Does anyone know where to find a 12psi pulley for the MP62 Greddy Supercharger?? I would've guessed that Greddy's website would've had something posted, but there was nothing what-so-ever. Thanks guys
Crash GT-S
Ronin and I both had them custom made.
According to my boost gauge, the one I am currently using makes an average of ~11 psi max, but I've logged over 12 on my WI datalogger. I'm planning on going up to ~14 psi with the next pulley.
I definitely wouldn't do this without some form of intercooling.
According to my boost gauge, the one I am currently using makes an average of ~11 psi max, but I've logged over 12 on my WI datalogger. I'm planning on going up to ~14 psi with the next pulley.
I definitely wouldn't do this without some form of intercooling.
It should be okay -- but it will be close.Gravel said:
Let's go with Boosted's borderline "danger zone" of 275 whp. On an MT, that would mean something like 320 motor (bhp) based on observed drivetrain losses from MT dynos at the shop I use.
I'm putting down 212ish. Add another 35 to run the blower, and that's 247. Add in calculated drivetrain losses based on my own baseline dyno from back in the day and we have ~ 311 motor. Another couple psi should bring me to the brink, but hopefully not beyond it.
MWR made waaaaay more than that before they hurt anything :shrugs:
Of course, I wouldn't be planning on this without the water injection to supress detonation... but please, somebody stop me if it sounds like I'm about to grenade my motor :chuckles:
Actually, as I understand it, water-alky injection is more effective than an intercooler in terms of supressing detonation, and some race cars have used W/I for very high boost applications without traditional intercooling.Archer2KGTS said:
Of course, if the system ever fails or I neglect to keep the tank filled KABOOOOOOOOOOOOOM! :AF:
Well, I wish you the best of luck - I don't know that I'd be happy to have a 15lb, pencil sharpner whirring away at 16,000 rpm two feet away from my left testicle - but they are your cohonesjlitman said:
You might also need ear plugs - that s/c is going to be working damn hard - you might end up sounding like that DeLorean in Back To The Future
Ha ha ha! Well, we know the blower can withstand it based on Ronin, who is using an even smaller pulley than I'm planning on. As to the motor -- admittedly, that's a bit more iffy, but again, I should be right at the brink without going over.Gravel said:Well, I wish you the best of luck - I don't know that I'd be happy to have a 15lb, pencil sharpner whirring away at 16,000 rpm two feet away from my left testicle - but they are your cohonesjlitman said:
You might also need ear plugs - that s/c is going to be working damn hard - you might end up sounding like that DeLorean in Back To The Future
After that, there's always credit cards...
Seriously tho', were talking MAYBE 14 psi at peak for a fraction of a second with direct port water injection to supress any det. Right now, I'm not even pulling any timing -- I have plenty of room to dial this in safely. Also, I can probably tweak the boost up or down with vvti tuning -- especially once I get the vmanage, which can tune vvti and vvl by RPM and load.
EDIT: Wait -- I think my math is off... If I am making ~322 motor, and THEN subtract 35 to run the blower that gives me 287 hp.
287 - 26% estimated drive train loss = just over 212 whp.
Uh oh... am I already at the brink?
2 more psi would probably give me another 16 or so motor...
Hmmm... no replies.
I just took another look at MWR's thread on their (initially) stock motor, and they exceeded 350 (EDIT) whp before breaking ring lands...
Just wondering, but where did Boosted get 250-275 whp from? Seems to me that based on MWR's testing on a decent tune, at least 300 wheel could be deemed "safe". :shrugs:
Again -- on a good, well monitored tune
Thoughts? Rebuttals? Warnings?
I just took another look at MWR's thread on their (initially) stock motor, and they exceeded 350 (EDIT) whp before breaking ring lands...
Just wondering, but where did Boosted get 250-275 whp from? Seems to me that based on MWR's testing on a decent tune, at least 300 wheel could be deemed "safe". :shrugs:
Again -- on a good, well monitored tune
Thoughts? Rebuttals? Warnings?
I was thinking your power calculations were ass-backwards, but I wasn't sure enough to say anything!
Well Jiltman, as you know, the candle that burns twice as bright burns half as long, and your candle is going to requre sunglasses pretty soon!
Do you have a spare car incase this one goes pop - MWR were trying to test to destruction after all. I do admire your 'there's always credit-cards' attitude - it works for me too, but I am also very well aware just how painful a month without a car would be - don't pop it unless you've got a spare!
If you are going to live on the ragged edge, I would guess you're going to need even more monitoring - what's your intake air temp, do you know that your W/I is pumping what it claims etc... It might give you 1s of warning to save your engine, or if you're datalogging, it might tell you what not to do to avoid blowing another engine...
If I had your power level, I would be seriously considering beefing up the internals - but as labour is
Well Jiltman, as you know, the candle that burns twice as bright burns half as long, and your candle is going to requre sunglasses pretty soon!
Do you have a spare car incase this one goes pop - MWR were trying to test to destruction after all. I do admire your 'there's always credit-cards' attitude - it works for me too, but I am also very well aware just how painful a month without a car would be - don't pop it unless you've got a spare!
If you are going to live on the ragged edge, I would guess you're going to need even more monitoring - what's your intake air temp, do you know that your W/I is pumping what it claims etc... It might give you 1s of warning to save your engine, or if you're datalogging, it might tell you what not to do to avoid blowing another engine...
If I had your power level, I would be seriously considering beefing up the internals - but as labour is
Fair enough - as you said, the time/cost of fixing an engine vs building one in the hope that it doesn't break aren't that far apart, and I suppose an engine failure would provide some interesting data...
Do you really think you'll be happy with an extra 20HP though - I reckon that'd keep you happy for a week at most
Happy Boosting and good luck!
Do you really think you'll be happy with an extra 20HP though - I reckon that'd keep you happy for a week at most
Happy Boosting and good luck!
Realistically, it won't even be 20 to the wheels -- it will be 20 to the engine. That means, after losing power to turn the blower and spin the torque converter, it will add maybe another 10-12 whp. Maybe more, maybe not, but it all remains to be seen.Gravel said:Fair enough - as you said, the time/cost of fixing an engine vs building one in the hope that it doesn't break aren't that far apart, and I suppose an engine failure would provide some interesting data...
Do you really think you'll be happy with an extra 20HP though - I reckon that'd keep you happy for a week at most
Happy Boosting and good luck!
Will I be happy with it? A little happier, yes. 225 whp or bust!
After this, all my extra money is being saved for the eventual release of the production version of the FT-HS.
So... do you agree that another 20 to the motor / 10-12 wheels should be safe, provided I have a good tune and the W/I is operational?Boosted2.0 said:
Also, do you think the max "safe" whp should be more like 275-300 whp rather than 250-275, based on MWR? According to them, they discovered engine damage beating the hell out of it on track and dyno at around 350-400 whp :shrugs:
GTsRasta said:Just invest in a 6 speed swap alreadyyyyyy
:nono:jlitman said:
BTW, based on XAT's dyno for MT GT-Ss, if we assume my second round of estimates are about right, with a 6-speed I'd be around 235-241 whp (i.e., +23 to 29 ponies).
For the cost, downtime and aggrvataion of gathering the parts and doing the swap, I'd sooner build the engine, sell the S/C, buy a scary turbo (Smaay? MWR?), and start all over again, which would net me a whole lot more power, and I'd still have a free hand to molest my girl's tits and snatch while driving
GTs Rasta what the hell do you know about superchargers or turbos ?..You start talkin crap on Eat Me about my setup but you don't have a freakin clue about any of this...do you have a supercharger or a turbo on any car ? If you want to feel like a know it all jump over to www.monkeytuner.com and show us what you got....or better yet get your facts straight......
Jlitman stop at 12psi with a stock block, it's not worth the down time if it all goes bad...as to the scoring of my #1cylinder who knows when that happened at 8.5, 10.5 or was it 12psi no telling.....point is I caught it before anything bad could happen.....Trust me you don't want the down time...I had all of the parts waiting in my garage waiting and I still had to tear it all out a second time and do a 800mi turn around to Comptech to fix the screw up with the Mahle pistons from monkey whench after the piston to valve contact and then everyone passing the buck onto the other guy and me in the middle just wanting to get back on the road.......stop now and cruise for babes.
Frank, thanks for responding -- your opinion on all of this means a lot to me :thumbup:the ronin said:
I re-read your thread on going beyond 12 psi the other night -- I had misremembered whether the #1 cyl went before or after the Mahles were added, and was a little disconcerted when I saw it was a stock piston that failed. I also see that you are running lower comp pistons now as well -- admittedly, discovering this makes me feel a bit more iffy about things... :ugh:
That said, I do have the garden hose -- four of them actually to protect things. That makes a HUGE difference.
Thanks to the WI, I'm running stock timing and have AFR's around 11.8-12.5 up top, and both the ECU and the engine are happy. My compression was ~205 on all 4 cyls last time I checked (and this was after running 9+ psi all the time pre-W/I), and the car runs very smoothly.
My point is, presently there's still room to enrichen the fuel mixture, increase the water spray, and pull back the timing to accomodate more boost!
Keeping all of that in mind, do you still think 2 more psi will grenade the motor? If so, I may just abort the next experiment... :hide:
I can predict what will happen if you continue to up the boost. It'll go like this---Holy #hit WTF is all that smoke from,,,#@#k.....The guys at Lotus Motor Sports have been runing at 14psi with A/W intercooling and have not been able to qualify for one race this season due to piston failure [stock pistons]......I'd say they know how to tune this sucker.......this aint my first supercharger [Lancia Delta S4, 2 boats built big blocks, blown SSR, 700hp AMG 55 CLS] you can only stretch the rules not break them.....Down time sucks big.........I would stay at 10psi with W/I and enjoy as long as your runnin stock parts....oh yeah cruise for babes.
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
