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Discussion Starter · #121 ·

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Electromagnetic Wave :-h
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I wasn't suggesting outsourcing the labor. But, if the head is good, a shortblock is prolly around $2k.
 

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Discussion Starter · #123 ·
I wasn't suggesting outsourcing the labor. But, if the head is good, a shortblock is prolly around $2k.
I'm already at nearly $2k in parts, another $2k is out of the question, which is why I'm doing anything I can to keep costs down. Hitting $4k in repairs makes this a total loss for me since I'm already streched thin by the initial cost.
 

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Electromagnetic Wave :-h
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Good luck. Put it back together & cross your fingers. I would have suggested it earlier if you'd posted about the cylinder walls sooner. Kind of a rock & a hard place for ya. 😞
 

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Discussion Starter · #125 ·
Good luck. Put it back together & cross your fingers. I would have suggested it earlier if you'd posted about the cylinder walls sooner. Kind of a rock & a hard place for ya. 😞
Luckily, I haven't spent any money outside of cleaning supplies, so I still have the option to sell what I can. But that's still not acceptable to me, because I've already practically restored this car functionally before this happened. So now I'm basically near the top of the mountain stuck on whether to keep climbing or turn back. If I press on, I'll be $2k in the hole. But if I turn back I'm unfortunately going to have to get rid of the car, and it's is just too nice to let go like that. It's definitely a shitty scenario all around, but I'm going to just go for it and put her back together, and if it doesn't work, it's a hard lesson learned. If it does work, then it will be some good info for future 2ZZ owners who may encounter the same issue.
 

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Electromagnetic Wave :-h
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Yeah, I spent nearly $2K just transporting it back & forth from DDPR. LOL But, I didn't trust anyone here & figured that having a running car was worth it vs. a shell w/no engine. Even if it runs & burns oil.... it's better than not running at all. ;)
 
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Discussion Starter · #127 ·
All right, sorry about the radio silence guys. Winter hit and the cold made working on the engine difficult, so I just put it up for a while waiting for the weather to start warming up. On top of that, finances got stretched thin to the point where I had nothing to put into it, so I had to save up on the side until I could come back to it. I HAVE NOT GIVEN UP ON IT, and now that the money is flowing back in, I'm slowly but surely collecting the parts needed to begin the rebuild. I will hopefully not have such large gaps in updates past this point.
 
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Discussion Starter · #128 ·
Another update, so I finally got the last few parts in and now with the warmer weather rolling in I'll be finally giving the engine it's initial cleaning. I'll be updating after I get that done and posing pictures of my next concerns going forward. As noted earlier, some of the bores and pistons are pretty rough and have notable scratches raising concerns around that. Another concern I have is that when I split the block I went out of sequence when cracking and removing the bolts. I also got small nicks on the camshafts runners when I was cracking the head bolts that also need to be addressed. My current plan is to gently scuff those smooth and ensure everything is as close to spec as possible. If all checks out then I'll be able to proceed with assembly.
 
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Discussion Starter · #129 ·
Wood Automotive tire Pattern Auto part Automotive exterior
Wood Machine tool Automotive tire Gas Machine
Plant Wood Building Gas Concrete
Plant Wood Gas Font Automotive wheel system


All right, so I'm finally back on this project and it feels good to be moving forward. I got some cleaning done on the head, mostly all the built up grime and crap that I could normally never reach and I'm pleased to see how much shine the block has still. So far I have only used a nylon brush and carb cleaner to get this done. Does anybody have any suggestions for the more baked on stuff, specifically the outlines of the old gaskets? The valves also have some rock hard carbon stuck on to some of them, mainly the exhausts, my current attempts haven't done much and I'm hesitant to bump up to anything abrasive.

I'm also getting ready to replace the intake rockers and figured I might as well pull out both rocker shafts and give them a good cleaning, as well as cleaning the exhaust rockers up while I have it all apart. When it comes to the valves, could I leave them in place and clean as much as I can like that? I detected very little, if any metal particles in the head, and I will be cleaning everything up extremely thoroughly, so I would like to leave the valves in their current positions so I don't mess with anything I don't need to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #130 ·
I haven't been able to get much done this week, but so far it's just been more solvent and scrubbing. Gotten plenty of small bits of copper and steel off the walls of the crankcase, so I'm glad for that. I did notice odd wear marks in 3 of the upper crankcase walls, I'll attach the relevant photos. My only guess is that somehow the top of the connecting rods bumped into those spots, but my assumption is that must've happened when first assembled because if that happened during operation it would destroy itself. Can anybody confirm?

Also, does anybody have any answer to my previous post?
 

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I haven't been able to get much done this week, but so far it's just been more solvent and scrubbing. Gotten plenty of small bits of copper and steel off the walls of the crankcase, so I'm glad for that. I did notice odd wear marks in 3 of the upper crankcase walls, I'll attach the relevant photos. My only guess is that somehow the top of the connecting rods bumped into those spots, but my assumption is that must've happened when first assembled because if that happened during operation it would destroy itself. Can anybody confirm?

Also, does anybody have any answer to my previous post?
Which question? There was a few ? Marks. I dont like reading big paragraphs so i briefly skimmed.

If you break ur paragraph into smaller sections im more likely to read it. Its kind of a peeve of mine. Sorry mate

2000 GTS Turbo
 

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Discussion Starter · #132 ·
Which question? There was a few ? Marks. I dont like reading big paragraphs so i briefly skimmed.

If you break ur paragraph into smaller sections im more likely to read it. Its kind of a peeve of mine. Sorry mate

2000 GTS Turbo
No worries, I do have a fair bit of questions atm, so sorry about that.

1. What can I use to safely remove the old gasket outlines from the head gasket surface?

2. What can I use to clean the rock hard carbon of the valve faces?

3. Can I leave my valves in place and clean around them as I clean the head?

4. Are the small wear marks (circled in red) in pictures 1, 2, and 4 out of the ordinary?
 

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No worries, I do have a fair bit of questions atm, so sorry about that.

1. What can I use to safely remove the old gasket outlines from the head gasket surface?

2. What can I use to clean the rock hard carbon of the valve faces?

3. Can I leave my valves in place and clean around them as I clean the head?

4. Are the small wear marks (circled in red) in pictures 1, 2, and 4 out of the ordinary?
In order, yes, but you should have ur block and head decked regardless which will clean it.

A polishing pad on a drimel works very well, soak it with brake clean first.

Yes you can, i would suggest removing all the crud in the ports you can with out damaging the valves. Id suggest replacing them and getting better springs and retainers.

... no not really... so that thats from is i assume the engine getting hot and the piston rods expanding and hitting the block on rotation. It does happen... but its not a good thing lol... but it wont hurt anything now, its more like self clearencing.

2000 GTS Turbo
 

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Discussion Starter · #134 ·
In order, yes, but you should have ur block and head decked regardless which will clean it.

A polishing pad on a drimel works very well, soak it with brake clean first.

Yes you can, i would suggest removing all the crud in the ports you can with out damaging the valves. Id suggest replacing them and getting better springs and retainers.

... no not really... so that thats from is i assume the engine getting hot and the piston rods expanding and hitting the block on rotation. It does happen... but its not a good thing lol... but it wont hurt anything now, its more like self clearencing.

2000 GTS Turbo
Thanks for your answers, for question 1, what should I use? I've seen so many things that other's use but all of them seem risky with aluminum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #136 ·
A machine shop, get them decked

2000 GTS Turbo
I'll consider it then, for now I'm going to get them as clean as possible, do my measurements, then decide on any necessary machining.
 

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It will guarantee a straight fiat and true surface. That’s something you can’t guarantee it already is nor if you use a gasket scraper, whizzer wheel or razor blade.

Machine shop will deck the block and or head in a surface grinder, clean flat surface to start with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #139 ·
No, take it to a machine shop, this isnt a consideration to make this is necessary.

2000 GTS Turbo
It is to my understanding that the only time you deck heads is when the mating surface is blemished or warped. Until I clean and measure them, I can't make the determination that they require such service. I have seen plenty of engines live long, healthy lives without being decked, that's the point of taking critical measurements.

It's also to my understanding that in doing the head, I ought to also do the block in order to maintain the best seal, and at that point the cost of rebuild is going to start creeping badly. Next thing I know the machine shop will insist that my bores are no good (which to be fair, yeah they really aren't) due to the wear and try to sell me on sleeves, which now means I need new pistons, rings, rods, bearings, etc. This isn't even mentioning things like compression ratio changes, and surface material loss which all affects the nuances of the engine.

I see no reason why the 2ZZ would absolutely require decking in all cases, if my measurements say I need it, then I'll get it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #140 ·
It will guarantee a straight fiat and true surface. That’s something you can’t guarantee it already is nor if you use a gasket scraper, whizzer wheel or razor blade.

Machine shop will deck the block and or head in a surface grinder, clean flat surface to start with.
I'm using a precision straight-edge and feeler gauges in order to determine surface flatness (this is what the factory service manual specifies). I have only used carb cleaner and a nylon brush to clean material off so far, and the point I've hit is that solvent and scrubbing is no longer strong enough to remove the really baked on crud. I'm trying to get that stuff off safely, because I've done a great job of not damaging the aluminum so far. The problem is that there's not much more abrasive I can get without risking the surface finish.
 
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