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I had this happen on a rebuild and it cured itself after the engine ran and heated up to temp.
 

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But before I noticed all this, it was leaking coolant once I started the car. I didnt check if its actually the water pump, but I didn't have issues with it before I pulled it off.
So did you take yours off again and then put it back on or put some gasket marker along that area as a precautionary measure?
I just dont want to keep taking the cover off it's a pita
 

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No I didn't add anything or take anything apart. It stopped leaking on its own as soon as the engine got hot.
We installed a new water pump (with O-ring) and oil pump in the engine refresh.
 

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The only reason I noticed this is the car wasnt putting out hot air when I was trying to fill the coolant and I noticed it all spilled on the ground. It was almost at temp
 

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Did you elevate the fill reservoir and follow the coolant replacement instructions on the underhood sticker? They ensure the air is evacuated as the rad sits lower than the head.
Perhaps the drips you see are from a leaking hose clamp or a bolt needing another 1/4 turn tight.
 

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Yes, I did elevate the tank. First few fills, the tank emptied fairly quickly. Then I figured there was no air once the tank level didnt deplete approx 5 mins or so (revving in between). Temp gauge was just a smidge below half. But I turned the car off once I noticed there was no heat.
Unfortunately I didnt see where tgr coolant was spraying from. I am guessing with the water pump in operation that if there was a leak between the cover or anything that a larger volume of coolant would come out.

With all the stuff in the way it was hard to see unless I took the alternator and compressor out. But I only noticed drips.

I checked the lower rad hose as it was the only hose I removed and it's in there snug. Coolant doesnt seem to be running from it. I checked the hose from the t stat housing and it was untouched but no damages. I took the t stat out and make sure the seal was on properly and snug.

Am I tripping or?
 

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To fill the coolant and bleed the system, you have to leave the filled reservoir elevated (hang it under the hood with a bungee cord) until the thermostat opens (the fans will come on) and the bleed side of the reservoir (with the screw in valve) is full of flowing coolant (no air bubbles). Then let it cool and add more coolant.
Is the leak spraying or dripping? they are signs of two different issues.
 

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Unfortunately I didnt see it, all I saw coolant all over the floor. But right now I can see coolant constantly dripping from the timing cover.

If I put everything back in, it's hard to see because the alternator and condenser is in the way making it difficult.

Someone suggested that the water pump bolts needs some sort of thread lock (not loctite) similar to aviation sealer. Because its likely leaking from between the threads.
 

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Without taking it all apart, it's hard to diagnose. We did not use thread sealer on the water pump install.
Try taking the valve cover off and shining a flashlight down there to see if something obvious is showing inside the timing cover.
 

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Ok I can take it off again, it's a real process but I got half off so far. I will chip away at it later today when I get home and see how far I get. Below is how it was just before I put it back in.

Do you suggest to use gasket maker nearby the gasket its leaking from (left side)? Or it's not a good idea to have double the seal sort of speak

Ps the red rtv by ttr chain tensioner was from the previous owner. I replaced the oring
54203
 

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Ok, so I put some high temperature thread sealant on all the water pump bolts. And so far it seems to hold (I prefer not to rip everything apart to get to the cover. It's a last ditch effortt before I do take it apart.) Been about 30 mins. Rinsed of the engine bay to clean out any pink coolant. I am not seeing the drippage yet. It needs 4 works to fix itself in and another 24 hours to cure. Tomorrow morning I will check for coolant drippage and if nothing then in afternoon I will button her up and give it another go. At least with a clean engine bay I can see if anything else appears.
I will put some o clamps onto the rad hose as I had the spring clamp fail before.
I will update tomorrow.
 

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So I checked this morning and I am still seeing coolant dripping but doesnt seem to be as much as before. I work full time so I don't have many hours in the days. Should assemble everything and fire her up or take the timing cover off and put some gasket maker..

The other thing I was thinking is maybe the waterpump? It was fine before I took it off.
 

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I suggest you run the engine up to temp, burp all the air out/top up the coolant according to the proper procedure and see if the water pump seal seats properly to stop any small installation leaks that it may be suffering. If the pump shaft seal has crapped out, it will show itself as a steady drip when the engine is running.
If you have to take it apart again afterward, at least you will confirm what has been done to date. My 5 cents.
 

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Buttoned it up, ran the car, got all the air out, t stat opened, continued to drip between the waterpump and timing cover and the timing cover and block. After running it for about a half hour, I rinsed the area with water and 45 mins went by and no drip. Decided to take the car this morning, checked it and coolant dripping again. It almost seems like when the block et al gets got it stops, but when it cools it drips

I dont think it's the water pump yet because it's coming from two points. Like it's not enough pressure to squeeze everyone in. I got the bolt tight to 80 in/lbs plus a smidge.

Ideas?
 

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Without inspecting it, I can't offer any solution. You have to clearly identify the leak source to know what to do next.
 

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Thanks for being supportive dentman.
I haven't noticed but do you know where the weeping hole is on that waterpump?
 
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