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Discussion Starter #1
The Tuned Innovations Groundwire Kit is the best kit our for the 7th Gen Celica GT/GT-S. It utilizes
the best possible grounding points with the shortest ground lines for maximum gains. Here is an install
that will help you make sense of all those wires.

<b>
**Caution, Team Celica, Tuned Innovations nor the authors of this install are liable for any problems
resulting in the use of the following information. Use this information at your own risk**

Tools Required:</b>

3/8" drive ratchet
socket extention
12mm Socket
10mm Socket
5mm allen Wrench
Flathead screwdriver
Groundwire Kit

<b>Allow engine to cool for a few hours before attempting this install.</b>

1) Disconnect both battery terminals before starting.

2) Remove Plastic Valve cover protector, and front left large engine cover (4 bolts,5 clips,
5mm allen(GT-S)). If You cant figure out how to do this, turn back.. cos it only gets harder (heh its
not really hard)



3) Remove the battery tie down, and remove the battery.



4) Remove the Large fuse box cover.



5) Remove the bolt that connects the ECU to the Fuse Box.



6) Remove the white battery tray, and the 4 bolts that hold the battery plate in place.



7) You need to unbolt this 5th bolt under the ECU and the wire harness clip shown. This may take some
manuevering of the ECU box to get to the bolt.



8) Now we are ready to begin the Wiring. In the pictures following, you will notice there are 8 numbered
ground points and 6 lettered wires. The wires should be matched as follows..
A=21" wire
B=8.5" wire
C=9.5" wire
D=26" wire
E=11.5" wire
F=11.5" wire

9) Connect wire A to ground point 2 (grounds the battery to the chassis).
Connect wire B to ground points 2 and 3 (grounds the tranny to the chassis).
Connect wire C to ground points 4 and 5 (grounds the block to the chassis).
Connect wire D to ground point 5. (grounds manifold and block)

* Note the auto trans point and manual trans point are slightly different, and in the manual trans pic
shows wire C grounded from points 5 to 3, but you want to use points 5 to 4 instead.





Here is a closeup of point 5, so you can tell which bolt to use.



10) Wire D will continue around the front of the manifold and connect to point 6. (tuck wire behind lines
and under fuel rail)



11) Wire E will connect from point 6 (above) to point 7 (grounds manifold to chassis). This is easiest
if you remove the Power sterring resevoir (push the metal clip in with a screwdriver, and pull up on the
resevoir)



12) Connect wire F to ground points 7 and 8 (grounds altenator to chassis).



Now reassemble everything in reverse order. You need to connect wire A to the negative battery terminal
(point 1) after you put everything back together.



You can hook it up as shown, or buy an aftermarket terminal to hook it to, and remove the stock negative
terminal alltogether



If you have any questions or comments email: <a href='mailto:[email protected]'>Tuned Innovations</a>. Enjoy

 

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First I installed an AEM pulley kit and a couple hours later I installed this kit, right after I installed it I noticed I was running rich, dont know if this is a good thing or not :shrugs:
 

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Has anyone upgraded the factory charging wires? If so can you give me some instructions? I'd like to upgrade both the power and ground at the same time.
 

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2000 Celica GT
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Yeah from your alternator positive to battery positive you will need about 4ft of 0 or 4 gauge wire, along with 2 ring terminals and an inline 120A fuse holder. Then from your negative to ground, you'll need a foot of 0 or 4 gauge and 2 ring terminals.
 

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In the original post, position number 8 is on the alternator. I'd like to ground that sucker but am concerned about that bolt. It's not the one you loosen to adjust the alternator on the belt, is it? Or am I stuck back in the 70s when you used crowbars to adjust the alternator's tension on a belt and the belt tensioner actually does that job now? :gap:
 

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Did some looking into belt replacement, etc. My assumption was that the alternator doesn't move and the tensioner does the work. So I unbolted that sucker, put the loop of the ground cable on, and bolted it back. Didn't seem to be any issue.
 

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8 is the alternator mounting bolt, the alternator does not pivot. The belt tensioner takes care of all tensioning duties.
 

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You're frickin' late the party, aren't you?
 
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