[Zackbrands]

Did everyone else that has installed turbos install them from the passenger wheel well? Or did you come up from underneath?

Turbokits instructions say to install the assembled turbo/manifold as one, and to go in through the wheel well, but even with the subframe unbolted, and the axle out, there is not nearly enough room to get the assembled turbo/manifold in.

I ended up getting the manifold installed(by itself), then went to bolt the turbo on - that was a crappy idea, because now the 4 bolts that hold the turbo on are not accessible. so i am going to have to remove the manifold, and assemble the turbo/manifold while they are between the subframe and the engine..

I was able to get everything to sit in place where it needs to be (holding the turbo to the bolted on manifold) and the intake outlet is right up against the firewall, if i rotate the housing, then the wastegate rod doesnt line up with the flange...so its as close as i could get it, but still right up against the firewall...

Has anyone else run into these issues? if so, what was your course of action?

 

[woodrow00gts-t]

You need to clock the turbo before you bolt it to the manifold. Make sure it's clocked the right way so the oil lines are vertical and water lines are horizontal. It would be very bad to have your feed and drain ports in the wrong place...

 

[sdsu_celica01]

Wish I could help ya. We pulled the entire motor with my install.

 

[Zackbrands]

I did clock it. But the housings never changed their orientation with eachother. The center piece with all the oil/water lines attachrd is what rotated. Oil feed on top, drain on bottom. Coolant going side to side.

The rod that controls the wastegate is keeping the housing orientation the same.

 

[Zackbrands]

Wish I could help ya. We pulled the entire motor with my install.

wish I had the ability to do that. Unfortunately, it isnt an option.

 

[TurboKits.com]

I just double checked the installation manual. Where does it say you install the turbo and manifold through the wheel well? You install it underneath between the block and the subframe, you rotate the turbo through first and then rotate around 180 degrees as it passes through to allow the manifold to clear which also spins it to connect to the manifold studs. I have personally done this and it can be done as one unit with the axel removed and from underneath.

Did everyone else that has installed turbos install them from the passenger wheel well? Or did you come up from underneath?

Turbokits instructions say to install the assembled turbo/manifold as one, and to go in through the wheel well, but even with the subframe unbolted, and the axle out, there is not nearly enough room to get the assembled turbo/manifold in.

I ended up getting the manifold installed(by itself), then went to bolt the turbo on - that was a crappy idea, because now the 4 bolts that hold the turbo on are not accessible. so i am going to have to remove the manifold, and assemble the turbo/manifold while they are between the subframe and the engine..

I was able to get everything to sit in place where it needs to be (holding the turbo to the bolted on manifold) and the intake outlet is right up against the firewall, if i rotate the housing, then the wastegate rod doesnt line up with the flange...so its as close as i could get it, but still right up against the firewall...

Has anyone else run into these issues? if so, what was your course of action?

 

[Zackbrands]

I don't have the manual in front of me at the moment, but after talking to someone from turbokits yesterday about vacuum lines, he said he thinks I have an old manual.

the manual shows the turbo/manifold sitting assembled, then the next step says to bolt it to the engine. So it seems like there are some steps being skipped. Ill post the page from my instructions when I get a chance

 

[Zackbrands]

 

[dead_star04]

^^^^ looks like a pain in the ass! Wish I had that turbo though. Just have an old ktt1, but SSOOOO much more room in the mr2

 

[Zackbrands]

It is a pain..lol

BUT, totally worth it once I get it working, I have EVERYTHING else finished, so its too late to turn back.

 

[v3bahumut]

It will fit in as a unit from the bottom, you will have to put it in , then turn it then push and pull and there will be cussing involved as well.....but it will fit.

 

[Zackbrands]

there will be cussing involved as well.....but it will fit.

I laughed out loud at that. I think we made up some new cuss words because of this...

We are going to attempt to install the Turbo onto the Manifold - while both components are in between the subframe and the motor. Then install that assembled heapage to the engine.

PS v3bahumut - What are your wheel/tire specs?

 

[Zackbrands]

Also, Isn't the BOV, Wastegate, boost gauge line supposed to attach before the Throttle Body?

 

[TurboKits.com]

+1

It will fit in as a unit from the bottom, you will have to put it in , then turn it then push and pull and there will be cussing involved as well.....but it will fit.

Yes, you can assemble the turbo onto the manifold with it resting on the cross member. Either way will work. Definitely not through the wheel well. Thanks

I laughed out loud at that. I think we made up some new cuss words because of this...

We are going to attempt to install the Turbo onto the Manifold - while both components are in between the subframe and the motor. Then install that assembled heapage to the engine.

PS v3bahumut - What are your wheel/tire specs?

After, before will only read boost, you need a boost and vacuum source when running lines to the various turbo kit components.

Also, Isn't the BOV, Wastegate, boost gauge line supposed to attach before the Throttle Body?

 

[Zackbrands]

Sweet!

Thanks for all the good info. It cleared up a lot of questions!

So we got the turbo/manifold installed after assembling it on the subframe. The only thing left now is the front mount and the piping.

The outlet on the turbo is still angled strongly towards the firewall, to the point where if I stick the 2" coupler on there, its going to kink it. I am going to pick up an angled one and see if that helps. The only other concern is the placement of the air filter..seems vaulnerable.

Any suggestions about what to do with it?

Thanks again everyone for your help. Couldn't have done without. Thank!

 

[v3bahumut]

PS v3bahumut - What are your wheel/tire specs?

5Zigen fn01r-c 17x8 +35 Matte Black wrapped in BFGoodrich g-Force T/A KDW 2 235/40ZR-17

The outlet on the turbo is still angled strongly towards the firewall

You clocked it wrong then, the outlet should be facing pretty much straight up coming up behind the engine.

 

[Zackbrands]

You clocked it wrong then, the outlet should be facing pretty much straight up coming up behind the engine.

I tried to get it to where it needed to be, but the rod that connects the wastegate to the flap wont allow me to clock it that far. So its as far as it can go with that rod still being able to connect. I was able to get the center fittings where they need to be, but the inducer and exducer housings are tied together with that rod...

 

[v3bahumut]

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2266533/2001-toyota-celica/page-1#2266533_53

 

[Zackbrands]

Thats perfect! lol


I tried to get mine to sit like that, but it doesnt? Is that the Garrett T28rs?

 

[Zackbrands]

^nvm, read the rest of the page.

How did you get it to line up like that?

If i unbolt the Wastegate bracket, and rotated the housing that way, it ends up too far and faces the back of my engine..

So, where it is now is the best of the 2 options i can work with. And i bolted the exhaust on and all that already. So i think it is stuck like that for a while..the angled coupler fits perfect and there is no kinks or anything..