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Discussion Starter #2
Before beginning make sure you have the following:

(Clay Bar and Lube) A Clay Bar System [see guide below]
(Towel) 100% Cotton Hand Size Towel or a MicroFiber Towel (90,000 threads per square inch)
(Wrapper) Cellophane Cigarette Wrapper

In a well-lit, cool and dry area:

Step 1: Check for Surface Contaminants.
Technique: With two fingers inside the Wrapper gently glide it across the Surface. This will magnify any amount of Surface Contamination.
Tech Tip: Do not press down hard as you may free up some of the Surface Contaminants and scratch the Surface.

Step 2: Break off a 2 oz. portion of the Clay Bar.
Technique: Break off a 2oz piece of the Clay and roll it into a ball (store the remainder of the Clay in the container).
Tech Tip: If the Clay Bar is ever dropped onto the floor discard IMMEDIATELY.

Step 3: Saturate the Surface with the Lube.
Technique: Mist the Lube onto the Surface.

Step 4: Rub the Clay Bar onto the Surface.
Technique: Firmly press the ball of the Clay Bar onto the Surface to mold it to the contour of the Surface. Rub the Clay Bar on the Surface in a side-to-side motion with the Contour of the Panel.
Tech Tip: If the Surface begins to show any signs of drying wet again with the Lube.

Step 5: Wipe the Surface with the Towel.
Technique: Do not press hard onto the Surface with the Towel as you may induce some light surface scratches.
Tech Tip As you move from panel to panel 'fold' the clay to a new section.

Step 6: Inspect the Surface.
Technique: With the Wrapper inspect the Surface as in Step 1
Tech Tip: If the Surface still has some roughness to it repeat Steps 2 through 5.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The Blue Clay Bar:
I recently tested 3M's and ClayMagic's clay bar and have the same one that is imported from Japan (even has the same exact patent numbers on them, LOL). However, there is a tremdous price variation between the two with 3M's being around $5.00 less. I have found the 3M one for around $18. My Rating: Very Good.

The Yellow Clay Bar:
I recently tested Mother's, Zaino's and Zymol's clay bar and they appear to have the same exact one (although there is no patent number, LOL). Mother's clay bar is available for is available for around $18 as well but I was given my Zaino clay bar so I am not sure of the price. Zymol's clay bar is $80.80!! My Rating: Very Good

The White Clay Bar:
I tested Meguiar's clay bar a years ago and was not at all impressed. Meguiar's clay bar retails for $10. My Rating: Good

The Grey Clay Bar:
I recently tested Lusso's clay bar and the quality appears to be right in line with the 3M, ClayMagic, Mother's and Zaino. Lusso's clay bar retails for $14. My Rating: Very Good

The Red Clay Bar:
I have not recently tested AutoMagic's red clay bar. It contains a mild abrasive. I would recommend that this bar only be used in a professional bodyshop atmosphere. I will not give this product a rating.
 

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I depends on the size of the bar. I usually split the Mothers bar into 2 and store 1 half for another application. Then I split this piece into 2 and use one for horizontal surfaces and the other for vertical.

Always discard it if it has fallen on the ground (unless you can cut the contaminated part away w/ a knife). I never store a used piece for later.
 

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The "lube" comes with the clay ? Or is there something else I can use that may work even better ?
 

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With the Meguiar's or Mothers kits the lube comes with it. Any quick detailer product can be used though. Some people use a very dilute solution of car wash soap in water through a spray bottle.
 

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If you use car soap ... don't you have to wash it off again after?

Can you use it with a wax and hit 2 jobs at once?

Where are these available at? I've tried autozone and kragen

thanks
 

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My friend, whom I don't think is right, says that clay bars take off a layer of clear coat, thus producing a smooth finish. Is this true?!
 

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Originally posted by *GTSpeed*
My friend, whom I don't think is right, says that clay bars take off a layer of clear coat, thus producing a smooth finish. Is this true?!
No. It removes contaminants that are embedded within the clear coat. It does not remove the clear coat itself. (sure, after hundreds of applications it probably does, but any thing would)
 

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A time saving trick I have used is to start claying right after the final rinse on the vehicle. After claying, wipe the area with a microfiber towel. The remaining water provides enough lubrication and still gets the same results as if you used the lube.
 

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I work at autozone and we carry almost everyone of them that he meantioned except the one from Japan.
 

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Piece of Work said:
A time saving trick I have used is to start claying right after the final rinse on the vehicle. After claying, wipe the area with a microfiber towel. The remaining water provides enough lubrication and still gets the same results as if you used the lube.
I just used the Mother's Gold Clay Bar and it says specifically, "DO NOT USE WATER [instead of the lubricant they provide]."

I don't know the reason for this, but it's probably wise to follow the directions. What I did was rinse off the car, after washing, and then I just sprayed on the "quick detailer" that comes with the clay bar to saturate the area in which I was working. In other words, I didn't bother drying off the entire car, but I also used the lube instead of straight water.

Afterwards, it left a dull residue from the clay on my car, so I rewashed the entire thing, and then dried it off. I finished with the Mother's Carnuba Wax (also included with the Clay Bar), and I must say it looks pretty damn shiny :)
 

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To go along with paint cleaners. Has anyone used the cleaner from Meguiar's which is step #1 of a 3 step process. I find it highly effective to remove contaminents from paint. It is a liquid with no abrasives and clearcoat safe. After cleaning the paint with that I usually just skip to a good carnuba wax which would be step #3 in the Meguiar's process.

I use it on everything. It even works on clear plastic like the front headlights to get the yellow out from sun damage. I've also used it on stained alloy wheels that have a clearcoat.
 

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so clay then wax or other way around?
 

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so i would wash the car first then clay it and then wax it or do i clay it wash it again and then wax it? sorry if this is a dumb question
 

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Some people wash-clay-wash-wax.
Personally I just wash-clay-wax.

In any case you must wash at least once before claying.
 
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