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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
TEIN Rear Strut Question

Edit: Do you guys want a writeup on this shizzle I installed? pm me!

Hey guys it's been a long day of finishing TRD header install and installing TEIN SS. Btw I have searched this had some results but nothing described with any detail.

I had no problems with the front struts at all. I used the tein wrech to hold the strut seat and torqued the top nut to 25lbs (I hope this is the right amount)

Problem: I can't seem to get the top bolt on the rear shocks torqued down enough. I couldn't find anything to hold on to.. and I didn't want the shaft to move.

So I'm just curious how you guys got yours torqued down. I didn't remove the top part of the rear assembly.

Had some problems with the rear but it was a learning experience.

1. Use a 6mm allen wrench for the top of the rear shocks to get the bolt off. (found this using the wonderful forum search)

2. Be careful if you remove the front struts without compressing the spring (I had TRD springs on them) They might shoot off a little bit and take a chunk out of your finger.
 

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i would have gone with jic magices, but what is the torque spec for the rear coilovers anyways??? how bout the front as well??? the teins make to much nosie, you will start to notice it, the rear squicks alot, sorry i cant spell im a little drunk right now :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm suprised you can hear anything with the kazuma lol...

It does say you have to periodically check the torque on things... but I'm really not sure what the torque was for the back without going outside and looking.

I can't get that top night tight at all... but I'm going to try to figure out a way. I've got to get my dp bolted to the TRD header and put the battery back in.. hopefully I'll get to take it for a test drive finally.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
bump.. still haven't found a good solution to this problem.

I've looked at the instructions over and over.. There is nothing to hold onto to keep the shaft from moving on the rear struts., and being already installed it's hard to get to the bolt.

I'm kind of afraid to let a shop work on this because I've invested a large chunk on getting it.. and don't want any problems.
 

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i think u need to take the top part out to to get to that nut better .. thats what i did and had no problem its only like 3 bolts to take the top mount out and the teins are shorter than the stock shocks .. so it wont be a pian to get them in .. nowi dont remember exacty what i did cuz it was soo long ago .. but i dont remember it bein hard
 

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Hungster said:
i would have gone with jic magices, but what is the torque spec for the rear coilovers anyways??? how bout the front as well??? the teins make to much nosie, you will start to notice it, the rear squicks alot, sorry i cant spell im a little drunk right now :D
what do u mean he shocks make a lill noise .. i never really had a problem with mine .. well one of the front right one swooshes .(whateber u call that) but never had a problem with the rear squeeking
 

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Re: TEIN Rear Strut Question

Andy00GTS said:
Edit: Do you guys want a writeup on this shizzle I installed? pm me!

Hey guys it's been a long day of finishing TRD header install and installing TEIN SS. Btw I have searched this had some results but nothing described with any detail.

I had no problems with the front struts at all. I used the tein wrech to hold the strut seat and torqued the top nut to 25lbs (I hope this is the right amount)

Problem: I can't seem to get the top bolt on the rear shocks torqued down enough. I couldn't find anything to hold on to.. and I didn't want the shaft to move.

So I'm just curious how you guys got yours torqued down. I didn't remove the top part of the rear assembly.

Had some problems with the rear but it was a learning experience.

1. Use a 6mm allen wrench for the top of the rear shocks to get the bolt off. (found this using the wonderful forum search)

2. There is no need to remove the top part of the rear shock housing (3 17mm bolts from inside the trunk)

3. Be careful if you remove the front struts without compressing the spring (I had TRD springs on them) They might shoot off a little bit and take a chunk out of your finger.

I don't agree with #2 "2. There is no need to remove the top part of the rear shock housing (3 17mm bolts from inside the trunk)"

You should take that out and install the shock and spring externally. If you remove all the lines/connections around the bottom of the shock and push down the lower a-arm you can pull (or push if your re-assembling) the shock with the shock top out.

If you look at the of the tein shock in the threads they are shaved at the top so that you can put a wrench on the top once the nut is started (I think it's 12mm). Use this flat part to hold the shaft solid while you thighten the nut.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks man.. I wish I would have figured that out sooner. I dropped car off today to have someone else do it.. I just dont have time to pull the rear shocks out to get it fixed up right.. work sucks.

Thanks again for the help!
 

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Congrats on getting your TEIN's man. Since you guys are in the subject. could you tell me if there are any coil-overs that raise the car above oem hight. thanks BTW its too bad TEIN does not have the EDFC for our car
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I think it would raise the pu$$y factor of your car.. meaning you could get more of it :) Also it looks cool.. I'm not that lazy yet though. Turning the knobs is very simple...

Also if you got tired of removing the rear interior pieces this could come in handy.. but considering my trunk is gutted I'll pass.

Oh yeah and I got the problem fixed on the rear.. Car rides very very nice now :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ouch.. what size wheels you running? I'm on 17's riding pretty low.. might actually raise the car about a 1/4 of an inch.

I probably won't ever get a body kit or anything (not really into that stuff) so no worries on scraping anything other than the exhaust.
 

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I ride on 18" Konig Tantrums and I still scape I had TRD springs but put the stock ones back on to raise it up when I got the kit!I still need at least another inch and a half. I really want to avoid air bags but there may not be anything else. Thats why I wanted to see if there were cool-overs to raise my car above oem.
 

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Where do you live???

Rim size doesn really matter but raising your car, I think, would look ridiculous. I mean you have a car, on 18s, with a body kit, and its rasied??? Save up the money for airbags.
 

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Thats why I would want something like a coil-over system that would raise or lower my car. I would prefer not to get air babgs. But I agree with everyone that raising my car higher would look less apealing but there comes a time when you just get tired of worring about bumps and dips. BTW my body kit is molded and could crack at the seams if I hit too hard. just looking for solutions not opinions thanx and I live in OC california near irvine
 
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