I'm already at nearly $2k in parts, another $2k is out of the question, which is why I'm doing anything I can to keep costs down. Hitting $4k in repairs makes this a total loss for me since I'm already streched thin by the initial cost.I wasn't suggesting outsourcing the labor. But, if the head is good, a shortblock is prolly around $2k.
Luckily, I haven't spent any money outside of cleaning supplies, so I still have the option to sell what I can. But that's still not acceptable to me, because I've already practically restored this car functionally before this happened. So now I'm basically near the top of the mountain stuck on whether to keep climbing or turn back. If I press on, I'll be $2k in the hole. But if I turn back I'm unfortunately going to have to get rid of the car, and it's is just too nice to let go like that. It's definitely a shitty scenario all around, but I'm going to just go for it and put her back together, and if it doesn't work, it's a hard lesson learned. If it does work, then it will be some good info for future 2ZZ owners who may encounter the same issue.Good luck. Put it back together & cross your fingers. I would have suggested it earlier if you'd posted about the cylinder walls sooner. Kind of a rock & a hard place for ya. 😞
Which question? There was a few ? Marks. I dont like reading big paragraphs so i briefly skimmed.I haven't been able to get much done this week, but so far it's just been more solvent and scrubbing. Gotten plenty of small bits of copper and steel off the walls of the crankcase, so I'm glad for that. I did notice odd wear marks in 3 of the upper crankcase walls, I'll attach the relevant photos. My only guess is that somehow the top of the connecting rods bumped into those spots, but my assumption is that must've happened when first assembled because if that happened during operation it would destroy itself. Can anybody confirm?
Also, does anybody have any answer to my previous post?
No worries, I do have a fair bit of questions atm, so sorry about that.Which question? There was a few ? Marks. I dont like reading big paragraphs so i briefly skimmed.
If you break ur paragraph into smaller sections im more likely to read it. Its kind of a peeve of mine. Sorry mate
2000 GTS Turbo
In order, yes, but you should have ur block and head decked regardless which will clean it.No worries, I do have a fair bit of questions atm, so sorry about that.
1. What can I use to safely remove the old gasket outlines from the head gasket surface?
2. What can I use to clean the rock hard carbon of the valve faces?
3. Can I leave my valves in place and clean around them as I clean the head?
4. Are the small wear marks (circled in red) in pictures 1, 2, and 4 out of the ordinary?
Thanks for your answers, for question 1, what should I use? I've seen so many things that other's use but all of them seem risky with aluminum.In order, yes, but you should have ur block and head decked regardless which will clean it.
A polishing pad on a drimel works very well, soak it with brake clean first.
Yes you can, i would suggest removing all the crud in the ports you can with out damaging the valves. Id suggest replacing them and getting better springs and retainers.
... no not really... so that thats from is i assume the engine getting hot and the piston rods expanding and hitting the block on rotation. It does happen... but its not a good thing lol... but it wont hurt anything now, its more like self clearencing.
2000 GTS Turbo
It is to my understanding that the only time you deck heads is when the mating surface is blemished or warped. Until I clean and measure them, I can't make the determination that they require such service. I have seen plenty of engines live long, healthy lives without being decked, that's the point of taking critical measurements.No, take it to a machine shop, this isnt a consideration to make this is necessary.
2000 GTS Turbo
I'm using a precision straight-edge and feeler gauges in order to determine surface flatness (this is what the factory service manual specifies). I have only used carb cleaner and a nylon brush to clean material off so far, and the point I've hit is that solvent and scrubbing is no longer strong enough to remove the really baked on crud. I'm trying to get that stuff off safely, because I've done a great job of not damaging the aluminum so far. The problem is that there's not much more abrasive I can get without risking the surface finish.It will guarantee a straight fiat and true surface. That’s something you can’t guarantee it already is nor if you use a gasket scraper, whizzer wheel or razor blade.
Machine shop will deck the block and or head in a surface grinder, clean flat surface to start with.