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Walkthrough: Front Wheel Bearing Replacement on a ZZT231 w/o ABS **w/ Pictures**

26K views 18 replies 16 participants last post by  vegeta4ss 
#1 ·
Front Wheel Bearing Replacement

By hyoctane


Car: 2001 Toyota Celica GT-S (ZZT231), 6-Speed (C60), w/o ABS.

Mileage: 84,XXX miles

Parts Required: 30mm 12 point locking axle nut, radial ball bearing (front passenger/drivers side) and a cotter pin (again, one per side.) These parts can be purchased at your local Toyota dealership parts department for under $40.00.

Minimum Tools Required: Jack, jack stands, wheel chocks, breaker bar, Pittman arm puller set, ratchets, torque wrench, 30mm or 1 3/16
 
#5 ·
I was just asking the other day about how this install would be done. Good work Hyoctane very detailed and easy to understand.

if someone does have those parts #'s for just the bearing LMK.
 
#10 ·
I'd like to make an addition if ya don't mind. I just finished doing this on my 00 GTS that has ABS. The only difference is that you have to unbolt the ABS sensor (10mm) from the knuckle, and set it aside. Part numbers for the bearings are the same.

One thing that makes this easier - instead of hitting the axle with a hammer, go rent a 3 jaw puller from autozone. Put the jaws around the hub and the center part on the axle. Tighten down and the knuckle pops right off. Saved me a huge headache.

Also, impact tools make this task MUCH easier.

For future reference, can someone find a part number for that snap ring? mine were old and crusty but I managed to reuse them.
 
#19 ·
how to finish this using a press

Here's how to finish this install.

Go buy this kit from harbor freight


You'll have a hub and a spindle if you followed the above HyOctane guide.


You need to remove the outer race from the spindle. I used a cut off wheel and carefully cut and eventually cracked the race open with a chisel/hammer. If you have access to a gear puller then you can tighten it down between the bottom of the race and the spindle and use the press to push them apart.


Now you press out your old bearing. Use the gray plate from your kit. Sit it down directly on top of the ball bearings inside the wheel bearing. I started with two blocks underneath because I just wanted to get the old bearing moving at first.


Once bearing is moving you add spacers under hub and push bearing the rest of the way out. If you can't get it this way then use the aluminum handle that came in your kit along with a big hammer and a vise. You should be able to knock it the rest of the way out with that setup.


clean bearing surface inside the hub with an emory cloth then lightly grease.

open new wheel bearing and take to press along with hub. Flip the hub over because you press the new bearing in from the back side. There's a lip built into the hub that the bearing bottoms out against. Once you know you have it centered drive it all the way in. Use the blue plate for this.


Now install your snap ring on the back side of the hub. Make sure you get it all the way in against the bearing. Then install your dust shield and tighten the 3 torx t30 screws.

It should look like this now


Set up your press as shown with the two support plates and the two press plates in a stack. Your going to set your new hub and wheel bearing on top of this so you can support the bottom side of your new bearing while you press in the spindle.



take the spindle and hub to the press. Position the hub so that the press plates are fully supporting the bottom of your new bearing. Now press in the spindle. When you bottom out then check the back of the bearing to ensure everything is flush.



Now just put it back on your car and go for a drive to make sure it's good to go. Have your alignment checked. Hope this info helps somebody.
 
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