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i have read that celicas can only handle about 6-8 psi safely continuously, what exactly would you need to have done to run about 15 16 17 pounds of boost?
what you need to run more boost
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forged internals, bigger fuel pump, tranny work etc..
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Step 1 - read this link (all of it and the sub links): http://www.newcelica.org/forums/showthread.php?t=199226
You talking GT or GTS? What turbo? What power level?
I would reccomend a fully built bottom end (sleeves, rods, low compression pistons, bearings, ARP studs), water and methanol injection, huge intercooler, IK27 plugs, Much bigger injectors (what size depends on the turbo), standalone, fuel pump, upgraded HD clutch, etc.
depending on the turbo and power level these reccomendations will change slightly
You talking GT or GTS? What turbo? What power level?
I would reccomend a fully built bottom end (sleeves, rods, low compression pistons, bearings, ARP studs), water and methanol injection, huge intercooler, IK27 plugs, Much bigger injectors (what size depends on the turbo), standalone, fuel pump, upgraded HD clutch, etc.
depending on the turbo and power level these reccomendations will change slightly
Every time there's a turbo question from a newbie..... that link gets thrown. Mostly by you, Boosted 
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I was probably one of the very few people here who actually read the whole thing and all the sub links. Good information but by the end of the whole thing, your in information overloaduke:
.I was probably one of the very few people here who actually read the whole thing and all the sub links. Good information but by the end of the whole thing, your in information overload
uke:FITGT said:
The thing you have to consider is that the car wouldn't be up and running very long under those conditions, unless you have done internals and other upgrades. I think they got the GT to about 350 whp or more until the tranny failed.
What is the estimated life of an unbuilt boosted engine around 300whp?
30k if lucky or something?
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GT rods have failed as low as 250 HP. GTS hasn't had rod failures but the ring lands tend to blow during a lean burn or detonation event. MWR failed them at 400 or so.
I would say anything over 300 to the tire on a great tune for 2ZZ is going to be a bit iffy - it might live a while, but you would have to watch your AF ratio gauge like a hawk, and a JNS safegaurd + water injection would be a must.
You're better off building the 2ZZ bottom end over 300 HP IMO, and for that matter you're not wasting your money if you do it for less power than that.
I would say anything over 300 to the tire on a great tune for 2ZZ is going to be a bit iffy - it might live a while, but you would have to watch your AF ratio gauge like a hawk, and a JNS safegaurd + water injection would be a must.
You're better off building the 2ZZ bottom end over 300 HP IMO, and for that matter you're not wasting your money if you do it for less power than that.
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with water / alcohol, standalone with conservative timing, J&S safeguard, and proper air fuel ratios you should be just fine.jlitman said:
Yep. That's why I went with an MWR Stage 3 shortblock. Between the sleeves, forged pistons, main studs, head studs and upgraded bearings, it really is quite a stout engine. If time isn't an issue, you might want to get a set of custom 10:1 pistons like I did, as you can really up the boost.Boosted2.0 said:
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