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Discussion Starter #1
and run at the track...

I'm curious as to what all you've taken out and how much did it drop your e.t.'s?

also... does anyone know how much the back 3 windows weigh in at? how much could be gained by replacing them with lexan, and what thickness is normally used? 1/8? 1/4? Are there any big drawbacks such as will it get scratched up really bad or be unstable (flap) at high speeds?
 

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I think it would depend on the power of the car. I've heard that 100lbs/10th formula before but I would think that 100lbs off a Celica would mean a lot more than 100lbs off a big block V8 drag car.

Lexan windows are fine if you want to just have a track car. They're illegal on the street, they suck at keeping cold or hot out/in, and they shake and wiggle a lot. Quite frankly I don't think I'd even consider doing lexan unless it was a hardcore drag car.

I'm curious about weight reduction too though. I know my car performs MUCH better with less weight.. I can tell a huge difference from when I'm carrying even a single passenger or stuff in my hatch, etc.
 

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Red01GTS said:
If I'm not mistaken, isn't 100lbs worth roughly a tenth in the 1/4 mile?
thats the old rule of thumb, but it changes the lighter the vehicle is and with the more weight you take off the vehicle.

in any rate mikes gone as fast as 8.9 with full interior with only an intake/pfc/dr's

gutted and raced out he's gone 8.8 (at the 1/8), and the car was capable of 8.7's with a clean run, for about 2 tenths faster at the 1/8 with gutted vs no gutted.

roughly translates to 2-3 tenths quicker down the 1/4. How much weight was taken off??

well his race weight was just a tad over 2360(not including driver)

those are our results.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the input, especially with the lexan windows... I haven't gutted my interior, and frankly I'm not at a point where I want to yet, but I was curious on what will happan when I do.

I also was really interested in the windows as of course they would be tinted heavily and hopefully if I could get a good job done not too terribly noticeable... but having something shaking and being super noisey would not make me too happy to drive it.
 

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I only ran once at the track as stock with only clutch and flywheel so I can't say how much my now gutted car helps. It certainly feels faster on the butt dyno and it definitely stops much quicker and corners better.

I rarely have to haul more than 2 people these days, and when I do they can't use my car haha. But seriously one advantage is that when you have no interior you don't have to worry about it getting messed up or dirty from whatever stuff you may haul...especially if you work with tools, construction or renovation work whether it be for business or your own house. If I get my floors dirty, I just unhook my neg bat term and use a little a water to wash the dirt/dust down through the drain plugs (which are under the carpet if you don't know hehe). That's how I washed away the sound deadening goo, after I took a hammer and chisel to it.
 

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10 whp made up the difference of 100 lbs weight reduction ;)

like illusive said I ran gutted and full interior with almost identical 60' times at the same track.

full interior - I/E/ pfc/ dr's - 8.954 2.05x 60'
gutted - I/E/dr's - 8.964 2.06x 60'

I had about 100 lbs of weight reduction and about 10 whp more on the full interior run.

the 8.8 1/8 mile was with a 2.11x 60' and I also traped 3 mph faster at the 1/8.
 

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Originally posted by Liqquid
Thanks for the input, especially with the lexan windows... I haven't gutted my interior, and frankly I'm not at a point where I want to yet, but I was curious on what will happan when I do.

I also was really interested in the windows as of course they would be tinted heavily and hopefully if I could get a good job done not too terribly noticeable... but having something shaking and being super noisey would not make me too happy to drive it.
check this place if you want it to be done professional, they have a celica kit

http://www.percyshp.com/speedglass_pages/speedglass_home.html
 

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took out spare and jack and dropped .2
 

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Zettai Unmei Mokushiroku
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Originally posted by QTRMLR_1
That's how I washed away the sound deadening goo, after I took a hammer and chisel to it.
I've heard cold weather + rear seat sound deadening + hammer = no more sound deadening. Is this correct, and is this how you removed yours?
 

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I did mine with a heat gun. also the rear hatch glass isnt as heavy as you think :( actually the whole hatch isnt all that heavy. there's about 45 - 55 lbs that can be saved though. total hatch weight is about 75 lbs (no wing) 80 with the wings west wing I have.

also lexan hates sunlight. if your car is left uncovered in the sun for any extended period of time, your lexan will need to be replaced. In cold weather it becomes very brittle and is prone to cracking.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Originally posted by 00silverGTS6spd

also lexan hates sunlight. if your car is left uncovered in the sun for any extended period of time, your lexan will need to be replaced. In cold weather it becomes very brittle and is prone to cracking.
:puke:

I'll stay full interior for now, this sounds like more excitement than I can handle lol
 

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Originally posted by KNanthrup
I can tell a huge difference from when I'm carrying even a single passenger or stuff in my hatch, etc.
True. I am constantly telling passengers "It usually doesn't lag like this when it is just me in here."
 

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I usually take out the rear seats, spare and jack...along with the carpet in the trunk/hatch area.

The rear seats are very easy to remove, 4 12mm bolts and some easy pulling will do it in about 10 minutes.
 

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Originally posted by Blue Bomber
I've heard cold weather + rear seat sound deadening + hammer = no more sound deadening. Is this correct, and is this how you removed yours?
don't have cold weather really ever...so just used wd-40, and I heard some people used dry ice and then cracked it with the chisel. or if you get natural ice where you live, I suppose you can just shovel it in haha.

I'm still unsure about the behind the dash weight reductions...well to be honest it's harder to take my dash off with the roll cage...so definitely do that first if you cage yourself.

I look up under my dash every now and then and don't see that much that can be pulled. I did notice the nice big steel bar much bigger than the side steel door beams which are tiny (and Toyota advertises them as a safety feature). Has anyone done the behind-the-dash weight reduction?
 

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Well lets see.

I ran a 14.726 stock with full interior minus spare.

Removed trunk plastics, rear plastics, rear seats, passenger seat and glove compartment. Maybe all that weighs 75lbs with most of it being the passenger seat.

Stock - 0.532 2.268 6.281 9.550 75.53 12.324 14.726 94.82

Stripped- 0.749 2.197 6.110 9.337 76.44 12.106 14.472 95.40

The day i ran stripped it was about 5 degrees hotter and 5% more humidity.
 

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Hey pet - what do you figure caused your change in 60 foot - was the track prepped better or just a better launch? Do you think that was the weight reduction or some other factor.
 

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Originally posted by Boosted2.0
Hey pet - what do you figure caused your change in 60 foot - was the track prepped better or just a better launch? Do you think that was the weight reduction or some other factor.
You know im not really sure. I think they may have sprayed that sticky stuff on the lanes that day.
 
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