I could slide the tentsioner all the way out...
 

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ASE Master Technician
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dont spend money on the tensioner. use rtv to seal it back up. it wont leak. i know the dealer can not get just the rubber o-ring. you must buy the tensioner with the o-ring. the tensioner will outlive your car. if you do replace make sure you use the little lock pin on it and install it in the correct orientation. dont put it in upside down. also turn crank by hand after install to allow the spring to put tension on the chain. if you start the car without doing this it could jump teeth.
 

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Daddy Daycare
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Even buying a brandnew tensioner with o-ring isn't expensive, unless you consider $18 expensive, which is what mine cost at the dealership. Even a thermostat is more expensive than that.
 

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yes it is cheap if you dont screw up. anyone can seal this with rtv with no risk of messing anything up. some people would take this as the safe route. some people are not mechanically inclined. it is very easy to screw up timing while replaceing this tensioner. its a simple part with only 2 bolts but you risk screwing up timing and or distroying your motor.
 

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I dont mean to be a thread thief but is the belt tensioner any harder to replace. Granted it only has two screws Im not sure if im actually looking at the right piece.
 

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Daddy Daycare
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I dont mean to be a thread thief but is the belt tensioner any harder to replace. Granted it only has two screws Im not sure if im actually looking at the right piece.
^That is not a Celica belt tensioner.

And the Celica belt tensioner isn't so easy to replace for the average noob. It involves losening the engine mount on the fender side and jacking u the engine so the main belt tensioner bolt clears the frame rail, otherwise it's not coming out.
 

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^That is not a Celica belt tensioner.

And the Celica belt tensioner isn't so easy to replace for the average noob. It involves losening the engine mount on the fender side and jacking u the engine so the main belt tensioner bolt clears the frame rail, otherwise it's not coming out.
Yea Im no noob but I just dont have the right tools for it. But my friends do. :gap:

But thanks for the info. Sounds simple enough. Now I gotta find which is the right one.
 

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ASE Master Technician
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i work at a toyota dealership as a tech. i had to priced a tensioner the other day for a 1zz. parts could not find a part number for the o ring. the only option they gave me was to replace it for the customer. i dont know where you got that part number from or what you mean by oem catalog. here is a link to toyotaparts sales http://www.trademotion.com/partloca...043&callout=23&catalogid=1&displayCatalogid=0
they dont have a seperate part for the o-ring either.
 

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I tried applying RTV around the tensioner base but it di not fix the leak. RTV will not seal oil leak; the O ring does that job.

Another GTS 2ZZ engine had an oil leak from the timing chain tensioner. I unscrewed the 2x 10 mm hex nuts, the tensioner popped out but got blocked by the bracket holding the belt tensioner.

I tried to back out the 17 mm bolt holding the bracket to engine block but it was way too tight and did not move, even extended with a second box wrench. I was afraid of breaking something so I stopped.

I shaved off the interference spot on the aluminum with a long serrated knife, but it still snagged the tensioner. I tried to push tensioner back in but the spring was way too stiff, could not push it in. I was very stuck, called AAA to tow it to a very good local mechanic. He refused to do the job, saying I may have moved the timing chain and inserting the tensioner in may make the chain jump teeth, damaging engine. He said to do it properly, he would set the engine at Top Dead Center before they remove the tensioner, so they would know exactly where the chain should be. But he was nice enough to let me use the lift for half hour and loan me all his tools to do the job myself so he will not be liable. I did not use the lift; the tensioner is easier accessed from the top..

I used a file to grind down the bracket some more but it still interfered. Finally I placed a long flat head screw driver against the tensioner and knocked it out with a hammer. It cleared the bracket. Put a new O ring on, compressed the spring, try to insert it back in, but it again got snagged by that bracket and could not go in. I used a small hammer and knocked it in. After a dozen knocks It cleared the bracket and went into the hole.

Tightened down the 2 10 mm hex nuts. Put a 10 mm box wrench on the alternator's pulley and rolled it CCW to turn the engine backward about 1/4 turn, heard the metallic click of the tensioner's plunger popping out. I was ready to restart the engine. The whole shop was looking at the engine, waiting to see it blow up. I jiggered the ignition a few times, it felt OK, so I cranked the engine; it started right up smoothly. Drove it home and checked the tensioner, no more oil leak.

Whew! I was so happy I got out of that jam. That tensioner's plunger does not push against the chain itself, but only against a plastic chain guard, so as long as you don't turn or crank the engine after removing the tensioner, the chain does not move.

i would recommend using a power drill with a long, small drill bit to grind down the interference spot on the belt tensioner bracket before releasing the tensioner and get it stuck. It's a lot easier than backing out the bracket by turning the 17 mm bolt. I think starting MY 2002 this bracket was modified so there was no interference.

The mechanic quoted $100 to remove the tensioner and replace the O ring to stop an oil leak. Unless the bros have done this job before and know how to deal with the interfering bracket, considering many hours it may take and the risk of chain jumping teeth, I would suggest letting the mechanic do it to avoid getting into a jam like I did.

If you DIY, I suggest you put the engine in TDC by removing all 4 spark plugs, put a straw into cyl 1 and turn the crank shaft until the straw is in the highest position. Then use a power drill to shave off the interfering mass on the bracket before releasing the tensioner..

I have removed this tensioner 4 times in 3 cars to fix oil leaks. Don't ever turn or crank the engine with the tensioner out or the chain will jump teeth and damage the engine.
 

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If oil is leaking out of the timing chain tensioner, try using RTV first in a simple and less risky fix:

1. Back the 2x 10 mm nuts holding the tensioner about 1 mm. Dont take the nuts out completely.
2. Spray brake / engine solvent cleaner around the tensioner.
3. Soak a clean rag with solvent cleaner, clean all around the tensioner, the mating surfaces between it and engine block.
4. squeeze a bead of RTV all around the tensioner, pressing it in between mating surfaces.
5. Tighten 2 x 10 mm nuts.

This way you don't risk having the tensioner interfere with the bracket.
 
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