PACKAGE
After a about a two week wait, it was happy-day
.
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
The coilovers (SS-P) come complete with front upper mounts (including camber adjustment),
and adjustable front end-links. Right out of the box, the first impression is of extremely
high quality workmanship.
![Image]()
![Image]()
The EDFC controller is surprisingly small, but comes with a boat-load of cabling, and the
four motors that go on top of the four struts.
![Image]()
COILOVER INSTALL
The Tein manual isn't horrible, but not that great either. There are no Celica specific instructions,
just some basic guidelines that apply to all applications of this coilover model. One thing that is
very important is to PREP THE COILOVERS BEFORE INSTALL, because once they are in some of the adjustments
are impossible to do, and others are still a major PITA.
1.) Set the coilovers to the recommended height
2.) Set the front camber plates to -1 camber (OEM spec for Celica)
3.) VERY IMPORTANT: tighten the large nut on top of each coilover with a torque wrench to the spec in the manual.
You will need a deep socket & torque wrench for this. Counter hold the front struts with the included tool
by holding the TOP spring seat plate. The rear can be held by the flattened rod itself, but be careful not
to slip and strip the threads.
If you forget step three and install the coilovers, you will get some nasty knocking sounds, and there is no way
I know of to tighten the rods with the coilovers on the car. Even if they seem tight, use a torque wrench to make
sure. The needed torque us speced in the Tein manual.
If you do not have the EDFC, you are ready to install now. With the EDFC, you should install the motors for the
rear coilovers first, since it is next to impossible to do this with the coilovers installed in the car. Once
again the manual is ok, but some times so full of scary WARNING and CAUTION notices, that I felt I better not
touch anything at all... but in the end it is pretty straight forward.
Remove the plastic cap and the "clicker" from the rear strut using the provided tool. (BTW the tool doesn't work
for the front struts, more on this later). Use the included allan wrench to unscrew a small black screw hidden
inside the center rod. Make sure to keep the coilover upright as you do this (holding it between your knees
works best). Now lube the longer golden screw that come with the set (looks the same as the black one just longer)
with the RED grease. The kit incudes both a thread LOCKER and thread GREASE, but doesn't label them to tell you
which is which. I tried it on a couple of spare bolts first to make sure - RED=GREASE and GREEN=LOCK. After the
screw is greased, screw it into the rod so that it is flush with the top opening.
Now, take a motor (remove the rubber
cap from it), and insert the motor shaft into the golden screw. Then rotate both the motor and the shaft as a unit
and screw the motor on the outside thread. Once the motor is threaded on, apply some thread lock (GREEN) to the
outside threads and keep turning the motor until tight. Use a flat head screw driver to make sure the shaft can
still turn easily, then set it aside to dry.
While the rear coilovers set to harden the thread-locker, install the fronts. Removing the old ones is pretty quick,
just disconnect the brake line and fuel sensor clamps attached to the strut, the sway bar endlink, and the two large
bolts on the bottom of the strut. If anything is rusted stuck, WD-40 and a breaker bar are your friends. Make sure
to support the hub-assembly with a jackstand or jack, since the drive shaft can get damaged if it drops too far.
![Image]()
With the hub disconnected, unscrew the top strut bolts, and the whole assembly drops out of the wheel well.
![Image]()
Here are some comparisons between the old and the new.
![Image]()
![Image]()
They new one goes in in reverse, since the Tein are a lot shorter than the stock ones (when hanging),
it helps to push up the hub assembly with a jack.
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
The rear ones are a little more involved, but not too hard either. First, remove all the plastics, starting
with the rear center piece, all the way around the sides, to get access to the strut top screws.
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
To disconnect the rear strut, it is easiest to unbolt the endlinks, the camber link, and the three bolts in front
of the wheel well under the car that hold up the lower control arm. Then unbolt the single large bolt that holds the
strut on the lower control arm.
![Image]()
![Image]()
Old vs. new (without the motors on the strut yet):
![Image]()
![Image]()
And installed on the car
![Image]()
EDFC INSTALL
Installing the EDFC isn't hard (if you already installed the motor in the rear), but
there are some pitfalls. First, when you try to remove the "clicker" from the front
struts, you will discover that the included tool cannot access the screw, because it
sits to deep in the upper mount. The mount is extra deep to deal with the Celica's
low hood clearance, but the tool is generic, and cannot reach when the coilover is
assembled. I tried to find an offset, 8mm, open wrench but had no luck with that, so
I went the DIY route. When I tried to bent the included tool, I realized the steel
was very hard and brittle, and even though I heated it, the tool broke in two.
![Image]()
However, with the tool front piece in a vice grip, I was able to remove the clickers
without any difficulty. I'd suggest simply sawing the tool in half, and it should work
fine (using pliers if needed to turn it).
![Image]()
![Image]()
Routing wires is always fun (not!), I used my front strut bar and the included zip ties, then
went through the firewall grommet behind the battery and into the center console to the
EDFC controller. The controller fits nicely inside the ash tray space, but is too small
for the included bracket to hold it in place. Time to make a custom bracket. I used some
small aluminum angle and bolts from Home Depot. Then I epoxied the custom bracket to
the panel where I dremeled the ash tray away.
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
I used the electrical connector for the cig-lighter to get ACC power (RED), light
power (GREEN), and ground (black/white), and tapped the stop light fuse for always
on power.
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
The first time you connect the power, the EDFC will just beep without a display. Hold down
the power button for 2 sec or more, and it will light up the display and go through calibration.
I covered the excess space around the controller with some cut up rubber sheet I had lying around.
Eventually I will fiberglass it to fit, but not until the rest of the center console has all the
gizmos (guages, head unit etc.) in place.
Now try not to hit anything as you drive while playing with your new toy.
After a about a two week wait, it was happy-day
.
The coilovers (SS-P) come complete with front upper mounts (including camber adjustment),
and adjustable front end-links. Right out of the box, the first impression is of extremely
high quality workmanship.
The EDFC controller is surprisingly small, but comes with a boat-load of cabling, and the
four motors that go on top of the four struts.
COILOVER INSTALL
The Tein manual isn't horrible, but not that great either. There are no Celica specific instructions,
just some basic guidelines that apply to all applications of this coilover model. One thing that is
very important is to PREP THE COILOVERS BEFORE INSTALL, because once they are in some of the adjustments
are impossible to do, and others are still a major PITA.
1.) Set the coilovers to the recommended height
2.) Set the front camber plates to -1 camber (OEM spec for Celica)
3.) VERY IMPORTANT: tighten the large nut on top of each coilover with a torque wrench to the spec in the manual.
You will need a deep socket & torque wrench for this. Counter hold the front struts with the included tool
by holding the TOP spring seat plate. The rear can be held by the flattened rod itself, but be careful not
to slip and strip the threads.
If you forget step three and install the coilovers, you will get some nasty knocking sounds, and there is no way
I know of to tighten the rods with the coilovers on the car. Even if they seem tight, use a torque wrench to make
sure. The needed torque us speced in the Tein manual.
If you do not have the EDFC, you are ready to install now. With the EDFC, you should install the motors for the
rear coilovers first, since it is next to impossible to do this with the coilovers installed in the car. Once
again the manual is ok, but some times so full of scary WARNING and CAUTION notices, that I felt I better not
touch anything at all... but in the end it is pretty straight forward.
Remove the plastic cap and the "clicker" from the rear strut using the provided tool. (BTW the tool doesn't work
for the front struts, more on this later). Use the included allan wrench to unscrew a small black screw hidden
inside the center rod. Make sure to keep the coilover upright as you do this (holding it between your knees
works best). Now lube the longer golden screw that come with the set (looks the same as the black one just longer)
with the RED grease. The kit incudes both a thread LOCKER and thread GREASE, but doesn't label them to tell you
which is which. I tried it on a couple of spare bolts first to make sure - RED=GREASE and GREEN=LOCK. After the
screw is greased, screw it into the rod so that it is flush with the top opening.
Now, take a motor (remove the rubber
cap from it), and insert the motor shaft into the golden screw. Then rotate both the motor and the shaft as a unit
and screw the motor on the outside thread. Once the motor is threaded on, apply some thread lock (GREEN) to the
outside threads and keep turning the motor until tight. Use a flat head screw driver to make sure the shaft can
still turn easily, then set it aside to dry.
While the rear coilovers set to harden the thread-locker, install the fronts. Removing the old ones is pretty quick,
just disconnect the brake line and fuel sensor clamps attached to the strut, the sway bar endlink, and the two large
bolts on the bottom of the strut. If anything is rusted stuck, WD-40 and a breaker bar are your friends
. Make sureto support the hub-assembly with a jackstand or jack, since the drive shaft can get damaged if it drops too far.
With the hub disconnected, unscrew the top strut bolts, and the whole assembly drops out of the wheel well.
Here are some comparisons between the old and the new.
They new one goes in in reverse, since the Tein are a lot shorter than the stock ones (when hanging),
it helps to push up the hub assembly with a jack.
The rear ones are a little more involved, but not too hard either. First, remove all the plastics, starting
with the rear center piece, all the way around the sides, to get access to the strut top screws.
To disconnect the rear strut, it is easiest to unbolt the endlinks, the camber link, and the three bolts in front
of the wheel well under the car that hold up the lower control arm. Then unbolt the single large bolt that holds the
strut on the lower control arm.
Old vs. new (without the motors on the strut yet):
And installed on the car
EDFC INSTALL
Installing the EDFC isn't hard (if you already installed the motor in the rear), but
there are some pitfalls. First, when you try to remove the "clicker" from the front
struts, you will discover that the included tool cannot access the screw, because it
sits to deep in the upper mount. The mount is extra deep to deal with the Celica's
low hood clearance, but the tool is generic, and cannot reach when the coilover is
assembled. I tried to find an offset, 8mm, open wrench but had no luck with that, so
I went the DIY route. When I tried to bent the included tool, I realized the steel
was very hard and brittle, and even though I heated it, the tool broke in two.
However, with the tool front piece in a vice grip, I was able to remove the clickers
without any difficulty. I'd suggest simply sawing the tool in half, and it should work
fine (using pliers if needed to turn it).
Routing wires is always fun (not!), I used my front strut bar and the included zip ties, then
went through the firewall grommet behind the battery and into the center console to the
EDFC controller. The controller fits nicely inside the ash tray space, but is too small
for the included bracket to hold it in place. Time to make a custom bracket. I used some
small aluminum angle and bolts from Home Depot. Then I epoxied the custom bracket to
the panel where I dremeled the ash tray away.
I used the electrical connector for the cig-lighter to get ACC power (RED), light
power (GREEN), and ground (black/white), and tapped the stop light fuse for always
on power.
The first time you connect the power, the EDFC will just beep without a display. Hold down
the power button for 2 sec or more, and it will light up the display and go through calibration.
I covered the excess space around the controller with some cut up rubber sheet I had lying around.
Eventually I will fiberglass it to fit, but not until the rest of the center console has all the
gizmos (guages, head unit etc.) in place.
Now try not to hit anything as you drive while playing with your new toy
.
