NewCelica.org Forum banner

1 - 20 of 226 Posts

·
Professional Carsmith
Joined
·
6,311 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well I've been "convinced" to go ahead and start a build thread as it seems to be pretty good motivation for getting off my a** and getting things done :gap:. Anyway, I'm building the car up to compete in TTS and where I left off in HPDE. I'll try and update this as much as possible, but I take lousy pictures (unless it's of my thumb) and my descriptions are typically lackluster (ask me about my thumb), so I'll be leaving most of the photography to a friend.



So here we are a couple weeks into the build. At this point the chassis had been stripped, seam welded, and put back on the ground to start getting the suspension geometry and ducting roughed out.



This is the engine bay thus far and is pretty close to the final product. Here you can see some of the seam welding that went on as well as part of the support structure for the V-mount setup. The wheel wells have been cut out and "tubs" fitted in so we can run a larger tire. The K-member has also been reinforced and gusseted. The biga** hole in the passenger side firewall is actually the exit for the exhaust and is having a tunnel fabricated around it (more on that later). You can also see a set of Boosted's spherical-jointed LCA's and his solid rack bushings. The LCA's are really nice in that you can dial in camber and caster adjustments while at the same time getting rid of the slop of the OEM rubber or the binding/pinching you can get with poly bushings. The rack bushings replace the OEMgooeyrubbermadness and should provide a much better steering feel when combined with the upgraded tie rods and electric power steering. These will be joined by more spherical bearings throughout the suspension.





Here you can see some more of the stitch welding here as well as the undercoating that was applied to the entire underbody. Instead of using the rubbery-stock stuff (big mess, loves to catch on fire) I used a product called Lizard Skin that we've had success with in the past. It's heavier than a paint or epoxy but is fire retardant, easy to clean, and is pretty durable. The rear suspension is pretty stockish right now, but I have spherical inserts in the works as well as some nice Hotchkis bits waiting to go on.





Brakes consist of short track NASCAR Brembo 12.5x1.25" full floating rotors in the front with custom hats and monoblock 4-piston calipers. Rears are using 12x.75" rotors with Nissan Z32 2 piston calipers and a Wilwood emergency brake setup (the stock drum E-brake is gone). Tilton MC's are being used as well as (potentially) a Tilton balance bar setup.




So here's my block after I "persuaded" the stock oil gallery plugs to get the hell out of the way. In case you're wondering, the big secret here is to weld something to the ball bearings that block the galleries and yank them out. If you're this guy:


go for it.


I tried for about an hour before I realized I couldn't summon the power of Greyskull with my vice-grips SOOOOOOOOOO I took a piece off all thread, welded it to the ball, and used a spacer and nut to back the ball bearing out and PRESTO. Now I can thread the gallery plugs for a normal -AN pipe plug, clean out the galleries, and have something serviceable. I also have to block off the ports to and from the oil pump to install my dry sump pump.



The rest of this engine consists of Darton sleeves, custom JE pistons, "secret" rods, knife-edged, balanced, and chamfered crank, ARP fasteners throughout, and ACL and MWR bearings. The oil galleries have been reamed and the entire block deburred. Right now I'm waiting on the bearings to get back from WPC treatment before final assembly.

So that's basically it for now. I'm tired and I'm waiting on parts to get here (tubing for the cage, mounts for the calipers, WPC treatment on the bearings, fuel rail and a suspension setup from BC Racing who have been kind enough to set me up with a set of their coilovers). I'll update this thing as work on the money pit continues...
 

·
Spanning Tree Storm
Joined
·
1,258 Posts
Wow!!!! Wow!!!
 

·
Turbo 2zz
Joined
·
4,674 Posts
been waiting on this for a year now! Progress looks good. few questions?

Purpose of rewelding seams?
just to strengthen everything right? were the welds placed in those spots on purpose?

Why are you running the exhaust through the car? is it just easier with the turbo your gonna run?

What's the alternative to the OE drum rear e-brake. I fell like it doesnt grab as hard as it could. Is it possible to run on the caliper with the OE set-up?

And message me a price for those custom hats so I can start saving.
 

·
Professional Carsmith
Joined
·
6,311 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
been waiting on this for a year now! Progress looks good. few questions?

Purpose of rewelding seams?
just to strengthen everything right? were the welds placed in those spots on purpose?

Why are you running the exhaust through the car? is it just easier with the turbo your gonna run?

What's the alternative to the OE drum rear e-brake. I fell like it doesnt grab as hard as it could. Is it possible to run on the caliper with the OE set-up?

And message me a price for those custom hats so I can start saving.
Just to strengthen the body before the cage goes in (which is probably moot with the cage anyway but oh well), the body wasn't even spot-welded together in some places just lots of glue and seam sealer.

The exhaust is going through the car because the power steering pump and oil lines for the dry sump system are going through what used to be the exhaust tunnel. I may also re-use my accusump and put it there as well if I decide to use it for pre-oiling instead of a hex drive. And yes it's also waaaay easier to run the exhaust through here with my current manifold and turbo (Neukin Tubular/ Borg Warner EFR). I also wanted to keep the exhaust as short as possible.

There is no "alternative" for the rear drum. I just ditched it because it's heavy and I didn't want to try and monkey around with some kind of deep-hat to accommodate the parking brake. In its place I'm using a Wilwood mechanical "spot" caliper. I'm not real sure on your second question, if it's "can I ONLY run the stock rear caliper?" then yes. Theoretically you could gut the drum brake mechanism and run a line lock on the rear caliper but I wouldn't recommend it.
 

·
Professional Carsmith
Joined
·
6,311 Posts
Discussion Starter #12


Another shot of the bay. Started mocking up the fenders and making their new mounts with dzus fasteners. Also ditched the airbox I was making on the passenger side and went with a two-piece carbon fiber design.



My spare wheel-well had been bugging me for a while. Ever since I got the car I had been battling a rust problem. It seemed like every time I fixed it, I would drive around for a couple of weeks and then BAM! Car herpes. :bang:

So I cut it out and made an aluminum plate to go over the resulting biga** hole. It'll be sealed and riveted down before final assembly. Coincidentally it also gives decent access to the rear suspension. I also went ahead and reinforced the rear section and added in a pickup point for jacking/towing. That black goo you see is 3m seam sealer.



I also started welding up the main front duct you see in the first couple of pictures. It attaches to the two front "prongs" sticking out from the radiator support and feeds both the intercooler and radiator separate. I can also remove the entire assembly with two nuts and two quick release pins, so when I run this damn thing into the gravel I should be able to switch out radiators/intercoolers/etc pretty easily. Also makes getting the engine in/out a helluvalot easier.



Now I get to paint it (lame) and wait for parts to get here (lamer).
 
1 - 20 of 226 Posts
Top