[actionseeker]

I think you might have misunderstood what my question was. The plastiguage is being used so I don't put down another thousand on tools I will only ever use once or twice in my entire lifetime. If I had access to highly precise micrometers and bore gauges, I wouldn't need plastiguage. But it still works, I have it already, Toyota says to use it, and the only thing it can't fully do is test for roundness. I've gone ahead and ended up replacing everything in the rotating assembly, so everything except the rods are new, and all 4 came from MWR and have been verified round and straight.

I simply need to know if I need to torque the main bolts to spec without turning the extra 90° to test my clearances since the manual doesn't elaborate it very well. I know the bolts are Torque-to-Yield, and I don't want to ruin them because I stretched them while measuring clearances. I'm not out of my skill zone, I simply do not have shop level tools because I don't work in a shop and can't justify spending the money on them, and the Toyota instructions are half-baked.

There was NO way for me to determine the correctness of any of the parts involved until I had them all together. I purchased everything in standerd size because I have to start somewhere, so that includes all the bearings and the crank itself. I can also just reduce surface material along the races instead of shaving the bearings if I need to, which is much simpler. I know each main journal is cut differently too and I had asked about that earlier.

 

[actionseeker]

All right, I got past that previous hurdle and into another one. I made the mistake of using the torque spec for the older style of knock sensor which was 29 ft-lbs and broke the stud well before that. Now I gotta get this sucker out, and figure out what the torque spec is for my style of sensor (early 03 model which has some new features, and some older). Anybody know the spec?

Aside from that, the rest of the build is going all right and a new oil pump is on the way to complete it. This has quite frankly been a hell of learning experience and to be honest, I'm not at all confident in the success of any of this, but I have nothing more to lose and this needs to be done in any case.

 

[2way]

15 ft/lbs

 

[actionseeker]

15 ft/lbs

Thanks for the spec 2way! 15 ft-lbs sounds wayyyy more like it, and I just knew I was doing something wrong based on the feel alone. By chance, is there a torque spec for the stud itself?

 

[actionseeker]

Got the little sucker out after 4 hours of tedious drilling. It wasn't the prettiest extraction, but the threads are all in perfect condition at least. Lesson learned, ALWAYS double check the part you're working on isn't superseded. I actually have never had to touch this sensor so it caught me slipping. @2way, do you have a link for a copy of a 03+ service manual? I'm assuming that the stud is torqued to 29ft-lbs, while the sensor is 15ft-lbs? Please correct me if I'm wrong, I DON'T ever want to do this again.

 

[2way]

PM me & I'll figure out how to get the '03 manual parts I have to you. In the meantime, I'll see if I can find the stud spec.

 

[Sheik Ya Bootie]

The sensor I feel is relative to your ecu. Early ecu one wire, late ecu 2 wire.

Not sure you can mix and match

 

[actionseeker]

The sensor I feel is relative to your ecu. Early ecu one wire, late ecu 2 wire.

Not sure you can mix and match

No worries, I'm not changing the sensor. I learned about the two different styles after I broke the stud and found out that my sensor was a supersession. I'm assuming that since the stud uses the exact same threads as the old sensor that the torque spec would be the same between them.

PM me & I'll figure out how to get the '03 manual parts I have to you. In the meantime, I'll see if I can find the stud spec.

Much appreciated! 👍 I think I narrowed it down to somewhere between 29ft-lbs (old sensor torque spec) and 35ft-lb (torque spec for 12mm diameter bolts), but I'd like a second opinion.

 

[actionseeker]

I got the new stud and knock sensor on. I opted to be on the safe side and tightened both the stud and nut to 15ft-lbs. It felt plenty secured, and I can now move on to finishing this up. Tomorrow I plan on getting the rest of it together, and I'll start figuring out when to drop it in.

 

[2way]

Sorry. I've been busy. Sent you the link.

 

[actionseeker]

Sorry. I've been busy. Sent you the link.

You're all good, everything still worked out.

 

[actionseeker]

Home stretch, just needs the last few steps before it's ready to drop. This has unnecessarily been an absolute pain, but it's been somewhat worth it all. Even if it doesn't work, I'm glad to have finally gone through the entire process and I can't understate the amount I've learned from all this. Most importantly, what NOT to do during this, and what it takes skill, tool, and resource wise to get it done smoothly from start to finish. This... was not so smooth, but we're fucking here now, so here goes nothing.

 

[Sheik Ya Bootie]

Fingers crossed!

Though heads, big ends, mains and cams are about all I use the torque wrench for. Things like knock sensor I’d use a 3/8 dr socket, hold the head not the handle and tighten as much as I could.. just with my wrist. Never use a 1/2 dr unless on the torque wrench.