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:money::newbie:Hi, newbe here but I also have ocv closed malfunction code that pops up when ever I push the motor over 6500 rpm does anyone know what causes this and how do I fix it?
I have a 2000 Celica GTS. This is my first post and I really appreciate any information that some of the knowledgeable guys might be able to pass along.
 
:money::newbie:Hi, newbe here but I also have ocv closed malfunction code that pops up when ever I push the motor over 6500 rpm does anyone know what causes this and how do I fix it?
I have a 2000 Celica GTS. This is my first post and I really appreciate any information that some of the knowledgeable guys might be able to pass along.
I had the same exact problem. The way I was able to correct it was by replacing the Oil Control Valve Lift filter. This is the one on the side by the battery. Mine was super dirty and clogged up. It was a pain to get out since I had never replaced it and it was so clogged up with gunk.
 
I bought my first 2zz-ge powered car a few days ago on a whim. It came with a few simple CEL codes, that I was able to clear quickly - replace thermostat, replace spark plugs. and away went P0128 and P0301. Then on my first test drive where I pushed it over 6,000 RPM nothing happened, no acceleration, no boost, and back on came the CEL: P1693! That's what brought me here.

This DIY is a godsend!

I grumbled a little bit about having to remove the alternator again, after removing it the day before for the thermostat. I struggled a little bit pulling the vacuum pipe - until I figured out to grab it at the flange with big old pair of hose pliers for leverage. Then the VVT OCV came out like a charm, looking fairly clean. The oil strainer/filter slipped right out once its covering bolt was removed, also looking clean. Sprayed everything own with carburetor cleaner, and shot CC into the cavities, then put it all back together. Total time for this job one hour.

Next the VVL OCV. Followed the DIY instructions, except for one little detail: on my engine (ZE133) the OCV has to come out of its housing before the top bolt of the housing can be turned. No biggie. With wiring harnesses and vacuum hoses out of the way, the OCV popped right out. This one was filthy. Disgusting. Caked with oil crud. The housing cavities were no better. And the little strainer was completely plugged. Be advised that this strainer has an integrated flat spring clip on the bottom. It takes a little jolt to pop it out, then it has to be popped back into place. The oil passages going into the head were also completely plugged. I picked the crud out with pick. I got everything as clean as I could, then put it back together. Total time one hour, with the better part of an entire can of carb cleaner used.

Test drive results: at 6,200 RPM the car just leapt forward. I scared myself. And no more P1693.

Thank you again!

On de-briefing I am surprised at the difference in condition between the VVT OCV and its VVL counterpart. I'm not sure why one end of the engine is more susceptible to crud than the other. Distance from the oil pump? Tellingly, the oil pressure sender is mounted right on the VVL housing. So someone must have anticipated this.

Oh yeah, there's a funny part that I almost left out: Before starting the job, I did make a phone call to the parts desk of a fairly well known supplier, to inquire about pricing and availability of the OCVs, in case they were needed. Even with the VIN in hand, the gentleman there tried to convince me that my car had only one OCV, not two. He sounded so certain, that had I not seen both of them with my own eyes, I would have believed him. On my car (ZE133 production date 05/2002) the two OCV's are identical and stamped with the same part number.

Aloha, from Maui.
 
I have another note to anyone who tries cleaning but still does not get lift. It is from this paper, Development of the High Speed 2ZZ-GE Engine, provided by the engineers at Toyota Motor Corp.

"Lock Pin Durability
– The lock pin does not slide under
the high speed follower within 1 camshaft revolution.
When the overlap of the lock pin and follower is still small,
the pin can get kicked back. This will cause a slight wear
of the corners of lock pin and follower, increasing the
chances for the kick back to occur. When the average of
the wears of the lock pin and follower exceeds a given
value, the lock pin will always be kicked back, and the
valve lift will not switch to high."

This means eventually, with enough wear, bye bye lift for good. I can't think of overhauling the lift mechanism, so the solution is most likely replace the rocker arms. Just my opinion. What do I know.

Aloha, from Maui.
 
So I got a02 gts and it just got the vvtl I controller or gear replaced. Was running good but all of a sudden lost power in high rpms and check engine light came on. Now I don't have that extra vvtl I power after 6300???
 
Intermittent lift

My problem is the same like mendacious2's. My celica chokes before engages lift (weak lift). But now I don't have lift anyway, just a rev limit at 7k. New lift bolts, cleaned VVTLI OCV filter, but not the valve. And uncleaned VVTI filter yet. Any suggestions? I hope it's the valve, or maybe a not right oil type. Thanks!
 
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