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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Ok, so that still narrows it down a bit. It might not be the engagement itself, but it does seem to need to already be engaged to make the noise, which tells me that it's not in the engine, but in the Clutch/Transmission. If you haven't already, do the test with the front wheels in the air, and listen very closely around the clutch housing. This might be a hail mary, but you might have damaged the dampers on the clutch disk, causing them to vibrate at the low RPM, otherwise, there may be a loose bracket in the vicinity.
I have considered that could be the issue, I just don't see how it would only make that noise at that RPM and never make noise otherwise. I think that is probably the worst case scenario at this point but really doubt it's that.
 

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I have considered that could be the issue, I just don't see how it would only make that noise at that RPM and never make noise otherwise. I think that is probably the worst case scenario at this point but really doubt it's that.
The dampers on the stock clutch are really delicate, and easily damaged by the shock from bad wheel hop. If you got it from trying to do a burnout, that makes even more sense because the stock set-up is well known for catastrophically failing from that force. It could be that one of the dampers is slightly loose and only rattles like that at low RPM because the vibrations are rougher.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
The dampers on the stock clutch are really delicate, and easily damaged by the shock from bad wheel hop. If you got it from trying to do a burnout, that makes even more sense because the stock set-up is well known for catastrophically failing from that force. It could be that one of the dampers is slightly loose and only rattles like that at low RPM because the vibrations are rougher.
I'll see if I can make a confirmation if that's at least where the noise is coming from. I think you're probably right, if it's the clutch making that noise, i'll probably just have to live with it, as it seems to be fairly minor. the clutch fork sticking out the front of the trans is smooth as butter at idle though. I did have the clutch in my matrix xrs fail catastrophically (the bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel sheered off....) but that was a shitty aftermarket clutch (i think it was for a 1zz), with re-used rusty bolts.... that clutch made a ton of noise before it broke though, and the fork was rattling up a storm lol....
 

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I'll see if I can make a confirmation if that's at least where the noise is coming from. I think you're probably right, if it's the clutch making that noise, i'll probably just have to live with it, as it seems to be fairly minor. the clutch fork sticking out the front of the trans is smooth as butter at idle though. I did have the clutch in my matrix xrs fail catastrophically (the bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel sheered off....) but that was a shitty aftermarket clutch (i think it was for a 1zz), with re-used rusty bolts.... that clutch made a ton of noise before it broke though, and the fork was rattling up a storm lol....
Yeah, my clutch made that grating noise for almost 5 years before I finally replaced it. I figured as long as it engaged correctly and didn't slip it was fine, and it was until it finally started slipping a 140k (not bad for OEM clutch). Clutch facing was GONE tho, I was shocked the thing even worked at all. As long as the noise doesn't suddenly get worse, you'll likely be able to just use it until it's actually done. Just avoid the wheel hop, at least until you get some poly inserts into your front and rear mounts. Those turn your wheel hop into wheel slip, keeping the clutch from taking the brunt of the force.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Yeah, my clutch made that grating noise for almost 5 years before I finally replaced it. I figured as long as it engaged correctly and didn't slip it was fine, and it was until it finally started slipping a 140k (not bad for OEM clutch). Clutch facing was GONE tho, I was shocked the thing even worked at all. As long as the noise doesn't suddenly get worse, you'll likely be able to just use it until it's actually done. Just avoid the wheel hop, at least until you get some poly inserts into your front and rear mounts. Those turn your wheel hop into wheel slip, keeping the clutch from taking the brunt of the force.
well Idk, it still could be the tensioner or something like that. It rained and the car is making a lot of noise, all coming from the belt area. Belt seems to be slipping for some reason, I think maybe it is just because the belt is... 16 years old. But I saw there is also a TSB for the tensioner, so IDK, should I replace both? or just replace the belt?
 

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well Idk, it still could be the tensioner or something like that. It rained and the car is making a lot of noise, all coming from the belt area. Belt seems to be slipping for some reason, I think maybe it is just because the belt is... 16 years old. But I saw there is also a TSB for the tensioner, so IDK, should I replace both? or just replace the belt?
Start with the belt, I highly recommend the Continental Elite Poly-V 4060763 (aka gatorback belt), but it looks like they've discontinued it so finding one may be tricky. If you're still getting noise, perhaps it is indeed the tensioner making a rattle when the engine is loaded by the transmission. It wouldn't be surprising for an already frail tensioner to get damaged from bad wheel hop too. If you do end up needing a tensioner, make sure you get one for a 2ZZ, since a lot of vendors sell 1ZZ ones as if they're the same. To be honest, looking at them I can't tell why they're not interchangable, but I'd stay on the safe side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
Start with the belt, I highly recommend the Continental Elite Poly-V 4060763 (aka gatorback belt), but it looks like they've discontinued it so finding one may be tricky. If you're still getting noise, perhaps it is indeed the tensioner making a rattle when the engine is loaded by the transmission. It wouldn't be surprising for an already frail tensioner to get damaged from bad wheel hop too. If you do end up needing a tensioner, make sure you get one for a 2ZZ, since a lot of vendors sell 1ZZ ones as if they're the same. To be honest, looking at them I can't tell why they're not interchangable, but I'd stay on the safe side.
I think I'm going to just order a OE tensioner and belt, worst case I can return the tensioner.
and

should be all I need, right? and those are correct, right? says 2005 celica GTS for both under fitment. The belt says it fits both though which is why I'm not 100% sure?

edit: actually the OE belt is backordered or something, I ordered the tensioner from another online parts dealer, should be here by next friday, belt said it would like 2-3 weeks so I just removed that. I am not sure what belt to get, rockauto has a bunch, including a gates belt that says its for "racing, performance and muscle"
Possibly worth getting that?

and the rest of the belts available from rockauto:
 

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I think I'm going to just order a OE tensioner and belt, worst case I can return the tensioner.
and

should be all I need, right? and those are correct, right? says 2005 celica GTS for both under fitment. The belt says it fits both though which is why I'm not 100% sure?

edit: actually the OE belt is backordered or something, I ordered the tensioner from another online parts dealer, should be here by next friday, belt said it would like 2-3 weeks so I just removed that. I am not sure what belt to get, rockauto has a bunch, including a gates belt that says its for "racing, performance and muscle"
Possibly worth getting that?

and the rest of the belts available from rockauto:
You likely won't need that Gates RPM belt, the stock Celi won't be pushing anywhere near the amount of power it's made to take. Gates should have a normal belt for cheaper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
You likely won't need that Gates RPM belt, the stock Celi won't be pushing anywhere near the amount of power it's made to take. Gates should have a normal belt for cheaper.
I bought a continental belt from autozone. Going to put it in tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 · (Edited)
actually I put it in just now, the squealing stopped but there is a noise that seems to be coming from the tensioner. I put a stethoscope right on the tensioner arm and it seems like its almost certainly coming from the tensioner. it's not really very loud but its a bit odd, not sure what is going on. I spun all the pulleys by hand and they all seemed normal at least to me. car ran fine, maybe the belt just needs to break in? as far as i can tell its centered on all the pulleys. It's also possible that some of the fluid film undercoating got onto the belts / pulleys while i was slipping it on.

54835


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old belt wasn't terrible but the backside was fairly slick
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If it will do it standing still & revving, take the belt off & see if it still does it. That will narrow it down a little.
^^^^^
Will tell ya if it is belt/tensioner related. You can do a quick drive w/o the alternator running if it only does it under load.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
tensioner is still making noise, hard to really hear it over the engine but it's definitely from the tensioner, probably just the pulley but I'm going to just replace the whole tensioner assembly. original issue with the low rpm rattle is 100% gone though.
 

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tensioner is still making noise, hard to really hear it over the engine but it's definitely from the tensioner, probably just the pulley but I'm going to just replace the whole tensioner assembly. original issue with the low rpm rattle is 100% gone though.
Good to hear it wasn't your clutch after all! Good luck with the new tensioner.
 
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I have two GTS roadworthy Celicas that both make the same buzzing sound, but between 3200-3500 rpm. My stethoscope narrowed the sound down to the VVT assembly on the intake cam. Not sure what is going on, but the cars both drive fine and have for several years. And I drive on...
So recently my Celi started making a similarly awful rattle/buzz between 1500-2500rpm. At first, it was seemingly dependant on if I'm engine breaking or not, but it would at times keep going even after sinking the clutch until you'd hear kind of like a "catch" noise and the noise stops. At first I believed it to be the tensioner since it wasn't an OEM one, and it was showing obvious signs of failure. Well, fast forward a bit, and one day I start the engine and the rattle/buzz was CONSTANT right from ignition. It turned out that my crankshaft pulley had also failed and came apart at the rubber, causing the belt to start slipping off the tensioner and rattling it from side to side (it's not supposed to have ANY side-side play). Well, after changing both the tensioner and crankshaft pulley with brand new OEM parts, the engine started and idled perfectly fine with no strange noises, but as soon as I started driving I heard the same rattle/buzz from before, except it was even worse now! :mad:

It was still specific to that 1500-2500rpm range, but the engine in general sounded a bit noisier, yet it ran even better than before. At speed, you wouldn't even know anything was wrong with the engine, but as soon as a engine break back down, the noise came right back until it "caught" and went away. So, at this point I narrowed the noise down to either my VVT solenoids or VVT controller since I had a P1693 code pop-up and go away, and just recently my Celi lost Lift. I have ordered the new solenoids and will be reporting back here if it solves my issue, if not I worry that I may need to do camshaft work to remedy this noise.
 
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