NewCelica.org Forum banner
141 - 153 of 153 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
258 Posts
Discussion Starter · #142 ·
Just by torqueing the head can warp it. If been on there for how many years? I assume it over heated and u spun a rod. Spend the 200$ and get it decked.

2000 GTS Turbo
Good point, fair enough. It's been 160k miles since 2003, but it's only ever overheated on me once, not when it died though. I'll look into machine shops around the area and see what's up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
258 Posts
Discussion Starter · #143 ·
All right, so exciting update today! The cleaning is about 90% done, and blueprinting has begun. Both the block and head are perfectly flat and within spec, and need only a final cleaning to be ready for assembly. I have a .0005" layer of a sort of varnish that's baked on some spots, but it's really slowly coming off with carb cleaner and a razor blade. I've been careful to not gouge, scratch, or mar the gasket surface and so far it seems I can just assemble as is without decking anything.

My goal is to get this done next week, or the week after. All I have left cleaning-wise is to do the ports again, and finish up all mating surfaces. Then it's time to check my bearing and piston ring clearances, and if everything's in the green, we're ready to roll! :cool:

By the way, how do I clean the port I marked in red on the last pic?

Automotive tire White Light Wood Audio equipment
Automotive tire Automotive engine gasket Automotive wheel system Engineering Rim
Automotive tire Gas Engineering Automotive wheel system Machine
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
258 Posts
Discussion Starter · #144 ·
My week got busy and I had to resupply on some stuff for the build so I didn't get much done this week. Just cleaned the head gasket surfaces more and I'm actually impressed with how far I got them now.

Automotive engine gasket Gas Automotive wheel system Auto part Engineering
White Automotive engine gasket Gas Auto part Engineering
Wood Gas Font Typesetting Building material


You can clearly see the factory machining lines, and in person they have a very nice mirror shine to them. I measured flatness on them for a third time and have again confirmed they are absolutely perfectly flat down to .0015in. They feel perfectly smooth and consistent, there is barely any pitting, and I deburred the edges. I wasn't able to find any reputable machine shops in my area (go figure), but my primary concern would be the Surface RA if I were getting it decked.

I'm not going to lie, the information on MLS head gaskets seems to vary from blatant machine shop advertising to "just attack it with abrasives". I was unable to find any information regarding a non-machine rebuild outside of some LS builders who had a very spirited discussion about the matter. Their consensus seemed to be the things that mattered most are flatness and smoothness, both of which I believe I've nailed here.

I'm officially priced out on this rebuild, and even if I had the money my resources and options are still limited, so I'm going to take the risk (among all the others so far with this build) and send it as is.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
258 Posts
Discussion Starter · #146 ·

·
Registered
Joined
·
427 Posts
All in that area. The corrosion and narrow lands is a common place to fail. The corrosion is part of the reason to deck surfaces. But you’re almost ready to assemble now.. just for reference.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
258 Posts
Discussion Starter · #148 ·
All in that area. The corrosion and narrow lands is a common place to fail. The corrosion is part of the reason to deck surfaces. But you’re almost ready to assemble now.. just for reference.
I'll take a closer look at that spot, to the eye it appears as staining.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
258 Posts
Discussion Starter · #149 ·
I'll take a closer look at that spot, to the eye it appears as staining.
Gave the surfaces another look over, any corrosion seems to minimal and that surface is nice, smooth, and shiny. I will keep it in mind either way, and I'm getting ready to start the initial assembly. I was looking at the rod markings I have:

Rod 1:
F9 533 25 533
2RC
06M

Rod 2:
H2 598 25 598
1MC
06M

Rod 3:
F9 542 25 542
1MD
06U

Rod 4 (destroyed):
H2 601 25 601
1MD
06U

Rod 5 (replacement):
J8 928 27 928
2MC
03U

From the reading I've done, my rod sizes are supposed to be what's marked on the side of the end caps and on the bearings. So in my case, it's 2RC, 1MC, 1MD, 1MD(d), and 2MC(r), so my bearings should be sizes 2, 1, 1, 2. Well, I only bought a set of "standard" bearings, which are apparently Size 2, so I guess I'll have to determine my clearances first and see how much I'm off.

Does anybody have any more information on the sizing for these? Search feature turned up nothing of use...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
427 Posts
They only refer to the original build off the shelf. After that run wot ya brung..

You’re replacing a rod so you don’t have a set.
If I had stripped another motor to get my new parts ( as I have) I would use the 4 set in my ‘new’ build. Not just random ones.

highly recommend you take your 4 rods to the engine shop, ask them to align the rods and confirm the journal size, they may suggest line boring the big ends which almost guarantees them to be correct.


that said I used to work with a bloke who would walk around a wrecking shop, look down and say.. “oh that’s a good 1275 mini valve,” pick it up and into his pocket..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
258 Posts
Discussion Starter · #151 ·
They only refer to the original build off the shelf. After that run wot ya brung..

You’re replacing a rod so you don’t have a set.
If I had stripped another motor to get my new parts ( as I have) I would use the 4 set in my ‘new’ build. Not just random ones.

highly recommend you take your 4 rods to the engine shop, ask them to align the rods and confirm the journal size, they may suggest line boring the big ends which almost guarantees them to be correct.


that said I used to work with a bloke who would walk around a wrecking shop, look down and say.. “oh that’s a good 1275 mini valve,” pick it up and into his pocket..
The first 3 are the originals which hadn't taken any damage during the failure, last one was ordered off MWR. I have calipers that I can verify the bores of rod journals, and I already have the verified the new crank is perfectly uniform across them as well.

What do you mean by aligning the rods though?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
427 Posts
Another engine building thing., so it’s a 2nd hand rod from mwr?

Aligning rods ensure they are straight and the journals are true and in line. Life on engine internals is harsh, they can easily develop a twist.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
258 Posts
Discussion Starter · #153 ·
Another engine building thing., so it’s a 2nd hand rod from mwr?

Aligning rods ensure they are straight and the journals are true and in line. Life on engine internals is harsh, they can easily develop a twist.
Oh ok, I hear you, I was reading about rod twist in the repair manual but wasn't sure how much it comes into play.

and yeah, the replacement rod was a second-hand from MWR. It likely has less wear than the three surviving rods. All of this is for a basic stock build.
 
141 - 153 of 153 Posts
Top