[tegan1110]

Ok, when my dad gave me his 2001 gen 7 it only had one working alarm fob. This has served me well until my keys AND alarm fob took a trip through the washer-dryer.

Now I can get into my car with the key but this triggers the alarm and the immobiliser prevents me starting the engine.

My questions are as follows:

1. What can I do (if anything) short term to make the car work?

2. Longer term, whats the simplest most cost effective way to make the car and its security system work the way it was intended?

Thank you all in advance... cant wait to drive my beloved Celi again!

Ps its a uk 140 with premium pack 2001 gen 7 celica!

 

[Jack GTS]

I'd say just go into the car and then disconnect the battery for a few minutes to reset the ECU. Long term probably need a new fob which can be found on Ebay for cheap prices.

 

[tegan1110]

I'd say just go into the car and then disconnect the battery for a few minutes to reset the ECU. Long term probably need a new fob which can be found on Ebay for cheap prices.

Would starving the ECU of power result in me being able to start my car using only the key?

Other sources suggest that the immobiliser will still be active even after battery disconnected and reconnected. :monkey:

 

[Jack GTS]

I really don't know because I've never run into this problem lol. I would see the logic behind it not disabling the immobilizer, but it's worth a try since no one else has responded yet.

 

[2way]

Factory replacement key. New fob.

FYI, USDM Celicas don't have the Immobilizer. In the NATO/EURO models that have it, the key is mated to the ECU and the ECU is not programmable (from my understanding).

 

[Celicasaur]

^^^ this.

Either a new ignition barrell, key and ecu - or a new key from the main dealer.
Either that or your key might mysteriously start working again and disarm the immobiliser.

The battery trick won't work for this problem I'm afraid.

Oddly enough I've had a similar problem where the key wouldn't unlock the car/disarm the immobiliser, no matter how much I pressed it or fettled with batteries etc....and then randomly, the next day, it just worked at the first attempt. This has happened a few times during my ownership of the car (long intervals between each one and it's not a key fob battery problem) but never managed to find a reason why. Supposedly having metal coins/change in the cup holders would cause interference and trigger the problem, but I'm not convinced.

Either way, good luck my friend.

 

[sup092]

Factory replacement key. New fob.

FYI, USDM Celicas don't have the Immobilizer. In the NATO/EURO models that have it, the key is mated to the ECU and the ECU is not programmable (from my understanding).

So I have a 99 euro 1zz celica
I have a euro 2zz(facelift) swap with ecu not installed AND NO KEY

What to do? buy a us ecu ?

 

[2way]

If you get an Euro one, get the ign key cylinder & keys that mate to the ECU.

 

[sup092]

If you get an Euro one, get the ign key cylinder & keys that mate to the ECU.

To late, I have the swap already and no key. whats my best choice?

 

[2way]

Je bent geschroefd!

My guess is your options are probably:
Getting key cylinder & keys from Toyota - $$$$
PowerFC - $$$
Non-immobilizer ECU - $$

 

[sup092]

Je bent geschroefd!

Hahah, had ik al ff door...

Will a pre facelift (rev lim) usdm 2zz ecu do his job in my euro?
Or is it not recommended?

I have a facelift 2zz swap--> goes into pre facelift 1zz car.
Both euro.

 

[2way]

A USDM ECU should work. You just have to figure out which rev limit/knock sensor you want to go with. You'll find the info you need over in the 2ZZ swap stickies. I do seem to recall someone in Europe finding an appropriate ECU locally.